What have you done to your square lately??

Rustisbest · Sep 22, 2024

JamesSam said:
Somebody help me figure this out guys, a few things going on in here:
So, yesterday, I went back into the drivers door and got all the wires spliced and crimped. Hooked the battery back up and tested to see if the job worked and both windows moved. I did not go all the way down with the drivers(problematic side) because I had to clean up fast and be somewhere. I was excited that I had power with the new switch capacitor wired in. I was also excited because I got this 2nd new regulator(Dorman) in solid and the rollers worked great in the tracks. Today I go back to put the door card back on and button it up but decided to make sure there were no snags... passenger side seems to work fine. Drivers side will go down all the way then has trouble on the way up at about 2/3. Randomly power will not go through. Waiting a little bit seems to help. Also it seems like I will need to suture the capacitor to the switch inside the door before I put it back as it may slip out. I had to help the window up before calling it quits for today, it's going to rain for another 5 or so days soon. I also found this plug with nothing in it hanging down as if had come loose. What is it? Appears to have been mounted where the 2 holes above it are in the dash. It's to the right of the E break lever.

Is the window intermittent and not going up all the way because of my splicing/crimping hack job? Is it felt related? Have I mounted the motor wrong. All things seemed to check out while doing the job.
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Does this plug I just found need something I am missing? I have not noticed it before today ever since owning the truck.

Did you put any lube on the tracks? I use this stuff on the tracks, felts, hinges, etc.

DuPont Chain Lubricant 10 oz Mfr# CS0110101 - Ace Hardware

A high-performance, O-ring safe chain lubricant, DuPont Chain-Saver with Teflon Fluoropolymer for Chain-Driven Vehicles utilizes a patented formulation, so it resists dirt or will not fling off the chain. It can help chains and sprockets last up to five times longer. Sets up to a clean, dry wax...

www.acehardware.com

gmbellew · Sep 22, 2024

Windows are on a circuit breaker, not a fuse. so if it struggles and gets hung up, eventually the heat may trip the circuit breaker. it cools off and works again after a little bit. circuit breaker keeps it from burning things up if somebody just holds down the switch after the window is up or down all the way.

nvrenuf · Sep 22, 2024

Drove it some to make sure it’s ready to go to Cruising the Coast.

HotWheelsBurban · Sep 22, 2024

nvrenuf said:
Drove it some to make sure it’s ready to go to Cruising the Coast.

Looks ready to me LoL

pinballlarry1 · Sep 22, 2024

Repaired the parking brake release rod. Someone before me had bent the lever to keep the rod from popping off since they had no retainer:

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Never noticed it was missing until I ran the new switch wires. Removed the release rod and dash bushing.
Parts before:

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Parts after:

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New dash bushing just snaps in with thumb pressure. Extra (I assume) holes made by others:

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I managed to bend the release mechanism actuator arm back to a straight position. Everything was reassembled in just a few minutes. Definitely can feel a big difference in smoothness when pulling the handle now:

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Parts came from LMC on my last order, around $8 total for the 2 pieces.

bluex · Sep 22, 2024

ChuckN said:
First drive, flawless. Glad I did those inner fenders, not a single rub.

Looks great out in the day light!

ChuckN · Sep 23, 2024

bluex said:
Looks great out in the day light!

She makes it out every once in a while lol. No, I’m pretty bad at taking time for pictures when I’m out- I’d say that any day that I’m off and it’s not raining, it’s out of the garage. It’s just the only time I ever think of picking up the cellphone camera :emotions33:

Drauka99 · Sep 23, 2024

Patched the rust on the drivers fender and got it ready for primer and the dings worked out of it. I disassembled the passenger door and got it mostly ready for primer. I need to do a bit of sanding on the inside lower area first, if I get really ambitious I might clean up a few dings there too. I'm 90% done with prep for primer at this point. Last weekend was floor pan and rocker patches, so this weekend felt light in comparison. Need to get the cab stripped and go over it for prep and then I can start laying on the primer.

Finally decided on paint colors. Truck paint scheme was "Deluxe two tone" in 81. I plan to keep that, with the Cab and lower getting Chevrolet Covert Tan (WA 4235) and the main color being GM Medium Olive (WE 5169) planning some metallic in there as well. I wanted something different than stock but still pay respect to the original, those colors were both used in the 70s generation GM vehicles.

mxer147 · Sep 23, 2024

I’d like to remove just the fenders but not the hood to work on the fenders and install the doors. Can it be done this way? I was considering building a couple triangle braces for resting the hood while I work on the fenders.

legopnuematic · Sep 23, 2024

mxer147 said:
I’d like to remove just the fenders but not the hood to work on the fenders and install the doors. Can it be done this way? I was considering building a couple triangle braces for resting the hood while I work on the fenders.

For an 80s front end you should be able to, as the hood hinges are mounted on/in the cowl. Just remove the spring portion of the hinge that bolts on the fender.

JamesSam · Sep 23, 2024

Looks like the front side of the drivers windowpane is totally outside the felt track. I would say that is likely what is stopping it from gliding all the way up. I suppose it has been that way the whole time I have owned it and I didn't realize. Does anyone have a trick to get the felt on to the outside of the glass? Or, I guess, has this happened to any of you all? @Rustisbest I have put lithium grease on the tracks, rollers and moving parts on the regulator. I need to get something for the felt track. I may be getting the Du Pont chain lube you reccomend or some type of air spray lube I have seen before.

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Rustisbest · Sep 23, 2024

You should be able to pull out the screws for the rear track to give you enough slack to get it in the front. Check the bracket for the rear track-mine was broken and just like this when I got it.

JamesSam · Sep 23, 2024

Rustisbest said:
You should be able to pull out the screws for the rear track to give you enough slack to get it in the front. Check the bracket for the rear track-mine was broken and just like this when I got it.

You think if my bracket is loose that is what caused the window to end up outside the felt track?

Rustisbest · Sep 23, 2024

JamesSam said:
You think if my bracket is loose that is what caused the window to end up outside the felt track?

It's possible. The bracket on mine was completely broken. It had a previous repair job on it that didnt hold up. Dont know if it's a common issue or not.

JamesSam · Sep 23, 2024

Rustisbest said:
It's possible. The bracket on mine was completely broken. It had a previous repair job on it that didnt hold up. Dont know if it's a common issue or not.

I am definitely going to take a look next time I'm in there but I think my tracks are pretty steady. I'm scouring the interweb and trying to brainstom what plastic wedge like tool or plier I could use to get the felt over the side of the window edge and not scratch the glass.

What have you done to your square lately??

Rustisbest

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