6.0 NV4500 K30 swap

Last summer was the put it on the correct frame and this winter its 6.0/ NV4500 swap on my 77 Cheyenne K30 dually.
I can't stand the 454 and SM465, can't get the truck out of the way of traffic.
BTW 104K mile 454 carb to pan for sale cheap.
I picked up a 90k mile 6.0 out of a 01 2500 suburban and an NV4500 out of a 96+ 3500. I figured Id do a thread on my project since I've followed a lot of you guys.
Won't be my 1st LS swap but my first inna truck. I did a 02 WS6 LS1 6sp swap last winter in my 87 IROC-Z.
I was gonna try and use the existing NP205 but waaaaaaaaaaay too much brain damage. So Im on the hunt for a 32spline NP241C. Or I'll do with a NP208.
I have a couple questions;
Does the SM465 clutch disc & pressure plate work with the hydraulic clutch NV4500?
And what's the real difference (good & bad) between the NP241C and the NP208??
and BTW, I'm definitely changing to hydraulic pedal. I just haven't decided which route.
Comments ?? Answers?? Reply away Dudes.

Is the 205 in good shape? Will you be selling? I would love to get rid of the 203 in my K30

205 works but leaks. I'm in Littleton, Colorado. I'll let you know when it out. You can come get it

Raybob9289 said:

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Last summer was the put it on the correct frame and this winter its 6.0/ NV4500 swap on my 77 Cheyenne K30 dually.
I can't stand the 454 and SM465, can't get the truck out of the way of traffic.
BTW 104K mile 454 carb to pan for sale cheap.
I picked up a 90k mile 6.0 out of a 01 2500 suburban and an NV4500 out of a 96+ 3500. I figured Id do a thread on my project since I've followed a lot of you guys.
Won't be my 1st LS swap but my first inna truck. I did a 02 WS6 LS1 6sp swap last winter in my 87 IROC-Z.
I was gonna try and use the existing NP205 but waaaaaaaaaaay too much brain damage. So Im on the hunt for a 32spline NP241C. Or I'll do with a NP208.
I have a couple questions;
Does the SM465 clutch disc & pressure plate work with the hydraulic clutch NV4500?
And what's the real difference (good & bad) between the NP241C and the NP208??
and BTW, I'm definitely changing to hydraulic pedal. I just haven't decided which route.
Comments ?? Answers?? Reply away Dudes.

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To prevent PCV issues, buy the GM or dorman driver side valve cover, and put the revised PCV to work. Also, a catch can if you want to really keep the intake and runners and TB clean.

The Passenger side you should remove the valve cover, and remove the tab holding the Oil neck, then put the cap directly on the cover.

If you live in a cold climate, there is a oil fill cap with a vent that can be used to prevent oil burning in very cold weather.

Raybob9289 said:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Last summer was the put it on the correct frame and this winter its 6.0/ NV4500 swap on my 77 Cheyenne K30 dually.
I can't stand the 454 and SM465, can't get the truck out of the way of traffic.
BTW 104K mile 454 carb to pan for sale cheap.
I picked up a 90k mile 6.0 out of a 01 2500 suburban and an NV4500 out of a 96+ 3500. I figured Id do a thread on my project since I've followed a lot of you guys.
Won't be my 1st LS swap but my first inna truck. I did a 02 WS6 LS1 6sp swap last winter in my 87 IROC-Z.
I was gonna try and use the existing NP205 but waaaaaaaaaaay too much brain damage. So Im on the hunt for a 32spline NP241C. Or I'll do with a NP208.
I have a couple questions;
Does the SM465 clutch disc & pressure plate work with the hydraulic clutch NV4500?
And what's the real difference (good & bad) between the NP241C and the NP208??
and BTW, I'm definitely changing to hydraulic pedal. I just haven't decided which route.
Comments ?? Answers?? Reply away Dudes.

Click to expand...

If you want a transfer case that will work with very little extra, the np261 or np263 (electrical version of the same one as the np261) with a upgraded rear case half OR a case saver installed in the magnesium rear is a direct intended tcase for your 6.0 in the gmt800 from a couple years newer, not sure about inputs but youd need to have the opposite side drop as the square. And the front axle would likely have to be 9.5aam unless the case maybe can be used with a old locker-style axle? Im not sure if its able to since the gmt800 actuates the axle to engage when you select 4wd. The 9.5 aam front axle would give you slip on rotors and nice dual piston brakes, but this would require changing master cylinders and such. Just an idea.

I did a quick google, an era similar Dana 44 or Dana 60 front axle from a ford should work. the few places I googled suggest the Np261 (manual lever, if it wasnt clear) will work with those.

