What have you done to your square lately??

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DoubleDingo

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Yeah, it's not "not" normal, but definitely higher than I'd wanna see. Even in a non-lockup trans. It'll live longer if you put a cooler on it
But, if you don't have a temp gauge, you'd never know and the trans would run decades without issues.
 

WFarm

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For something like an automatic transmission, where you have fluid doing different things in different locations in the tranny there is really no perfect place to monitor temps. What’s important is to establish a baseline and just watch it for deviations versus a specific number.

This is assuming of course your transmission is healthy to start. Mine certainly seems to be as it works as designed. Shortly after I bought the Blazer I dropped the pan to check the fluid and replace the filter. Fluid was clean and red, no debris in pan. A few thousand miles later I again dropped to pan to remove that leaking kick down cable linkage. Everything looked great so I can conclude, in the absence of anything to the contrary, that the transmission is healthy. Now I’ll just watch for changes.
 

TotalyHucked

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But, if you don't have a temp gauge, you'd never know and the trans would run decades without issues.
True, but it could also fail and you wouldn't really know if it was because it had been hot forever and a day or something else
 

TotalyHucked

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For something like an automatic transmission, where you have fluid doing different things in different locations in the tranny there is really no perfect place to monitor temps. What’s important is to establish a baseline and just watch it for deviations versus a specific number.

This is assuming of course your transmission is healthy to start. Mine certainly seems to be as it works as designed. Shortly after I bought the Blazer I dropped the pan to check the fluid and replace the filter. Fluid was clean and red, no debris in pan. A few thousand miles later I again dropped to pan to remove that leaking kick down cable linkage. Everything looked great so I can conclude, in the absence of anything to the contrary, that the transmission is healthy. Now I’ll just watch for changes.
Also true. It's definitely less of a worry in older transmissions, 4L60/4L80 and newer are much more sensitive to temperature
 

DoubleDingo

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Also true. It's definitely less of a worry in older transmissions, 4L60/4L80 and newer are much more sensitive to temperature
I agree with the newer ones being more sensitive to high temps. I think the AW4 would also fall into that category, albeit a solid transmission. I don't want to hex my ride, but my 1991 Cherokee was 223k on the original drivetrain, and it runs and shifts well for a high mileage rig.
 

SirRobyn0

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Everything I read says those are normal temps.
Yes, but it's higher than ideal.
Yeah, it's not "not" normal, but definitely higher than I'd wanna see. Even in a non-lockup trans. It'll live longer if you put a cooler on it
I would agree with that.
But, if you don't have a temp gauge, you'd never know and the trans would run decades without issues.
True but that doesn't mean he can extend the life if his transmission with a cooler.

My 700r4 which obviously does have a lockup, it's also got a big cooler. Normal driving the gauge usually runs around 150. If I'm towing 7k I'll see 180ish. The only time I see temps up around 220 is when I'm pulling a pass with the trailer and my foot is into the gas hard.

Also there is the issue of fluids. If your running a dex/merc type fluid and it's not full synthetic your fluid isn't going to take heat as well before it brakes down in comparison to something full synthetic.

I would worry terribly about those temps but I'd put a cooler on it as soon as it's convenient so the next time you plop a load in the bed your not push unsafe temps. Plus it'll make your trans last longer.
 

SirRobyn0

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And now for what I did today. I pull my axles and drums and installed a new spring kit because I did when I did the shoes and they were dragging. I detailed that a little more in my diff thread.

I also took the fast idle cam of the carb and cleaned the shift really well. I've been having trouble with the choke sticking open. Also put a new throttle return spring on it because I've been having trouble getting it to idle down full when warmed up.

It not that I mind edelbrock carburetors, (the po installed one on my truck and I've kept it). They are easy to work on but man they are built no where near as well as the quadrajet was!
 

Radiohead

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My Roadkill-esque punch list grew some, using just the amazing powers of observation and the voice of experience.

Just as life is getting, complicated. Lol, I'm going to need the distraction.
 

ChuckN

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My Roadkill-esque punch list grew some, using just the amazing powers of observation and the voice of experience.

Just as life is getting, complicated. Lol, I'm going to need the distraction.
Well, if the rig isn’t held together by zip ties, and you don’t have to turn on the heater to activate the fuel pump, you’re doing awright.
 

ChuckN

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And now for what I did today. I pull my axles and drums and installed a new spring kit because I did when I did the shoes and they were dragging. I detailed that a little more in my diff thread.

I also took the fast idle cam of the carb and cleaned the shift really well. I've been having trouble with the choke sticking open. Also put a new throttle return spring on it because I've been having trouble getting it to idle down full when warmed up.

It not that I mind edelbrock carburetors, (the po installed one on my truck and I've kept it). They are easy to work on but man they are built no where near as well as the quadrajet was!
As an Edelbrock owner that was initially a fan and now have gone through the process of getting it to work as it should, I won’t dispute that comment.
 

Radiohead

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454 crazy cubes, or 7.4 luscious litres
Well, if the rig isn’t held together by zip ties, and you don’t have to turn on the heater to activate the fuel pump, you’re doing awright.
Ha ha, that is about right. Not quite there yet, but I do have a convoluted method for making the rumbles. So much so, that it's only suitable for putting around the radio ranch and barely that. If you stall, you have to return to the button of fun to get funning again. Amazing how fast it drinks up that one gallon "fuel cell". At least it all shuts off with the key....
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This can never see the pavement like this. But it enables me to move it hither and yaw. Oh yeah, more punchlist
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1976dully

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Just done some research. Apparently here in MO, I can register my truck with a tag of the same year as the truck and forego the yearly inspection! Just bought a '76 18k MO truck tag on ebay, and I'll have to submit the proper form, and all will be good!
 

fofiddyfo

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Had to replace the tank selector valve last/this weekend. What a pain in the arse! The old one was leaking and dripping THROUGH the 6-port wiring harness connection :oops:

Now both tanks, sending units, and all rubber fuel lines along with the selector valve are brand spanking new.

Wonder what the next item to break will be!

Then I took the dog and each of my sons for rides thru the neighborhood. My older boy said “I can’t wait to drive this thing!”! :gr_grin:
 

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PrairieDrifter

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Just done some research. Apparently here in MO, I can register my truck with a tag of the same year as the truck and forego the yearly inspection! Just bought a '76 18k MO truck tag on ebay, and I'll have to submit the proper form, and all will be good!
My state has the same system, but our year by year plates ended in 75 or 76.

But we also have antique plates for 40 years or older vehicles, that's a one time like $20 dollar charge and you get a permanent plate with no tags and you don't have to renew it. There's also no restrictions, like mileage or use restrictions. Also transferable plates.

I got a matching set of basically new 48 plates for my 48 gmc. Got em from an old timer, had em on his shop wall, pretty cool.

All of the ND 48 plates have that weird smear look going on, I looked at quite a few of em. A shame, but kind of cool at the same time.
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