Ignition Switch (Tilt Column)

I put an ignition switch on my truck years and years ago. Since then, it has always been tricky to get the switch to engage while the tilt is up in the highest setting.

So the other day I'm thinking....."maybe i should just replace the switch, or at least adjust it"....then I started looking at them online and noticed there is two different versions, one with tilt, one w/o tilt

Can anybody show an A/B picture of the different ignition switches? Now I'm wondering if I have the non-tilt version on my tilt column.......

slammed84 said:

I put an ignition switch on my truck years and years ago. Since then, it has always been tricky to get the switch to engage while the tilt is up in the highest setting.

So the other day I'm thinking....."maybe i should just replace the switch, or at least adjust it"....then I started looking at them online and noticed there is two different versions, one with tilt, one w/o tilt

Can anybody show an A/B picture of the different ignition switches? Now I'm wondering if I have the non-tilt version on my tilt column.......

Click to expand...

Did you have to flip the wire connectors 180 to get them to plug in ?

If not - you have the correct switch.

My truck's the same way, I don't think it's the original cuz the key's not really worn enough for that. I just look at it as anti-theft lol. I just drop the wheel and it starts fine

It could be the rack is broken or in the process of breaking.

My 76 went from being able to star in any position, to mostly having to tilt down to crank, to neither when it finally broke. I thought it was the electrical switch at first, due to mileage and age, but it worked just fine with a mini prybar to slide it manually.

I believe it broke at one of the arrows, since these are pulling on the switch, when it would be to the broken side, it would flex enough to not pull it to crank, go the other way it was just rigid enough to pull it to crank.

As it sits now I have the switch hanging from under the dash and use a mini prybar to start it, the key just unlocks the column. Another thing in the list.

On a similar note without hijacking the OPs thread I have a question. My manual trans, non-tilt (not that it matters) has become quite tight to turn the key when starting. IIRC doesn't the cylinder rotate and a rod pushes the actual ignition switch located lower on the column? I'm just wondering which part would cause the resistance.

legopnuematic said:

It could be the rack is broken or in the process of breaking.

Click to expand...

I had to replace that. Dang thing left me stranded at the post office. Had to tow my truck home

Goldie Driver said:

Did you have to flip the wire connectors 180 to get them to plug in ?

If not - you have the correct switch.

Click to expand...

There's no telling, all I remember is having to drop the column, adjust it, bolt the column back up, try to start it, drop the column, adjust it, bolt the column back up, try to start it, drop the column........

I don't think I had to flip the harness, but man that was a long time ago, at least 15 years ago probably

I'll drop the column today and post some pics this afternoon

SquareRoot said:

On a similar note without hijacking the OPs thread I have a question. My manual trans, non-tilt (not that it matters) has become quite tight to turn the key when starting. IIRC doesn't the cylinder rotate and a rod pushes the actual ignition switch located lower on the column? I'm just wondering which part would cause the resistance.

Click to expand...

Piece of trash in the cylinder
Dry cruddy grease in the rack assembly
Broken rack
Bent ignition rod
Worn out/damaged switch
Combination of all
IIRC manual columns have a button to push to allow the key to rotate? If so there could be an issue there too.

Pull the switch off of the column & cycle the key, if the resistance goes away issue is in the switch. If not the issue is in the cylinder/rack/rod mechanism

ETA: The bent design in the rod can be super sensitive to any unwanted bends, I do not recommend attempting to adjust it’s shape unless all else can be positively ruled out.

Well, I was able to make it worse, now it won't crank if the column is in either of the two highest settings. I didn't have the will to take it loose and start messing with adjusting it, sounds more like a weekend thing.

In a perfect world I would rip the column out and rebuild it. It needs gone through, the tilt ain't tilting that well anymore. Very stiff, doesn't try to spring into position anymore and I have to persuade it to move in either direction.

slammed84 said:

In a perfect world I would rip the column out and rebuild it. It needs gone through, the tilt ain't tilting that well anymore. Very stiff, doesn't try to spring into position anymore and I have to persuade it to move in either direction.

Click to expand...

That is a big part of your problem I’d bet…

Does the movable part of the column have play in it?

When the tilt mechanism gets loose it is a big contributing factor to the rack breaking

You can unbolt the switch and let it dangle to the side to start the truck without the key for a while until you can repair the column. You will just need the key to unlock the wheel lock so it can turn. Take an Allen key or screwdriver and manually cycle the switch to start and kill the engine