Rear body mounts for a 74 k20

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Chris64

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San Diego
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Chris
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Hello,
I'm replacing the stock body mounts. It's been going OK so far. The first bolt has not spun on me. The problem I'm running into is how do I remove the rear bushing on a 74. Most videos suggest doing just one mount at a time but this year has this stupid metal tube/flange that would require me to lift it about 2-3" to clear the frame.
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I don't think I can do it one at a time on the rears. Perhaps I can remove both rear mounts but is this bad to do with the fenders and everything still attached? It seems like a lot of stress.

Also, I'm using an electric impact to remove the bolts. Most people are using breaker bars. I honestly have less problems with the impact but would welcome advice. Hopefully I'm not going to need to cut open my floors.
 

Old Guy Bill

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Bill
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1978
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K20
Engine Size
400
First thing is loosen all four mounts, breaker bar or impact, either will work. Try not to twist any of the bolts off.
Jack up one corner at a time…it’s tough but can be done.
 

Chris64

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San Diego
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Chris
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1974
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
First thing is loosen all four mounts, and I’d do it with a breaker bar. Try not to twist any of the bolts off.
Jack up one corner at a time…it’s tough but can be done.
OK - well I got impatient and went ahead and just did the rear. I was able to wiggle them out with about a 1.5" lift on the cab. New rear mounts are in. It's looking more level.

I should've loosened the front mounts. I'm dreading this a little...here goes. I'll try a breaker bar on this one.
 

RaisedK5

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Memramcook, New Brunswick, Canada
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Leland
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
Blazer
Engine Size
350
I've always done one side at a time. All left. Then all right. That way you're tilting the body side to side and not putting too much stress between cab and fender as that's exactly where the fenders rip on Blazers and burbs when you wheel them hard.
 

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