Why does my door have slop?

[87ChevyR10]

So, a couple weekends ago, I finally got the newish door pins to fully seat. Even though the door cleanly shuts, it has slack/slop in the door latch. It's not an issue until I hit bumps and such, then it sounds like I didn't shut the door completely. The striker doesn't have the plastic bushing or whatever it's called on it. If I put a pex one on, would the take away the slack? The bottom rubber door stop is still in place, too.

Ideas?

 

[DanMcG]

do the trick with the pex, you'll be surprised what a difference it makes.

 

[glockholiday]

When I put the plastic tubing on it made it soooooo much better to close and latch the door, no more slamming. But my door still rattles a little too over bumps and my pins are tight.

 

[Georgeb]

Replace the door weatherstrip and adjust your striker so the door is tight.

 

[glockholiday]

No argument on the weather stripping but how do I adjust the striker?

 

[Georgeb]

Draw a circle around it and then loosen it up with a torx bit from the end. Move it towards the insde a little.

 

[glockholiday]

I've been reading about it since our last post and it seems I could drop the nut inside the door frame? And mine being a Suburban I'd be extra screwed is that right? Pick ups have a removable panel? I know I would only need to back it off half a turn or so to move it but I'm just not sure since I don't know what it looks like on the inside of that striker.

 

[Georgeb]

I think you can drop it but you won if your only going a half turn. Not sure if it is captured on the suburbans or not.

 

[joecal]

If you just loosen it a little it should be fine for the adjustment. I don't think the nut ( I think it's a metal plate)would fall off. I agree with installing the plastic piece, mine were missing too, and it made a big difference. I had to slam my driver's door to shut it when I got the truck, now it shuts with very little effort.