Vbb199
B-rate Hillbilly Customs
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2018
- Posts
- 9,010
- Reaction score
- 15,265
- Location
- Salisbury NC
- First Name
- Vince
- Truck Year
- 89, 79
- Truck Model
- 89 Suburban R1500, 79 C10
- Engine Size
- 350, 502
I've yet to pull the head off of my own 250, so I'm afraid I can't help with a lot of personal experience there. Referring to my Haynes manual, it says you will need to remove rocker arms and pushrods in addition to the valve cover. Obviously since they're attached to the heads, you'll be removing the intake and exhaust manifold assembly as well.
As far as head bolts, specs seem to indicate 95 ft-lbs, though again I'm looking at a book for 73-87 so I can't be positive that's correct for your (presumably 1970) inline 6, you may want to do some independent verification of that. I personally would just re-use the bolts after a thorough cleaning, but that may be a terrible idea because (again) I've never done this before. Also here's a (poor) picture of the torque sequence, it seems to jive with some other diagrams I've found online.
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The Haynes manual also suggests adding a coat sealant if you're using a steel gasket.
Not sure if any of that helps at all, but good luck I suppose. Also, you may want to start a new thread with your question since this one's kinda old.
You ideally don't wanna reuse the head bolts.
They stretch from thermal expansion of the combustion process over and over and over again.
I've reused head bolts, but that's because the particular motor didn't have blind, tapped holes.
If the block has blind holes, you definitely want to stay away from reusing the bolts, they won't bring the head down flush
Where my knowledge stops is, I don't know if a 250 has blind tapped holes or not.