We need to start with some basics before we can get deeper into your issues.
1. I like to see 2 files when working on a system.
The data LOG and the BLM.
So when you open the winaldl, I like to click the data logger and drag the box to the side.
I click the Dash button and drag it to the side.
I click the BLM tab and on the bottom right I toggle to Wide Avg.
Before I turn the key on, I disconnect batt and then reconnect to clear any error codes and the fuel correction memory.
Then turn key on and start the engine. You should then click data logger start button. It will record the entire time the key is on but may not continue if the engine dies and is restarted due to the power drop during cranking.
Any time the key is on there should be a blinking green 20 in the box in the center of the screen.
If it goes red you are not getting all the data from the ECM.
I leave the BLM wide avg page open while driving and drive it until all the boxes from idle to 3000rpm are filled except for the 20 and 100KPA columns.
Once the logging is done, you click stop on the data logger and at the same time, you click save table in the bottom of the BLM tab page.
This will now provide 2 files for me to look at.
2. Initial set up.
Your system has many, many problems and error codes.
Using the dash display or the sensor data tab you need to check the readings of each sensor.
On the sensor page, ignore the RAW column, that is hexadecimal and means nothing.
The converted columns will give voltage and
percent or C* and F*
Your TPS is way out of spec. -6.1% BAD
if your min idle screw plug is removed then the throttle blade angle needs to be set first.
It is located on front drivers side of throttle body.
Back out until the screw just touches arm.
Turn in 1 full turn.
Throttle blade must be set prior to TPS.
Then remove the TPS and drill out the holes to 1/4"
install and then turn key on and adjust to 0.2%/.55v on the dash or sensors page.
DO NOT MOVE from this base setting unless told to do so.
CTS-coolant temp should match outside temp before engine start and rise as engine warms up.
You were at ~190*
O2- will read ~.450mv with key on even if the O2 is disconnected.
If it's good, it should rise to ~600mv to be considered good for closed loop.
At that time the ECM will dither the fueling up and down to keep the cats burning and the O2 will go from 0-1v
Yours was .451 and never changed. BAD
There's no difference between 1 wire and 3 wire other than a heater to allow it to heat up faster for a quicker closed loop.
This is good for engines with headers where the O2 is more than 18" from the engine where it may cool down faster in winter driving. Not sure what Harris has to do with this?
Are you working with other people on your issues?
If so, I will back out. I don't like working against others.
Factory used a 3 wire on many models.
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MAP-Manifold pressure read in KPA/most think of it as manifold vacuum which is in/hg.
key on at sea level should be about 100kpa, idling depending on cam can be 30-50kpa.
wide open-100kpa, decel-20kpa
Speed/VSS- should match vehicle speed. used for IAC operation affecting idle/decel/wot, affects trans shifting, emissions operation/EGR.
Knock-used primarily for emissions. If bad will cause ECM to retard timing up to ~10*. If the counts go up in the table, it's retarding the timing.
IAC-on a fulling heat saturated engine, like when you come back from a drive, the IAC counts should be just above 0. Normally around 5-10 and will go up when you add a load like AC or put in drive.
BUT, the number is only what the ECM wants it to be and NOT where the IAC is actually at.
BLM/long term fuel trim-should be ~128
There will be no reading when at WOT/PE-power enrichment, so you normally won't have reading in the 100kpa column.
Based on your log you had the following errors.
24-VSS
13-O2
42-ICM/EST
34-MAP
These need to be cleared, all adjustment and repairs completed and then do another complete data log with BLM.
