Wiring 'factory' gauges 'directly'???

[Dan Brown]

Actually, the one I built (see picture above) will have two Deutsch connectors to disconnect the gauge wiring, no more difficult than removing the original gauge panes. Shouldn't be all that difficult if designed right.

 

[Dan Brown]

Actually, the one I built (see picture above) will have two Deutsch connectors to disconnect the gauge wiring Shouldn't be all that difficult if designed right.

 

[Raider L]

@Dan Brown,

I originally did the exact same thing on my '74 C10 I was customizing, and used Auto Mater gauges to, Sport Comp's. Except I didn't use the old main connector plug at all. I cut it off and wired my gauges directly to the wires themselves. I soldered the two ends together and put shrink wrap over the splice. @7900 Blazer, you may have to do that also on a couple of the wires to make sure you have a solid connection, and bypass the main plug altogether but just on whichever ones you see that would work better.

 

[Raider L]

@Dan Brown,

I used a piece of 3/16" Aluminum sheet and like you, bent it just like the original plastic dash is. I cut the holes like I wanted the gauges to be located, instead of like yours I had two Fuel gauges, one fuel pressure so I could tell if the fuel pump went out because the pointer will fall to zero, and will show no pressure while cranking the engine. And the rest like you've got. But then I came across Auto Meter's "in dash" gauges set and changed my mind and cut the holes to accept the gauges in the plastic dash and installed all the gauges in the plastic dash. Auto Meter's "in dash" tach and speedo, 3 5/8" I think, fit perfectly in the original center holes in the factory dash.
@7900 Blazer, What gauges are you using anyway?

 

[7900_Blazer]

@7900_Blazer

I have to ask, why do you want to do this in the first place? I have some experience with factory gauges and rewiring and whatnot and it seems like a pain in the butt. Also, it would make it more difficult to pull the cluster out in the future having each gauge wired directly rather than using the facorty connector.

That's a great question. I really don't like driving without a tachometer, and I don't like the tach's strapped to the column... so I only had two options:
1. spend $899 or so to buy a complete aftermarket gauge cluster
2. or retro-fit mine... - specifically, moving the fuel gauge to where the clock would have been (lower left) and replacing the huge fuel gauge with a large tach 'front and center'.

I picked up a small fuel gauge and large tach from LMC.. but the challenge was getting everything to fit AND work.

I also purchased from LMC the printed circuit board that was supposedly for a '75 'with' tach... but would then need to re-pin the gauge cluster plug...

Even after re-pinning, I could not get either the fuel or the temp gauge to work correctly within the printed circuit board - so I wired them direct.

Now I have a 'factory' looking gauge cluster but really am only using the printed circuit board to manage dash lights.

 

[7900_Blazer]

I'm restoring a 1974 K10 and built my own gauge panel out of Aluminum sheet and put Autometer gauges in it. My 74 originally had printed circuits, which I'd bet your 75 did, too. I don't recall if the original gauges had the capability of being wired directly. The oil pressure gauge was mechanical. You can buy pre-made gauge panels, but they are expensive. Attached is a picture of my panel.

You must be registered for see images attach

gauge panels for your Blazer, but they are expensive.

Looks awesome!!!

 

[dsteelejr]

That's a great question. I really don't like driving without a tachometer, and I don't like the tach's strapped to the column... so I only had two options:
1. spend $899 or so to buy a complete aftermarket gauge cluster
2. or retro-fit mine... - specifically, moving the fuel gauge to where the clock would have been (lower left) and replacing the huge fuel gauge with a large tach 'front and center'.

I picked up a small fuel gauge and large tach from LMC.. but the challenge was getting everything to fit AND work.

I also purchased from LMC the printed circuit board that was supposedly for a '75 'with' tach... but would then need to re-pin the gauge cluster plug...

Even after re-pinning, I could not get either the fuel or the temp gauge to work correctly within the printed circuit board - so I wired them direct.

Now I have a 'factory' looking gauge cluster but really am only using the printed circuit board to manage dash lights.

$899 is a damn good reason to do it the way you are, but LMC sells the factory style tachometer conversion kit for $300. Where does $899 come from?

