Acquired an 84 K30 parts truck

My buddy bought this for the axles for $1500. In exchange for setting up the axles for his K5, I'm taking the bed. It's perfectly straight and rust free (S. Cali).
The bed is going on my 86 K20. My truck was t-boned long before I bought it. I have checked the frame every way possible and there isn't any damage to the frame and it appears straight. However, the body lines on the bed have never lined up with the cab. I installed new poly cab mounts but that didn't fix it. I'm convinced the metal was stretched and the bed isn't square. From underneath the truck I can see the repair ( body hammer holes and bondo) on the inside of the panel.
So, to the point. How does the bed panels attach? Are they separate pieces attached with spot welds and seam sealer?
Also, the new bed has a 3/8th hole near the front and back upper part of the wheel well. They are in line horizontally, the same height as the taillights. Are these indicative of a trim piece?
More to come...

A few more..
The homemade body lift is entertaining. Lol. Pieces of square or round tubing. Get r done

I’ve recently completely reassembled the ‘70s bed I purchased.
The bed sides bolt on the front panel and along the wheel wells and bed floor.
There are some short welds at the bottom of the tailgate posts to the bed floor.
Those sides weigh about 80lbs each and are difficult to maneuver.

Old Guy Bill said:

I’ve recently completely reassembled the ‘70s bed I purchased.
The bed sides bolt on the front panel and along the wheel wells and bed floor.
There are some short welds at the bottom of the tailgate posts to the bed floor.
Those sides weigh about 80lbs each and are difficult to maneuver.

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Bill, thanks for the info. Is there seal sealer or adhesive on the joints? I assume they are lap joints but my question is after removing the bolts will the pieces just come apart easily?

On second thought, I'm not sure that these holes are for trim but rather a wheel well molding. They are only present on the rear not the front fenders.

SquareRoot said:

A few more..
The homemade body lift is entertaining. Lol. Pieces of square or round tubing. Get r done

Click to expand...

When I got my first 4x4. A 1974 gmc k10 it came with a home built 4" body lift made from 2 X 4" tubing cut into pieces and drilled holes for the bolts to go through. It was pretty floppy lol

SquareRoot said:

Bill, thanks for the info. Is there seal sealer or adhesive on the joints? I assume they are lap joints but my question is after removing the bolts will the pieces just come apart easily?

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It’s body sealer along every seam inside the bed. Mine just pulled right away, but this bed wasn’t very rusty at all, I had no stripped hardware.
The tough part for me was at the tailgate posts, the bed side is sandwiched there between the rearmost bed bottom support and the bed floor. I used a cut off wheel on the welds there but still had to use a small pry bar to get it all loose.

SquareRoot said:

On second thought, I'm not sure that these holes are for trim but rather a wheel well molding. They are only present on the rear not the front fenders.

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As far as I'm aware those holes are for the ugly door bumper trim. Those holes are too far out for wheel well trim other than the big ugly aftermarket ones, and there would be more holes for those I would imagine. My suburban has those same holes, on the rear even under the tail lights. But it does also have one on each side on the front fenders, none on the doors. Mine was also repainted at some point.

It all un-bolts, except for around the tailgate cross member. There are a coupe of welds either side that need to be cut out, then it comes apart. Depending on the condition of the bolts some may be easier to cut. We picked up a cool Milwaukee power tool that has a small vibrating cutter head. Its ideal for getting into tight 90degree spots without damage, that you cant get to with a normal disc angle grinder. Used this to remove the rusted corner bolts on a wooden floor bed.
Have 2 people 1 at each end to lift the bed side off. Keep bolts in the head board end to stop 1 end falling off and twisting the sheetmetal, when you remove the welds at the tailgate.
Make sure to remove any underside rod stays that support the corners of the wheel arches.
Make sure the bed is bolted down / propped before taking one side off, so the rest of the bed does not tip once you take the weight off one side. ( ask me how I know all this ..)

SquareRoot said:

On second thought, I'm not sure that these holes are for trim but rather a wheel well molding. They are only present on the rear not the front fenders.

Click to expand...

To my knowledge neither those holes by the fender well, nor the one in front of the tail light are for any factory attachments or trim.
The 2 holes under the tail light are for the oe corner trim that matches the oe stick on plastic 80s models belt line trim.
Although the ones front and rear of the fender line up conspicuously close to the belt line trim. But from the factory it was all stick on except for the rear corners.

Any chance your friend would sell the rear spring hangers?