That would retain your brakes setup with similar sized stuff.

The Np261HD and NP261UHD are both good and beefy, the UHD is out of 3500 trucks, has a thicker chain and is quite stout. The HD is 2500

My understanding is the NP208 and 241 are mostly the same, but 241 is updated. Think of it as 700R4 vs a 4L60E, a few update/improvements to go with the name change, but both are basically built for the same thing. Either would probably work fine in your truck if you don't beat on them, but either is probably the weak link in your drivetrain as they are essentially 1/2-3/4T transfer cases. Are you sure the 205 doesn't just need a rebuild?

The 261 is definitely beefier, but I don't know if an axle swap is worth it. The earlier (Pre-'05) Ford front axles have wider spring perches and would require some adapters to fit on a square frame, and the newer (2005+) use radius arms and coils springs. Pretty sure either can be done, and I'd be very interested if you go that route, but it becomes a project in and of itself. Note that your existing Dana 60 will be worth a pretty penny if you choose to sell...

Hunter79764 said:

My understanding is the NP208 and 241 are mostly the same, but 241 is updated. Think of it as 700R4 vs a 4L60E, a few update/improvements to go with the name change, but both are basically built for the same thing. Either would probably work fine in your truck if you don't beat on them, but either is probably the weak link in your drivetrain as they are essentially 1/2-3/4T transfer cases. Are you sure the 205 doesn't just need a rebuild?

The 261 is definitely beefier, but I don't know if an axle swap is worth it. The earlier (Pre-'05) Ford front axles have wider spring perches and would require some adapters to fit on a square frame, and the newer (2005+) use radius arms and coils springs. Pretty sure either can be done, and I'd be very interested if you go that route, but it becomes a project in and of itself. Note that your existing Dana 60 will be worth a pretty penny if you choose to sell...

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the 241 drops the opposite direction as the np208, at last as they came in chevys
And the np208 has a smaller 4lo ratio

The 241 has upgraded parts as you described but similar

I think the np205 is the best to keep, but the OP wants to change it because he has a figure 8 np205, not because he cant get it to work. He wants the round output with 32 spline or whatever

This thread makes my sticker peck out... I am sub.....scribed.

Pretty sure 241 came with both sides, but passenger drop is certainly less common. I think it was 88-91 Burbs and Crew Cabs, so small pool to draw from, but they do exist.

Hunter79764 said:

My understanding is the NP208 and 241 are mostly the same, but 241 is updated. Think of it as 700R4 vs a 4L60E, a few update/improvements to go with the name change, but both are basically built for the same thing. Either would probably work fine in your truck if you don't beat on them, but either is probably the weak link in your drivetrain as they are essentially 1/2-3/4T transfer cases. Are you sure the 205 doesn't just need a rebuild?

The 261 is definitely beefier, but I don't know if an axle swap is worth it. The earlier (Pre-'05) Ford front axles have wider spring perches and would require some adapters to fit on a square frame, and the newer (2005+) use radius arms and coils springs. Pretty sure either can be done, and I'd be very interested if you go that route, but it becomes a project in and of itself. Note that your existing Dana 60 will be worth a pretty penny if you choose to sell...

Click to expand...

Adaptation of the 205 to the NV4500 is a shitshow. Way to much $$ and brain damage.
This old K30 squarebody is my Home Depot weekend cruiser. I don't think I'll ever beat on a 208 or 241 enough to break it. And I've found 208 & 241's with pass side drops and already 32 spline inputs for between $500 (used) to $2k (full rebuilt).
I really appreciate the feedback

The weak points of the 208/241 (C,DLD,DHD) are really the cases themselves. The internals are plenty strong.

The 241C are pretty much the same as the 241DLD, besides the drivers vs passenger side drop (for the ones of interest for a squarebody). Internally they use the same chains, and most other parts, inputs and outputs are different for the specific applications of course.

I say that to say this, the NP241DLD was the standard transfer case used on all 1994-02 Ram 2500s, from v8, v10, Cummins all used the same case. The DHD was optional in the 2500s (standard in 3500s). The DHD uses a wider chain and has provision for a PTO but otherwise is the same as the DLD.

The biggest killers I suspect is total neglect, and bad u joints that lead to the case itself breaking.

Picked up a working NP208 out of a 85 Silverado K20. $100 also got the Whole shifter, bezel & wiring to light up on the dash. I just need to have my brother do a rebuild and change out the 27 spline for a 32 spline.

This is gonna be an awesome truck when it's finished!

454 Engine, SM465 trans and NP205 are out & sold.. Im fully committed now