Working over a motor

[shiftpro]

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dual-plane-intake-manifold-comparisons/

 

[Dutch Rutter]

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dual-plane-intake-manifold-comparisons/

I just found that same article. Good info for sure! I hope to not have too large of gap when I start assembling it all but we shall see. I've never thought about using multiple beads of the right stuff but that is a great idea. I've also never liked using the included front and rear gaskets be it rubber or cork, always just used sealer and its worked very well. The Right Stuff should work better then the orange goo I used during the first build up of this block.

Getting pretty excited about hearing back from the machine shop, hopefully it wont be a huge cost, but I feel a good machine shop is where you should happily spend some money.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Called the shop today as I have not heard anything and was getting impatient about it. it has not received much attention yet at all. But he was able to tell me that my crank will need to be turned because the connecting rod surfaces are out of round. Since my crank is already been ground down .10 would I be better off buying a new crank? I was seeing Scat and Eagle OEM replacement types around $180-$220 granted I would still take it in with the rods to be balanced.

Other then that he was not able to tell me anything else about it which is kind of disappointing as its been there for almost 3 weeks now.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I'm not as savvy about cranks being out of round, but it is springtime and machine shops are busy from everyone taking advantage of the warmer temperatures. I know when I took in a set of heads in '17, it took a lot longer than I was comfortable with, because I ultimately had no time to road test before taking off to Texas.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I'm not as savvy about cranks being out of round, but it is springtime and machine shops are busy from everyone taking advantage of the warmer temperatures. I know when I took in a set of heads in '17, it took a lot longer than I was comfortable with, because I ultimately had no time to road test before taking off to Texas.

Unfortunately for me this location will be closing at the start of next month and they will be shipping all of the work to their other location which is another 30 minutes away from me. But that is just going to be what it is and will most likely take even longer. I'm really hoping that they don't end up loosing any of my parts in the moving process.
For this though I am more curious about fitment/performance/reliability out of the OEM worked over crank vs. a new aftermarket (granted cheaper brand) crank.

I have heard somewhere that you really only want to take a crank down to .20 under before breaking one becomes an issue. Is this about correct?
I will also be asking the shops opinion whenever they get into it a bit more, and actually give me a price for their needed work.

 

[4WDKC]

I replaced my crank with an aftermarket one because it wasnt much more expensive than turning a stick one. If I were to do it again I would have gotten the forged crank and internal balancing.

 

[dvdswan]

Just a tid bit, you should mark you caps with a number punch or number of dots (mark the matching rod as well). Just in case the box tips.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

@4WDKC Thanks for the input. This is pretty much what I've been debating on doing. With the forged it does bring a heavier price of course, is it really worth it if not trying to get 500HP+ and not adding a super or turbo charger?

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Just a tid bit, you should mark you caps with a number punch or number of dots (mark the matching rod as well). Just in case the box tips.

Also very good info here. I did use a punch on all of the caps when I was assembling everything long ago. However, I did notice that I neglected the rods and pistons so I made so to do that before I dropped it all of at the shop. He also has my longer push rods (in order) and lifters (also in order but will be getting replaced anyway)

 

[Dutch Rutter]

After a search I found my answer to "is forged worth it" and from this at least it looks it is very much so if not encouraged to do so anymore.

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=85/prd85.htm

 

[shiftpro]

@4WDKC Thanks for the input. This is pretty much what I've been debating on doing. With the forged it does bring a heavier price of course, is it really worth it if not trying to get 500HP+ and not adding a super or turbo charger?

No it's not. Casting and materials have improved if you're thinking of buying new.
If it was mine, everything is pointing to a new crank and when I buy a new crank I go stroker. I actually will look for an excuse to stroke an engine so maybe I'm I'm biased just a little...(but in a good way!).

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Gotcha, so my think is like this, since I'm not building a power house, turbo or supercharged monster motor I can get by without a forged rotating assembly. Granted going forged would not hurt anything and would get that piece of mind and future upgrade potential.

I would sure love to go with a 383 stroker but I'm not to sure of whats all involved in doing something like that. I am sure it get pretty involved with machine work.

 

[4WDKC]

@4WDKC Thanks for the input. This is pretty much what I've been debating on doing. With the forged it does bring a heavier price of course, is it really worth it if not trying to get 500HP+ and not adding a super or turbo charger?

not up front but in two years if you decide to start hot rodding it you might, I know I do.

Gotcha, so my think is like this, since I'm not building a power house, turbo or supercharged monster motor I can get by without a forged rotating assembly. Granted going forged would not hurt anything and would get that piece of mind and future upgrade potential.

I would sure love to go with a 383 stroker but I'm not to sure of whats all involved in doing something like that. I am sure it get pretty involved with machine work.

new crank, new rods, new pistons, new rings, engine machine to cylinder possible to clear crank and rods. calculating what parts are needed to give you the compression ratio needed for pump gas, selecting a new cam to get desired results and possible stall convertor.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

This is getting a little ridiculous. After the first napa shop, closed its doors and didnt do anything in a month, I retrieved my parts. Took it to two other machine shops about an hours drive away one being the napa home shop, all of them turned it away saying they were full up for three weeks and they won't bother working on it anyway because apparently it'd be easier to buy a crate. Wth is going on with this industry?!

 

[idahovette]

This is getting a little ridiculous. After the first napa shop, closed its doors and didnt do anything in a month, I retrieved my parts. Took it to two other machine shops about an hours drive away one being the napa home shop, all of them turned it away saying they were full up for three weeks and they won't bother working on it anyway because apparently it'd be easier to buy a crate. Wth is going on with this industry?!

REALLY !! They didn't want your money??? What the heck is wrong with these people??