Starter problems after doing 5 speed swap

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Rustisbest

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Can just hope its correct. Its probably not the issue but mistakes happen.

I ordered a 9 inch housing and axle kit from Currie for my truck and they sent me a 67-72 housing in a 73-87 box.

Yukon sent me a duragrip without the roll pins to hold the cross shafts in.
 

justinbrugg

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Hmm. Yeah, I'd call American Powertrain and go through everything with them. Until you pull it apart, we're just spitting darts

So does the starter grind/make horrible noises or everything functions correctly and you're just worried about it only engaging halfway? Cuz if it were a 168/153/wrong starter thing, it would make all kinds of terrible noise when trying to start.

If it's purely just engaging half the teeth but working fine otherwise, I'd contact that guy at American Powertrain back to see how his is but honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. I've had starters in the past that didn't quite get 100% engagement and worked fine for a long time.
Has it ever been 1/2 engagement? Seems so little
They are the same starter just a different nose cone. We used to swap nose cones regularly depending on what we were building. And if I had 2/3rds engaged I wouldn't even be worried about it.
2/3 meshing. Less that 1/2 engagement. Black line on pinon is how deep it goes into fly
 

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justinbrugg

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Can just hope its correct. Its probably not the issue but mistakes happen.

I ordered a 9 inch housing and axle kit from Currie for my truck and they sent me a 67-72 housing in a 73-87 box.

Yukon sent me a duragrip without the roll pins to hold the cross shafts in.
Should I just try starting it and see what happens?
 

TotalyHucked

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Should I just try starting it and see what happens?
Have you contacted American Powertrain yet to see what they say? I wouldn't do anything further until I got their opinion since it's their kit.
 
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justinbrugg

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Have you contacted American Powertrain yet to see what they say? I wouldn't do anything further until I got their opinion since it's their kit.
Pretty challenging to get in contact with their support. Sent them a couple of emails and tried calling half dozen times. Planning on letting it rip after I get back in town on Monday. Worst that happens is it slowly eats my ring gear over the summer and I get a new one put on over the winter. Plan on putting a scat rotating assembly in anyway so it won’t be too much of a pain.
 

TotalyHucked

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Pretty challenging to get in contact with their support. Sent them a couple of emails and tried calling half dozen times. Planning on letting it rip after I get back in town on Monday. Worst that happens is it slowly eats my ring gear over the summer and I get a new one put on over the winter. Plan on putting a scat rotating assembly in anyway so it won’t be too much of a pain.
Gotcha. I haven't dealt with them other than talking to them at shows. Seem like good guys, but I do know it's a small-ish operation
 

mlsceo

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ok yeah my flywheel is on right. Gears on side facing motor, ridge, and there’s no indent were the crank meets. I think it just has a nice Finnish on both sides.
You mean finish. I have a friend whose wife is Finnish, she's really nice.
 

mlparkey

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Seeing as how ther are only 2 components in this issue, the starter and the flywheel, and since the starter is bolted to the block and can not be moved forward or rearward, the problem has to be the flywheel. That's the only component that's new in the starting situation. I've never seen a flywheel with that smooth of a surface on the block side.
 

Ricko1966

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Has it ever been 1/2 engagement? Seems so little

2/3 meshing. Less that 1/2 engagement. Black line on pinon is how deep it goes into fly
Measure to the black line,looks wider than the tooth width on an automatic flex plate. I'd probably need to see it in person but,from where I'm sitting I don't see a problem. The same starter is used manual or automatic. If the engagement is the same width as a flexplate starter gear,I'd quit worrying. That ring gear looks removable, if it wears out,when you put the new gear on don't put it on as deep. If you are really worried move it now. I wouldn't,but I'm not you. I went and found you a video I didn't watch the whole thing I don't need to. If you decide to move yours look for tack welds I tack them.
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justinbrugg

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Seeing as how ther are only 2 components in this issue, the starter and the flywheel, and since the starter is bolted to the block and can not be moved forward or rearward, the problem has to be the flywheel. That's the only component that's new in the starting situation. I've never seen a flywheel with that smooth of a surface on the block side.
It’s a billet fly wheel. Both surfaces are well “finished” and no it’s not installed backwards. But I’m with you it’s probably an issue with the fly. I’m planning on starting it tomorrow and seeing how it goes. I’ve also done a rough measurement on the end of ring gear to block and it’s up to spec or not enough to make a difference. Might be that this fly has a thicker ring gear but I’m not sure. I’ll do some measurements tomorrow!
 
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justinbrugg

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Measure to the black line,looks wider than the tooth width on an automatic flex plate. I'd probably need to see it in person but,from where I'm sitting I don't see a problem. The same starter is used manual or automatic. If the engagement is the same width as a flexplate starter gear,I'd quit worrying. That ring gear looks removable, if it wears out,when you put the new gear on don't put it on as deep. If you are really worried move it now. I wouldn't,but I'm not you. I went and found you a video I didn't watch the whole thing I don't need to. If you decide to move yours look for tack welds I tack them.
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Thank you very much! My plan is to try the starter Tommorow and see how it goes. Originally I didn’t know it was possible to pull just the ring gear off. That’s why I was so worried. I’ve been working on this car for way too long and just want to be able to drive it.
 

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