RockAuto- 4x4 front drive shaft, '81 K20 -Rock Auto

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JD Miller

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It is high quality, not a cheesy china POS.

Guy I know that has a drive shaft shop in Ca does alot of race car/boat and polished aluminum show car drive shafts and he wanted $400+ just to replace the slip yoke and spline and one u-joint on new slip yoke and balance. Rebuilding the double cardan would be more $$
So this Dorman shaft was a good deal

....PS Oops , spoke to soon, see below :mad::insane::mexsmoke:o_O

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JD Miller

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Damn this Dorman is 2 1/2" diameter tube. My original shaft is 2" and Rock Auto Dorman description says its a 2" also. Part number on box is correct but its a 2 1/2 " shaft

Anybody running a 2 1/2" shaft on a turbo 400 auto square body

Im going to go take other measurement, bolt pattern, other diameters
 
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JD Miller said:
It is high quality, not a cheesy china POS.

Guy I know that has a drive shaft shop in Ca does alot of race car/boat and polished aluminum show car drive shafts and he wanted $400+ just to replace the slip yoke and spline and one u-joint on new slip yoke and balance. Rebuilding the double cardan would be more $$
So this Dorman shaft was a good deal

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Click to expand...
Wow, looks like Dorman is stepping it up a bit.
 
JD Miller

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Radiohead said:
Wow, looks like Dorman is stepping it up a bit.
Click to expand...
Nope , frickin Cardon CV is 4" diameter, My original is 3 1/2" diameter. The Dorman will not clear the cross member for the trans mount. Too Big :insane:

Original shaft tube is 2" dia , Dorman is 2 1/2" dia

PS
www.dormanproducts.com

Dorman Products - 938-192

Front Driveshaft Assembly
www.dormanproducts.com www.dormanproducts.com
Dormans specs say 2" diameter. I got 2 1/2" and the cardan CV is larger too

Maybe its package wrong... My box dorman sticker 938-192 part number is correct on the box
 
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legopnuematic

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The wallet with wings strikes again!
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legopnuematic

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Dorman definitely is a mixed bag though, I have generally had decent luck with their products, I know from others they definitely have some clinkers.

Hopefully rock auto will work with you on the return. I had ordered a set of u joint u bolts, got sent a set of outer axle bearings and seals for a 10 bolt car rear. Did the online return/problem prompt, answered the questions. Next day I get an email the replacement shipped. No complaints with the process.
 
JD Miller

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legopnuematic said:
The wallet with wings strikes again!
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It isnt Rock Auto's Fault..... It s a Dorman Fudge-up
 
JD Miller

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bucket said:
It may not fit the particular application due to the larger size, but it does indeed look to be a quality unit.
Click to expand...
True , quality, But its all over size and wont fit
 
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Not pic of mine , same though. Compare 2" with 3 1/2" Cardan and 2 1/2" with larger 4" Cardan. The double Cardan u-joints are larger also

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JD Miller

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I called the number on the Tech support card that came with the Dorman Drive shaft.
PowerTrain Industries makes the drive shaft for Rock auto.
PowerTrain tech guy says they dont catalog/make a front drive shaft for 87 and older chevy 4x4 . The 938-192 driveshaft is for 1988 and newer chevy. So Dorman is Cataloging the '88 and newer drive shaft for 87 and older chevys
 
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I replaced my entire front driveshaft years ago, from a place called Driveshaft Specialists in San Antonio. I lived there, so it was local, and it worked great.

Last year I started getting loud clicking noises and determined it was the universal joints in the CV joint of the front driveshaft. Ordered all new universal joints, along with the CV centering yoke (which had fallen apart), and they were easy to replace. Also lubed the slip joint and made sure it moved easily. Based on that relatively simple job I think I would just “rebuild” it myself.
 
JD Miller

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75gmck25 said:
I replaced my entire front driveshaft years ago, from a place called Driveshaft Specialists in San Antonio. I lived there, so it was local, and it worked great.

Last year I started getting loud clicking noises and determined it was the universal joints in the CV joint of the front driveshaft. Ordered all new universal joints, along with the CV centering yoke (which had fallen apart), and they were easy to replace. Also lubed the slip joint and made sure it moved easily. Based on that relatively simple job I think I would just “rebuild” it myself.
Click to expand...
My slip yoke is worn bad
Spline shaft of the slip yoke need to be cut off on a lathe and weld new spline onto the shaft tube and then balance. Job for a drive shaft shop. Sure the rest i can do my self

I found a drive shaft shop in Ogden Utah that will build me a complete all new, proper 2" dia drive shaft with a stronger full spline slip yoke, and ship it to me in Idaho at a good price
 
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Look at the bright side... :hump:
 
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