First real drive! Not tragic but not good. I think I need carb advice.

Finally took it for another drive!

So Second drive - way better than the first!

I actually made it to the gas station and got gas.

AND new problem list.
* I was thinking my temp gauge wasn't working - It eventually did start working when I turned the car off. I need to inspect my thermostat, it may not even be there.
* Speedometer isn't working. The cable for it plugs into the transfer and seems ok, but it's a little leaky.
* Since I've had the motor running, the transfer case has been leaking a little (small puddle).
* Braking feels pretty weak. I was hoping the discs would clean up with a little use but they still feel pretty rough. But it does stop.
* I'm not sure if it ever shifted into 3rd. (Turbo 350 trans) The engine was getting a little wound out. I can't say how fast since I had no speedo.
* oh yeah, when I went to pump gas it would just fill up the hose and then click off. When I'd take the nozzle out it would spit a lot of it back out. I'm thinking the breather tube may be clogged or maybe has a broken check valve. If I held the nozzle cover with my hand I could fill it fine (without sealing the filler opening).

Anyway, I'm all ears if any of this sounds familiar.

How hard is it to rebuild an NP203 transfer case?

I think I'd like to have a tach and maybe put it where the brake warning light is.

New projects!

Your fuel tank is not venting properly that is why you can't fill it. Did you plumb the vacuum like original using the vacuum diagram?

Do you have the vacuum modulator connected on the transmission? Is it any good?

Same thing for your vacuum advance on the distributor. Old vacuum diaphrams get hard with age so while it might hold vacuum it may not be moving. Make sure your PCV system is working. Otherwise you engine will push oil out of every gasket and seal.

Just reading this entire thread it seems like you are not only trying to fix a disaster, you really do not know much about cars. We all started somewhere and I admire you for sticking with this and not giving up.

Personally, I would have fixed the original carb, re-plumbed the vacuum lines, found an HEI distributor and went that route. With the aftermarket, universal carb just because it is running does not mean it is set up properly. You need to get your ignition and vacuum stuff sorted first. Then you get it running the best you can. Once you do that, fit a fresh set of plugs and take it for a good drive. After the drive pull all the plugs and read them. This will tell you if the jetting is good, etc.

As far as rebuilding the transfer case, you probably do not need to do a full rebuild. Most likely you have seal leaks. With a truck that age your yokes probably have a groove worn where the seal rides. You need to use a redi-sleeve on them or replace them. Cheaper to go the sleeve route. I just did this with my NP205. It was leaking for years. My truck was my Dad's since 1988. I got it back from my brother last year and am restoring it. I had to use a couple of sleeves.

On this topic - someone in my area was selling two transfer cases from an old Blazer, 1 good and 1 for parts for $100.

edgephoto said:

Your fuel tank is not venting properly that is why you can't fill it. Did you plumb the vacuum like original using the vacuum diagram?

Do you have the vacuum modulator connected on the transmission? Is it any good?

Same thing for your vacuum advance on the distributor. Old vacuum diaphrams get hard with age so while it might hold vacuum it may not be moving. Make sure your PCV system is working. Otherwise you engine will push oil out of every gasket and seal.

Just reading this entire thread it seems like you are not only trying to fix a disaster, you really do not know much about cars. We all started somewhere and I admire you for sticking with this and not giving up.

Personally, I would have fixed the original carb, re-plumbed the vacuum lines, found an HEI distributor and went that route. With the aftermarket, universal carb just because it is running does not mean it is set up properly. You need to get your ignition and vacuum stuff sorted first. Then you get it running the best you can. Once you do that, fit a fresh set of plugs and take it for a good drive. After the drive pull all the plugs and read them. This will tell you if the jetting is good, etc.

As far as rebuilding the transfer case, you probably do not need to do a full rebuild. Most likely you have seal leaks. With a truck that age your yokes probably have a groove worn where the seal rides. You need to use a redi-sleeve on them or replace them. Cheaper to go the sleeve route. I just did this with my NP205. It was leaking for years. My truck was my Dad's since 1988. I got it back from my brother last year and am restoring it. I had to use a couple of sleeves.

Click to expand...

Nailed it. I know enough to be dangerous. But I've figured out more complicated things and thanks to YouTube, I can learn the wrong way to fix most anything. I just don't want to hurt anyone or burn anything down.

Most everything appears to be stock (except headers, and now carb and air filter) but it's had 50 years of unknown tinkering and every single thing is broken or worn out. I'll probably send the Quadrajet out for servicing someday but for now I'll take "running" as an upgrade.

I've been looking for a basic HEI system and new cables.

As for the gas filler lines - I don't know what's been done to them but I know the last owner had the tanks out. He did plug the fuel lines into the switch backwards (which was a really annoying problem to diagnose).

And I don't know about the vacuum modulator that connects the trans. There is a "T" off of the back that goes to the brake booster and down towards the trans. I haven't followed that though. The vacuum lines all appear pretty good. It could probably use a new PCV (the seal on the valve cover is questionable).

Thanks for the tips. I'll start digging into these.

Vacuum modulators are cheap, just replace it and make sure you have good vacuum supply to it. You will have to adjust it to get the shift point where you need them.

As far as HEI goes just buy a stock distributor with HEI for a small block. Replace the pickup inside, vacuum advance and coil. When you go to remove the distributor pay attention to where the vacuum advance is pointing, mark where the roar is pointing then when you pull it out more where the rotor is pointing . When you install the new one make sure to get the rotor pointed to the same place.

