Tired of mechanic shop

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

84ScottsdaleSS

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2024
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Arkansas
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
454
I took my truck to the shop to get a new engine installed. I did that because I didn’t have space or the right major tools. They also installed my Tremec TKX 5 speed. After picking the truck up, driving it home, and looking over the work, I’ve found some janky work done on my clutch rather than replace the linkage. I’ll post a video of the clutch fork while I have someone else pushing the clutch. I’ve never worked on a transmission or clutch before, but I’m wondering if this is because the throw out bearing is improperly installed. I’d my clutch linkage missing an adjustment rod where the spring is? Any suggestion would be helpful and appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2022.jpeg
    IMG_2022.jpeg
    123 KB · Views: 76
  • IMG_2019.jpeg
    IMG_2019.jpeg
    147.6 KB · Views: 81
  • IMG_2023.jpeg
    IMG_2023.jpeg
    111.5 KB · Views: 80
  • IMG_2054.jpeg
    IMG_2054.jpeg
    110.8 KB · Views: 73

Big Jim

Junior Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2024
Posts
6
Reaction score
24
Location
NC
First Name
John
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
Sierra Grande
Engine Size
350
I'm in a similar situation after having my clutch replaced. The adjustment was all off and the clutch pedal wouldn't return all the way. I could tap it up with my foot but it would not return on my own. Additionally, the clutch would engage almost as soon as I lifted my foot from having the clutch pushed all the way down. Never operated one like that on any truck I've driven. Shop claims it's fine but I don't buy it. First, found the adjustment rod to the fork was not set correctly. Setting that set my clutch engagement a little higher from off the floor. (It does engage really well and tells me the old one was worse than I thought) Next, I noticed the clutch fork return spring was missing completely. They did add the small retaining spring to keep the adjuster in contact with the fork. I replaced that (as shown in your pics) and now the pedal returns pretty close to all the way up, nearly in line with the brake pedal.

I see you're missing that small retaining spring. Also, in your first pic the return spring is connected to a higher spot on the frame. I used the hole below the shock mount. That keeps the spring better inline with the movement of the clutch fork IMO. The long rod is just excess material that came with the generic spring - I trimmed mine. Last, you're missing the boot on the housing that goes around the clutch fork.
 

Wilfred

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2020
Posts
76
Reaction score
19
Location
Western Massachusetts
First Name
Wil
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
Blazer
Engine Size
350ci
The throw out bearing or release bearing (whatever you want to call it) was installed with the spring tab of the clutch fork on the outside of the flange of the bearing instead of inside. This creates a gap in between the bearing and the clutch fork.
See youtube video below
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,075
Posts
948,862
Members
36,145
Latest member
my82blazer
Top