My ‘80 K25 is a base model that had idiot lights. I bought a tachometer conversion kit from LMC and also had to buy the three small gauges for voltage, temp, and oil. Even then it was only about $450.

 

[7900_Blazer]

$899 is a damn good reason to do it the way you are, but LMC sells the factory style tachometer conversion kit for $300. Where does $899 come from?

My ‘80 K25 is a base model that had idiot lights. I bought a tachometer conversion kit from LMC and also had to buy the three small games for voltage, temp, and oil. Even then it was only about $450.

The tach conversion kit on LMC is for '78-'87 - and I think there are some specific models (mine included) for which there are some issues between volts and amps, so I opted not to spend the $300.

The $899 (actually $999 now that go look) is for a complete gauge cluster set from LMC (other folks provide those as well).

I think I ended up spending a couple of hundred on a large tach gauge and small fuel gauge plus the tach wiring harness.

Not perfect... but hopefully with get me through the summer trip I have planned, and then I can save my pennies and buy a full gauge cluster.

 

[Dan Brown]

I used all Autometer Pro Comp liquid filled 2 5/8 inch gauges and the 5 inch tach and speedometer. By the way, if anybody is interested, I have the original speedometer and fuel gauge (center mount) I'll sell for $75.00 for both. LMC gets $150.00 for both. Let me know if anybody is interested and I'll put some pictures on the site.

 

[cold2case]

I'm actually going through the same issues. Truck was a factory 84 with 6cyl but now has a 327. Apparently wire colors have changed through the years due to splicing from the previous owner and early amateur decisions on my part. I have the LMC tach kit and bought all new remaining gauges. The tach and speedo were easy but I'm having trouble finding the proper wires and working sending units for the temp, volts, and oil pressure. I was able to re-pin the cluster to get the turn signals, and bright indicators working, also added LEDs but when I click the turn signal on while the headlights are on the whole cluster blinks.

In the next week or so I'm just going to keep trying to trace wires from the gauge conector to the bulk head and into the engine bay to see if I can get them all working because I hate the aftermarket gauges hanging off the bottom of my dash.

 

[7900_Blazer]

I'm actually going through the same issues. Truck was a factory 84 with 6cyl but now has a 327. Apparently wire colors have changed through the years due to splicing from the previous owner and early amateur decisions on my part. I have the LMC tach kit and bought all new remaining gauges. The tach and speedo were easy but I'm having trouble finding the proper wires and working sending units for the temp, volts, and oil pressure. I was able to re-pin the cluster to get the turn signals, and bright indicators working, also added LEDs but when I click the turn signal on while the headlights are on the whole cluster blinks.

In the next week or so I'm just going to keep trying to trace wires from the gauge conector to the bulk head and into the engine bay to see if I can get them all working because I hate the aftermarket gauges hanging off the bottom of my dash.

One of the things that helped me the most was using the continuity feature on my multi-meter and a long 18 gauger wire with two alligator clips.

My multimeter has a tone it emits when you have continuity clipping the alligator clip to one end, then cliping the other end to one of the leads on my multimeter... then using the other lead to 'find' the matching wire from inside the engine bay back around to the dash was so much easier.

 

[dsteelejr]

The tach conversion kit on LMC is for '78-'87 - and I think there are some specific models (mine included) for which there are some issues between volts and amps, so I opted not to spend the $300.

The $899 (actually $999 now that go look) is for a complete gauge cluster set from LMC (other folks provide those as well).

I think I ended up spending a couple of hundred on a large tach gauge and small fuel gauge plus the tach wiring harness.

Not perfect... but hopefully with get me through the summer trip I have planned, and then I can save my pennies and buy a full gauge cluster.

Good deal. I forgot that up to and including ‘75 GM used a mechanical oil pressure gauge and an ammeter instead of a volt meter. I like to have both ammeter and volt meter, but you’d be better off with a volt meter. The wiring is super easy since it’s simply powered by ignition on switched power.

 

[Dan Brown]

In my opinion, a Volt Meter is easier to wire, as a Ammeter usually needs at least 12 and maybe 10 gauge wire to mount it unless it's a shunted Ammeter.