Front axle off set to passenger side

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AuroraGirl

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iamtherealJayy said:
I thought about making one out of wood since ya know I work with wood all day, but there’s no cushion to that and I catch myself resting my elbow on it all the time lol, that’s why I threw on the wrong one. So there would atleast be some cushion during bumps so my elbow didn’t take too much abuse.
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Also,tailgate is officially IH red,looks better now than in photo, also haven’t touched it since it got painted.. it still needs wet sanded and buffed too much orange peel for my liking lol. Dad sprayed it with an old spray gun I tried to buy a new one at hobo freight but they were cleaned out of all the cheapos
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I admire your effort because when I painted 2 tailgates john deere yellow I most definitely used rattle cans and little effort on the first one and then rolled the second one. I did a LITTLE prep before hand. But they were rusting to **** so I thought it was a little pissing in the wind kinda thing. But IH red looks nice. If you even did IH+hardener with a roller and then came in and sprayed you would cut a lot of time out of the thing but obviously not needed now.

That one above started to split in half so the backup came in and I put less effort like I said so you can see the moss stuff under it lol....
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iamtherealJayy

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I went through the effort and did 2 days of sanding and body filler, the tailgate it a little wavy above the handle, but the whole tailgate is kinda a ) shape lol. I have no idea why I spend more time on tailgates. I spent about 6 days on the tailgate when I painted the k10.. and about 4 on my red one
 
iamtherealJayy

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Alright so I’m noticing there’s something wrong in the lock part of the front hubs, I noticed they always wobbled if you grabbed it and shook it. They were dirty before disassembly so I cleaned them but, yesterday at work I noticed (atleast the drivers side I didn’t get a chance to look at passenger side) is loose again. The screws are tight and I’d tapped the cover in with a hammer when I put it together. There’s a small gap between the cover and the hub and there’s little grease pushing out around it. Not a lot at all but still some pushing out. Is there supposed to be a seal between the hub and the locking cover? What’s the reason mine jiggle some?
 
Redfish

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iamtherealJayy said:
Alright so I’m noticing there’s something wrong in the lock part of the front hubs, I noticed they always wobbled if you grabbed it and shook it. They were dirty before disassembly so I cleaned them but, yesterday at work I noticed (atleast the drivers side I didn’t get a chance to look at passenger side) is loose again. The screws are tight and I’d tapped the cover in with a hammer when I put it together. There’s a small gap between the cover and the hub and there’s little grease pushing out around it. Not a lot at all but still some pushing out. Is there supposed to be a seal between the hub and the locking cover? What’s the reason mine jiggle some?
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Mine are slightly loose also. If you buy the rebuild kit that @AuroraGirl posted about earlier there is an O-Ring that gets replaced. The new O-Ring will fit a little tighter and will also keep the grease seepage to a minimum.
 
Bextreme04

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I still have the original spicer locking hubs on mine and they are tight. I'd suspect the bolts are to long if they are "tight" but the cover is still wobbly and loose
 
Redfish

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Bextreme04 said:
I still have the original spicer locking hubs on mine and they are tight. I'd suspect the bolts are to long if they are "tight" but the cover is still wobbly and loose
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He has the Warn hubs and they are different from the old Spicer hubs. The component that the screws go into actually floats back and forth a little bit on the Warn hub.
 
iamtherealJayy

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They “snapped” in during assembly I tapped them the whole way on before screwing down I thought maybe an o ring or gasket or something was missing
 
VAL

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I know this is an old tread, but here goes. I had the same issue with my 86 k10. For years, that axle issue bothered the f*%k out of me. Nothing I ever thought of worked, until now. So I decided to bite the bullet, and spend the mula, and do a crossover steering setup on my rig. I also added a panhard/trackbar, from the frame to the passenger side spring perch. I loosened all the spring bushings, centered the axle using the panhhard bar(its adjustable, just like the tie rod). Tightened down everything, and wohalla! Axle is centered on the frame, The panhard bar/track bar keeps it there.
 

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Frankenchevy

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VAL said:
I know this is an old tread, but here goes. I had the same issue with my 86 k10. For years, that axle issue bothered the f*%k out of me. Nothing I ever thought of worked, until now. So I decided to bite the bullet, and spend the mula, and do a crossover steering setup on my rig. I also added a panhard/trackbar, from the frame to the passenger side spring perch. I loosened all the spring bushings, centered the axle using the panhhard bar(its adjustable, just like the tie rod). Tightened down everything, and wohalla! Axle is centered on the frame, The panhard bar/track bar keeps it there.
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If the track bar is pulling against where the leaf springs are naturally locating the axle, it may cause binding as the suspension cycles. The axle should stay centered by the springs. The track bar may center the axle at ride height, but it’s pulling against the spring bushings as the suspension compresses or droops out.

If your truck is set up to drive on relatively flat surfaces, that probably won’t matter. If you have a decent amount of wheel travel that may get interesting geometry-wise.

———————

Nevermind, I see your wheel setup. The articulation and off-road related comments are irrelevant to your truck.
 
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