Wiper delay not working right, works on low and high

[echo7bravo]

I tried the above trick in bypassing the pulse board and now low and high work great on the first switch of the stalk instead of randomly. The wipers also return to park everytime which they werent doing before.

Ordered a new AC Delco pulse board. Will report back in a couple days when I get it.

You should order me one too!

 

[Crispy]

You should order me one too!

Kinda pricey arent they? How about this, you send me some cash, I'll order you one, test it out for you, and you can have the one I pulled off the burb? Deal? lol

 

[echo7bravo]

Dang! That sounds sweet. Will $300 cover it? LOL

I'm going to just run mine without for a bit. What kills me is my brother-in-law is a dealership technician and even buying parts at his cost (not usually for discontinued squarebody parts), I still feel like I'm getting taken. And it's always the simple little things that cost the most. LOL

 

[Crispy]

Dang! That sounds sweet. Will $300 cover it? LOL

I'm going to just run mine without for a bit. What kills me is my brother-in-law is a dealership technician and even buying parts at his cost (not usually for discontinued squarebody parts), I still feel like I'm getting taken. And it's always the simple little things that cost the most. LOL

Yea, I can let it go for $300. Thats the forum discounted price though. lol

For a feature that wont get used all that often, bypassing the module is definitely the cheapest solution but theres me. The guy who will get angry his delay doesnt work the one time he goes to use it. Dunno what prices you were getting but mine cost me $61 shipped from rock auto with the discount code. It was like a bandaid, I just pulled the trigger on the order and got it over with ASAP.

Tell me about the little things costing more, I have a 99 Trans Am that I needed a few odds and ends for to pretty her up a bit:
Both door panels (notorious for cracking) - $150 each
Dash pad (also a cracker) - $120
Tail lights - (i just needed one but I wanted a matching aged set) - $250

Theres also this little rubber seal that goes in between the body and t bar of the t top roof. If you find someone with it thats willing to sell it you might as well refinance your mortgage. Needless to say, I dont have that piece.

 

[echo7bravo]

I know I will give in and buy the module. I just have so much going on right now and can't even drive the old girl. My interior is completely gutted. (fixing everything inside) Ended up breaking bolts off for seat and have to drill and tap. Once I get it all put back together I will probably bay a new turn signal stalk (without cruise) and a pulse module.

Like you....when I want it to work, I'm going to want it to work.

 

[Crispy]

Update time.

Installed the new pulse board and its still the same operation as before. I was able to spend some time with it today and have the following observations

The wipers operate perfectly in HI
The were slow to engage in LO but I lubed up the toothed wheel that drives the wiper arms and proper operation has been established.
I jumped the terminals of the parking switch and got no operation.
Removed parking switch and cleaned terminals. No change in operation after cleaning contacts.
Intermittent speed works but is very jerky and super slow even at the fastest intermittent speed. The delay in the wipers is delayed and not fluid. So it stops after every delay then starts again.

I thought the pulse board was expensive, the damn wiper switch is $85!!!

 

[Snoots]

I ain't the smartest guy in the world but, have you checked the ground connections from the body to the wiper motor? Mine was acting goofy once and after a lot of aspirin I found that the metal strap from the motor to the body was almost in 2 pieces. Changed it out for a braided line and, viola! No mo problems.

 

[Crispy]

I ain't the smartest guy in the world but, have you checked the ground connections from the body to the wiper motor? Mine was acting goofy once and after a lot of aspirin I found that the metal strap from the motor to the body was almost in 2 pieces. Changed it out for a braided line and, viola! No mo problems.

By the time I found out what it was you were talking about, the rain had come and I stopped working. I'll give it a go this weekend. Thankfully the Burb isnt my daily.

Thanks for the suggestion also.

 

[Crispy]

Wanted to update the thread.

Tried a wiper delay module, no change.
Wiper switch from the column, no change.
Verified condition of wiper motor ground.
Cleaned and lubed wiper motor linkage and gear.
New wipers, just because the ones on were old style and I like the beam style.

Currently the pulse board is bypassed and for now I am getting regular, albeit slow, low and high speed operation. Its staying the way it is for now as I have a ton of other things occupying my time and wipers will not be one of them. Thanks to everyone who helped!

 

[donnieray]

This is a great write up with a ton of information. Im having the same problems and before seeing this I had already bought a new wiper motor and signal lever. With my work schedule I get parts m-f and work on trucks on the weekend. Im sure even if I have to get the pulse module I will get it fixed and anytime I replace a 35 year old part I feel ok about it. I love this forum.

