Engine Crossmember Replacement

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NC595

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Bryan
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1986
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C10
Engine Size
305
Thanks for all the info so far, everyone! Good stuff!

The truck is at my garage a few towns over which I really only get to on weekends. I'll see if I can get some pictures, but to my recollection, the majority of the back "wall" is rotted out. The whole front end hasn't collapsed yet, so I guess that's a good sign... Not planning on taking it down the road that way, obviously.

I do have a hefty welder and I'm pretty good with it, I just can't see the extent of the rot in the truck's current position. There's a possibility (being from the land of salt and disintegrating tail gates) it's too far gone, so I'm planning accordingly. If I can save it, I definitely will, but I'm preparing for worst case.

Now on an related note, if I'm going to lower the truck at some point, what are the limitations of the factory crossmember? I'd like to lower it to the point I won't need to C-notch the back. Exact amount is TBD, but just curious what the limit is with factory parts.
 

vr1967

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k1500
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6.2L turbo
A good front crossmember down here is sw MS is a $100 - $150 part. Wonder what a bare crossmember weights? Shipping would probably be costly.
 

CountKrunk

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Count
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C20 Custom Deluxe 3+3
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v8 350
since you're good with a welder have you considered removing it and fixing it? Or do you think it's too far gone to cut and weld some fresh metal in?
 

Grit dog

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Man I sold a whole front frame section (complete suspension minus steering box) from the 85 I parted out a few years ago for like $150. Way less crusty too.

I guess inflation or supply and demand.
No, whoever is trying to sell that is maybe trolling. Or waiting for the right person IMO.
But realistically it’s not that far fetched of a price if you think about it.
First, it’s a part that’s not made anymore and not a high demand. Very few “rusted out” and someone is actually trying to restore a truck in that bad of shape. If structural frame members are rotted out, the rest of the truck likely ain’t even close to being worth saving.
So mostly marketing to someone with a “nice” square that got in a wreck bad enough to bend the cradle. That happens very rarely given the relatively low numbers on the road and even lower numbers that are driven daily and at higher risk of a bad accident.
BUT if you need one you NEED it. Say an hour or 2 to remove it “carefully”. Another hour to pack it and take it for shipping. Probably $100 to ship. That’s worth a couple hundo right there if you’re a days drive from the good end of the salt belt AND need it. And the part is still “free.” Guys pay a couple 3 hundred for a schitty repop fender.
And those are dime a dozen, original or repop.
 

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