Edelbrock carbs on a 350 sm blk

Edelbrock Carbs installed on a 350 small block, Good? , Bad? , Ugly?

You like? You have problems? You hate?

For a k20, no smog check in Idaho

AVS2 650 cfm #1906 ? Whats the #1916 offroad ?

I used to have an older small block Mopar with an EB carb and my 77 K20 350 currently has one as well. I have no complaints with either one. I am not real mechanically inclined and both were basically plug and play. A few adjustments out of the box. I can't remember exactly when I had the motor rebuilt on this truck but it was at least 15 years ago, but less than 20. Same carb and no problems.

I have the 1906 on my 355 SBC. It’s pretty much bolt on, minor adjustment and run it.

It does have a hesitation if I go from low cruise mode to WOT. Common complaint.

On the AVS series, there is an air door over the secondaries- that is because they are an annular booster, and requires air diverted into them. As it opens, it directs air into them initiating the fuel draw. If it slams open too soon or fast, it takes a second for the air signal to pull fuel, hence the dead spot.

But rather than tune it blindly, I found out (on accident) that my wife got me an AFR gauge for Christmas. So rather than fiddle with it, I’m going to wait.

There is a tuning process without it that you can do- adjusting the accelerator pump shot, step up springs, etc to hone it in. If you decide to buy one, advise that you get a matching jet and step up springs kit to go with it. Included with it will be a tuning grid so you can target what you want to do.

ChuckN said:

...........' If you decide to buy one, advise that you get a matching jet and step up springs kit to go with it. Included with it will be a tuning grid so you can target what you want to do.

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"a matching jet and step up springs kit to go with it. Included with it will be a tuning grid"

Is that sold by Edelbrock on their website? Got a link?

Edlebrock carbs are decent however are generic. Get an AFR gauge/meter. It's much easier today to dial in carbs with one. Used to be had to go to a shop.

Strip kit or whatever they are called:

JD Miller said:

"a matching jet and step up springs kit to go with it. Included with it will be a tuning grid"

Is that sold by Edelbrock on their website? Got a link?

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Edelbrock #1487. That’ll do the trick.

fast 99 said:

Edlebrock ... however are generic. .

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So ? what's you point?

I've had a 1411 (750 CFM) on my 396 Camaro for over 20 years now. It's been on the Outer Banks & up Mt Mitchell as well as several laps around Charlotte Motor Speedway. I'm more than satisfied with it. I also have a 1406 on my 76 Silverado.

HS

JD Miller said:

So ? what's you point?

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May or may not be jetted or adjusted for the application. Never assume any off the shelf carb will be correct. Even something as simple as a 1" spacer could change the fuel mix from engine to engine.

When GM designed Q jet carbs each application had a different calibration. Not so in the aftermarket.

I know many folks take generic replacement carb out of the box and bolt it on. Maybe adjust idle mix and speed, shut the hood. Never checking the cruise mixture. Engines may run good enough just not as good as they should or could. Many times, when I install and Carter [Edlebrock] it will need a metering rod change. Sometimes leaner sometimes richer, really never know.

A frequent complaint with the Edelbrock is a bog when transitioning from steady rpm cruise to quick acceleration. Changing the hole position of the accelerator pump rod is one possible fix, but may be ineffective. However, the bog can often be resolved by switching to a higher vacuum rated step-up spring. Spring swap can be made in less than 5 minutes, and without removing the top of the carburetor.

The step-up springs determine how low vacuum has to go before the rods move up and transition the carburetor from lean cruise to power mode. A higher rated spring (for example a 7” vacuum instead of a 5” vacuum ) will start the power mode (richer) transition sooner, and eliminate the bog.

75gmck25 said:

A frequent complaint with the Edelbrock is a bog when transitioning from steady rpm cruise to quick acceleration. Changing the hole position of the accelerator pump rod is one possible fix, but may be ineffective. However, the bog can often be resolved by switching to a higher vacuum rated step-up spring. Spring swap can be made in less than 5 minutes, and without removing the top of the carburetor.

The step-up springs determine how low vacuum has to go before the rods move up and transition the carburetor from lean cruise to power mode. A higher rated spring (for example a 7” vacuum instead of a 5” vacuum ) will start the power mode (richer) transition sooner, and eliminate the bog.

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Exactly. I went from the stock (orange I think) springs in mine, no change with the bog. The 1906 already has a bigger accelerator nozzle than the 1406, and I’m on the most aggressive setting. Before I mess with it any more I’m going to wait for the AFR gauge to eliminate the guesswork. There supposedly is an adjustment for the secondary air door per my research, but I’ve tried that and it didn’t change much either.

The plugs look ok in the meantime, so I’ll be curious to see what the gauge says.

fast 99 said:

May or may not be jetted or adjusted for the application. Never assume any off the shelf carb will be correct. Even something as simple as a 1" spacer could change the fuel mix from engine to engine.

When GM designed Q jet carbs each application had a different calibration. Not so in the aftermarket.

I know many folks take generic replacement carb out of the box and bolt it on. Maybe adjust idle mix and speed, shut the hood. Never checking the cruise mixture. Engines may run good enough just not as good as they should or could. Many times, when I install and Carter [Edlebrock] it will need a metering rod change. Sometimes leaner sometimes richer, really never know.

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Maybe you have just said that the jetting and setup adjustment is "Generic"

You original comment sounded like Basic Edelbrock carb design was generic

Eh, they work. Both squares have Eddy carbs. One is probably 20 years old and the other is a few years old. Guarantee neither has been adjusted or tuned.
Not the world’s most responsive but they both run and act the same every time. Good carb imo. For $400 id expect it would distribute gasoline for years and years, reliably.

I have had an AFR gauge for quite a while, and it’s really useful.

Start out by checking the transfer slot exposure to ensure it has a square shape at idle, install the carburetor, and adjust mixture screws for best vacuum and/or rpm. Don’t get too fixed on getting a specific idle AFR, since it jumps a bit at idle, and it’s not really easy to keep steady. As long as it’s staying in about the 13.0-14.5 range at idle with the choke off it will be fine.

Then start driving, and find out your lean cruise AFR, and then your full throttle AFR. It will be obvious if the secondaries are opening, since AFR should go to about 11-12.5 when all four barrels kick in.

JD Miller said:

Maybe you have just said that the jetting and setup adjustment is "Generic"

You original comment sounded like Basic Edelbrock carb design was generic

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Really? There's always one. Will try to be more specific in the future.

Yes, unless an OEM carb [by design] it is generic. Has to be. There's no way an aftermarket carb manufacturer can supply a specific carb for a 302 Ford Mustang grocery getter and a different one for a 454 1 ton towing a trailer. 2 entirely different applications.

When [for example] Dodge mass produced a 440 the cost of a Carter calibrated for that application could be spread among 20-40K+ vehicles. Chrysler was likely using equipment far more advanced than any private company could afford. Edlebrock probably doesn't come close to manufacturing that many total carbs for ALL applications today. So yes, the carb is basically generic and so is the calibration.