 

[hatzie]

This is a great write up with a ton of information. I'm having the same problems and before seeing this I had already bought a new wiper motor and signal lever. With my work schedule I get parts m-f and work on trucks on the weekend. I'm sure even if I have to get the pulse module I will get it fixed and anytime I replace a 35-year-old part I feel ok about it. I love this forum.

The signal lever (stalk) is not the wiper switch. It's just the handle to control the switch. The actual wiper switch is in the column.

You can test the delay portion of the column switch with a multimeter set to 1M resistance range.

The circuit 96 wires for the resistance to control the 15598496 delay/pulse module are in the very outside terminal positions of the wiper switch to module plug. Usually the wires are brown but it depends on who made the switch. When you plug the delay switch directly to the cab harness plug the circuit 96 delay resistor terminals are not connected to anything.

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More resistance gives a longer time between pulses. Less resistance gives a shorter time between pulses.

For the purposes of this test, we'll call the longest white line on the stalk Delay Speed 1 and the short line Delay Speed 5.
The Ohmages below are correct from the 1986 service manual.
The resistance should change smoothly or in steps with no dropouts. If the switch is stepped each step shouldn't vary by more than @50-100Ω when you switch away from that position and back to it. Steps or smooth depends on your switch type... 5 step or variable resistance... It's been a while since I had an 84-91 square with delay wipers. My T400 is a stepped switch.

1. Delay Speed 1
   • The resistance should be: 500K-Ω.
2. Delay Speeds 2-4
   • Less than 500K and more than 50Ω
3. Delay Speed 5
   • The resistance should be: 0-50Ω.

 

[donnieray]

The signal lever (stalk) is not the wiper switch. It's just the handle to control the switch. The actual wiper switch is in the column.

You can test the delay portion of the column switch with a multimeter set to 1M resistance range.

The circuit 96 wires for the resistance to control the AC Delco D6355A delay/pulse module are in the very outside terminal positions of the wiper switch to module plug. Usually the wires are brown but it depends on who made the switch. When you plug the delay switch directly to the cab harness plug the circuit 96 delay resistor terminals are not connected to anything.

You must be registered for see images attach

More resistance gives a longer time between pulses. Less resistance gives a shorter time between pulses.

For the purposes of this test, we'll call the longest white line on the stalk Delay Speed 1 and the short line Delay Speed 5.
The Ohmages below are correct from the 1986 service manual.
The resistance should change smoothly or in steps with no dropouts. If the switch is stepped each step shouldn't vary by more than @50-100Ω. Steps or smooth depends on your switch type... 5 step or variable resistance... It's been a while since I had an 84-91 square with delay wipers. My T400 is a stepped switch.

1. Delay Speed 1
   • The resistance should be: 500K-Ω.
2. Delay Speeds 2-4
   • Less than 500K and more than 50Ω
3. Delay Speed 5
   • The resistance should be: 0-50Ω.

Thanks hatzie. I'll be out there with my Fluke tomorrow or Sunday. My hi/lo beam switch has been acting up as well so I was planning on dropping the column to replace that anyway. I may wait until I can get a wiper switch and change both. Just do some proper troubleshooting tomorrow. I'll post my results.

 

[hatzie]

The dimmer is a bit easier than the wiper or turnsignal switch. It's not buried in the column.
The dimmer is mounted on the outside of the column and run by a rod similar to the ignition switch.

These are 1970's & 80's electronics so the delay boards are likely through hole discrete components that can be removed and replaced.
If they aren't potted boards I believe they can probably be resurrected with a replacement FET and heatsink paste or by replacing whatever other dead discrete component is on the board.

If anyone has a dead delay unit they'd be willing to box up I'd like to autopsy one and post my findings with pictures.
I've been able to resurrect several 78-83 style delay boxes for buddies.
I'd e-mail a PDF of a pre-paid shipping label to the donator so it only costs the time to box it and drop it with FedEx or USPS.

 

[donnieray]

The dimmer is a bit easier than the wiper or turnsignal switch. It's not buried in the column.
The dimmer is mounted on the outside of the column and run by a rod similar to the ignition switch.

These are 1970's & 80's electronics so the delay boards are likely through hole discrete components that can be removed and replaced.
If they aren't potted boards I believe they can probably be resurrected with a replacement FET and heatsink paste or by replacing whatever other dead discrete component is on the board.

If anyone has a dead delay unit they'd be willing to box up I'd like to autopsy one and post my findings with pictures.
I've been able to resurrect several 78-83 style delay boxes for buddies.
I'd e-mail a PDF of a pre-paid shipping label to the donator so it only costs the time to box it and drop it with FedEx or USPS.

If I end up replacing mine I will gladly send the old one to you. I'll be posting progress or lack of. And I still plan to change out the parts I already have.

 

[hatzie]

Cool. Let me know.