You will need new spark plug wires as the cap has a different connection for HEI vs. old style points.

You could just convert you current ignition to electronic without replacing the distributor. GM's HEI is a damn good system and was used for many years so you should be able to find a used disc. cheap enough.

Chris64 said:

Finally took it for another drive!

So Second drive - way better than the first!

I actually made it to the gas station and got gas.

AND new problem list.
* I was thinking my temp gauge wasn't working - It eventually did start working when I turned the car off. I need to inspect my thermostat, it may not even be there.
* Speedometer isn't working. The cable for it plugs into the transfer and seems ok, but it's a little leaky.
* Since I've had the motor running, the transfer case has been leaking a little (small puddle).
* Braking feels pretty weak. I was hoping the discs would clean up with a little use but they still feel pretty rough. But it does stop.
* I'm not sure if it ever shifted into 3rd. (Turbo 350 trans) The engine was getting a little wound out. I can't say how fast since I had no speedo.
* oh yeah, when I went to pump gas it would just fill up the hose and then click off. When I'd take the nozzle out it would spit a lot of it back out. I'm thinking the breather tube may be clogged or maybe has a broken check valve. If I held the nozzle cover with my hand I could fill it fine (without sealing the filler opening).

Anyway, I'm all ears if any of this sounds familiar.

How hard is it to rebuild an NP203 transfer case?

I think I'd like to have a tach and maybe put it where the brake warning light is.

New projects!

Click to expand...

Turbo 350
If you have the kick down cable adjusted too tight when you hooked it back up to the carb linkage it won’t upshift until max rpm’s. Does it shift way late from 1-2 as well? Quite possibly the issue.
On the gas filler thing, 70s squares hate the stupid new vapor recovery nozzles. Doesn’t sound like your truck has a problem since you said it will fill if you hold back the spring loaded chingadera on the fuel nozzle. And you gotta hav e the nozzle pointed the right direction. Don’t worry after a couple fill ups it will just be an annoyance.
Sounds like you’re making progress!

Chris64 said:

Finally took it for another drive!

So Second drive - way better than the first!

I actually made it to the gas station and got gas.

AND new problem list.
* I was thinking my temp gauge wasn't working - It eventually did start working when I turned the car off. I need to inspect my thermostat, it may not even be there.
* Speedometer isn't working. The cable for it plugs into the transfer and seems ok, but it's a little leaky.
* Since I've had the motor running, the transfer case has been leaking a little (small puddle).
* Braking feels pretty weak. I was hoping the discs would clean up with a little use but they still feel pretty rough. But it does stop.
* I'm not sure if it ever shifted into 3rd. (Turbo 350 trans) The engine was getting a little wound out. I can't say how fast since I had no speedo.
* oh yeah, when I went to pump gas it would just fill up the hose and then click off. When I'd take the nozzle out it would spit a lot of it back out. I'm thinking the breather tube may be clogged or maybe has a broken check valve. If I held the nozzle cover with my hand I could fill it fine (without sealing the filler opening).

Anyway, I'm all ears if any of this sounds familiar.

How hard is it to rebuild an NP203 transfer case?

I think I'd like to have a tach and maybe put it where the brake warning light is.

New projects!

Click to expand...

Turbo 350?
If you have the kick down cabke adjusted too tight when you hooked it back up to the carb linkage it won’t upshift until max rpm’s. Does it shift way late from 1-2 as well? Quite possibly the issue.
On the gas filler thing, 70s squares hate the stupid new vapor recovery nozzles. Doesn’t sound like your truck has a problem since you said it will fill if you hold back the spring loaded chingadera on the fuel nozzle. And you gotta hav e the nozzle pointed the right direction. Don’t worry after a couple fill ups it will just be an annoyance.
Sounds like you’re making progress!

It looks like an Rochester 2 barrel under there. Foot print looks to small for a 4 brl.

Whom ever recommended you put a chinese E-brock on anything, kick them in the nuts.
Any Quadrajuink is better than the best chinese carb period.

North Carolina kind of rhymes with China

Rustisbest said:

North Carolina kind of rhymes with China

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Click to expand...

North carochina

Geeze people. I get it, you like the Quadrajet. You hate the Edelbrock.

Please, let it go. I promise to rebuild the Quadrajet when I've ironed out all my other problems.

For now, I'll take what works.

Grit dog said:

Turbo 350?
If you have the kick down cable adjusted too tight when you hooked it back up to the carb linkage it won’t upshift until max rpm’s. Does it shift way late from 1-2 as well? Quite possibly the issue.

Click to expand...

This sounds very plausible. I know the geometry was slightly different and just sorta hoped it would work. I knew this would come back to haunt me.

Basically I need to do this (I just put the stud in that bottom hole).

^Yeah the carburetor loyalty is strong apparently. Lol.
If it makes you feel better both my squares have Edelbrocks. They both start fine hot or cold, they don’t bog and I spent $0 extra because they came on the trucks. The one is basically new. The other is probably old enough to drink legally and it works just like the other one. Never touched a screw or jet or float or …..
Regarding the kickdown cable I can take a pic of my eddy hooked to a TH350 if you need but in the mean time if you just disconnect it and it shifts up thru the gears normally that is probably the issue. Idk what the exact adjustment is but loose enough that it only kicks down at almost full throttle.

Chris64 said:

You hate the Edelbrock

Click to expand...

Not what I was meaning. Guy always posts everything is made in China. He probably read it on the internet somewhere....and it became fact in his mind lol