Surface rust. What are the best practices?

First post and I know there are many topics on this but the answers for these are always situational so I wanted to share my latest findings taking this rodent house apart. Yell at me if I'm doing it wrong.

First, the bed. It doesn't look terrible. I have a portable sand blaster. I was thinking of giving that a shot, maybe using some media that's less destructive, but I used it on a bike frame before at it wasn't too bad (just messy). A wire wheel would take forever and be even more messy. I wasn't looking to make it new again, but I want it sealed from the elements. I'd like to get a spray in liner but there's some debate on that. Should it get a chemical dip or ??? This is my first rodeo on a car restoration and I have more time than money.


Second, OK, still a rust question but I we're moving to the interior. Thoughts on this floor. It doesn't seem compromised (poking it with a screwdriver). Is a wire wheel and rust encapsulating paint a decent plan?

Third, the floor was covered in something that seemed like Dynamat, but it was attached to foam. Is this a factory thing? The good; it's easy to remove. The bad; it traps moisture.

And bonus question; How does this hood work? I'm afraid to close it all the way. It has no cable, just a lever in the front.

Bed is easy slurry blast or sand blast. Slurry blast will not distort metal. To do the same with interior nearly everything will need to be stripped out. Sand will get everywhere. Bed below is a Ranchero just after epoxy primer was applied. Metal is about the same gauge, slurry blasted, no warping

not sure on the bed…

The stuff in the cab I would knock any loose stuff off and epoxy or encapsulate. A D/A with 220 should make light work of it.

The hood latch should be in the grille on a ‘74, right in the center at the top.

Based on the amount of light rust you should definitely make sure your hood hinges are lubricated well, these trucks are easy to fold a crease in the hood when the hinges get worn and dry.

Also make sure the drain holes in the rear cab corners, and above the wheel wells (front and rear) are clear and not clogged with crud. Those are common spots to rust out.

I knocked the loose rust off my floorpan and used ZeroRust on it.12 years later still in good shape.

Great tips.

I've been taking a wire wheel to it and getting down to shiny metal. For now I'm coating it with some rust block primer but I'll be going back to these areas when it's time to paint.

The hood latch location is as you said. My fear is so far it's only ever gone down to the safety latch. I don't see what holds it down nor what will release it. I'm just afraid to slam it and see.

The maintenance the previous owner did was run the engine once a month and kept the hinges lubed. I was thinking about putting in those reinforcement brackets but it's perfectly straight now and I think that takes away from it's intention (to fold in a crash). I'm just going to keep them lubed for now and close it carefully (pushing it towards the windshield).

The drain holes are very likely clogged. I have rust in those areas. That will be my lesson in body repair. Hopefully it goes well.

Chris64 said:

Great tips.

I've been taking a wire wheel to it and getting down to shiny metal. For now I'm coating it with some rust block primer but I'll be going back to these areas when it's time to paint.

The hood latch location is as you said. My fear is so far it's only ever gone down to the safety latch. I don't see what holds it down nor what will release it. I'm just afraid to slam it and see.

The maintenance the previous owner did was run the engine once a month and kept the hinges lubed. I was thinking about putting in those reinforcement brackets but it's perfectly straight now and I think that takes away from it's intention (to fold in a crash). I'm just going to keep them lubed for now and close it carefully (pushing it towards the windshield).

The drain holes are very likely clogged. I have rust in those areas. That will be my lesson in body repair. Hopefully it goes well.

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Eh…. Squirt some lube on the latch mechanism and push it closed. I suppose you can work the latch a few times to ensure it moves first.

Hood latches don’t get real scary until it’s the first time closing the hood after paint and reassembly

Eh…. Squirt some lube on the latch mechanism and push it closed. I suppose you can work the latch a few times to ensure it moves first.

Hood latches don’t get real scary until it’s the first time closing the hood after paint and reassembly

Click to expand...

Found the problem. The spring meant to return the main latch was broken.

It's all riveted together. I could probably drill it out and machine some replacement parts but locating that spring by itself sounds like a pain when the whole mechanism can be acquired for $65. Hopefully it's comparable quality which sounds funny given that this broke.

You should install the hood reinforcement brackets before it gets damaged. I don't care how much lube you put on the hinges. Once it bends it's too late.

Amen on the hood braces, once the hood is bent it is bent.

Ospho

I would stand that bed up and sandblast it. It will clean up fast. I wouldn't worry about warping it. That rust will blown right off.

All the misc rust, just wire wheel it down. Hit it with some dtm or epoxy primer. I’d recommend not spraying cheapo primer on in “for the time being” just more work before paint sanding it back off. You don’t want rattle can paint under a good paint job.
Any chassis parts that will be black like the radiator support I used a dtm chassis paint. No primer. It sticks well.
For the bed, if you just want to protect it for now, ospho it.
If you’re getting ready to paint it, prep it once and prime and paint it. Same principle, less double work.
You could blast and epoxy prime it. But again you’ll have to scuff it all before painting.
Really depends on what you’re doing with the bed how you approach it.