Which 350 setup would you buy to replace your 305?

[malibuman402]

that's a 96 tahoe serpantine with adapter plates to install it on the bb.

 

[4WDKC]

Figure out the approximate hp and torque you are looking for and order the 350 crate that matches up closest in your price range. As others said all the little stuff adds up in cost and time and also voids your warranty. That blueprint engine is 373/400 runs 87 octane and comes with 50,000 mile warranty.

^ this right here because if you are going to mod it there wont be a warranty and makes more sense to rebuild it at that point.

 

[4WDKC]

I have been going back and forth with driveline for my K5.
First I thought replace the dead 305 with a 350 (has a 700r4 and np208).
Then I dove into the LS 6.0/4L65e/NP241 setup. I was almost sold on this setup but now I read this tread.

My 87 R10 has it original TBI setup and trans (350/700r4) so that one will NEVER go LS.
Was just thinking since my K5 engine and probably trans are shot I could explore modern options.

I'll look at the crate L31R and blueprint ones.

Just not sure at this point...

Had a stock one in my truck and the turd only got louder over 3k rpm and barely accelerated. Vortec heads, cam messing with tuning the old system and wish I had just spent the money swapping in my 454.

 

[Frankenchevy]

These are from my build thread. I just wanted to see what the accessory brackets looked like mounted.

My l31r with sniper. Also running Holley dual sync distributor for ignition control. Installing it next week.

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[82sbshortbed]

Very nice! @Frankenchevy

 

[RoryH19]

Had a stock one in my truck and the turd only got louder over 3k rpm and barely accelerated. Vortec heads, cam messing with tuning the old system and wish I had just spent the money swapping in my 454.

My TBI setup is fine in my half ton p/u with stock setup and wheels. No problem keeping up with highway traffic.
Now the k5 has a lift and 33's so it needs more torq/hp to move it down the road. The 3.08 in the rear diff doesn't help but that can be changed.

 

[4WDKC]

My TBI setup is fine in my half ton p/u with stock setup and wheels. No problem keeping up with highway traffic.
Now the k5 has a lift and 33's so it needs more torq/hp to move it down the road. The 3.08 in the rear diff doesn't help but that can be changed.

I thought mine would be fine to, I have 305/70/17 (34.5") and 410s. My speedo is correct but the truck is severely lacking. It's better than it was with 33s and 342s.

 

[rpcraft]

no ls for me. on your budget you can buy the base 350 crate, swap the cam,put vortec heads and intake, a carb of your choice and make 350 hp +/- and 350+ torque. check out roadkill garage on youtube as friedburg has done this build and has all of the numbers for you and all of the prices. screw the ls. maybe i'll lose some friends but the ls swap doesn't make sense to me unless you have deep pockets or a horsepower addiction.

The LS swap isn't so much deep pockets as it is a catalyst to spend more. I do agree though in the sense that folks will give you bad advice that can, and most likely will cost you money you could have spent elsewhere or more wisely, and then there are the guys who will say you can do it for 1000 bucks, lol, but they are usually not including all the side stuff they bought and adapters or whatever else and it seems like there is always more than one road to a solution, combined with the fact that every truck is a little different, so sometimes another persons solution doesn't quite fit the template for what you need to do.


Needless to say I am in the middle of a LS swap and more but that was my choice and the rest of what I am spending is to have my Jimmy looking beyond new, and also the fact that if I ever run out of stuff to do to it I would be surprised....


All things considered though for a quick return to road-worthiness I feel the L31R crate motor is better money spent than on the cheaper Goodwrench 350 option so far as stock performance with goes if the warranty matters. I only say this because it's performance and reliability have greater potential and also changing to Vortec heads and other accouterments would void the warranty you get with the GW350 motor (if I am incorrect I apologize but I think it will). If you start with the L31R you can run it stock with greater power than the bare bones GW350 and no real need to worry about a rebuild when the warranty goes, and at that point a simple change of cam and a little bit of headwork (screw in rocker studs for better ratio rockers) will practically cost no more than the DIY kit and tools to do those things. The one piece rear main seal and 4 bolt mains also makes it appealing if you want to dig deep for more power.

Just my $.02 FWIW.

 

[rpcraft]

I thought mine would be fine to, I have 305/70/17 (34.5") and 410s. My speedo is correct but the truck is severely lacking. It's better than it was with 33s and 342s.

Tires that big definitely need more gearing. People things 4.10's are the miracle gear but once you go that big you are starting to need 4.56 and higher, but that also depends on if you are using an OD trans and also where you are driving and how much torque you are producing. I've got my rig lined up for 4.10's on 33's with a 4l60E and that is just planning on daily driver duties as a cruiser once it is done. Might be a little rev happy but LS motors prefer a little higher RPM than the old motors.

 

[rpcraft]

These are from my build thread. I just wanted to see what the accessory brackets looked like mounted.

My l31r with sniper. Also running Holley dual sync distributor for ignition control. Installing it next week.

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Bingo, that looks like a great combo... a Setup like that makes me regret going with the LS setup a little, just because it makes me think I could be driving it right now, but to be honest, I'll be just as happy when mine's burning fuel again, lol.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I think the l31r straight from gm, as mine is, only carries its warranty if installed in a vehicle that was originally an l31r.

As far as I know, the reman crates carry their warranty as long as you follow the installation instructions; such as having the correct stall tc, etc.

 

[shiftpro]

Tires that big definitely need more gearing. People things 4.10's are the miracle gear but once you go that big you are starting to need 4.56 and higher, but that also depends on if you are using an OD trans and also where you are driving and how much torque you are producing. I've got my rig lined up for 4.10's on 33's with a 4l60E and that is just planning on daily driver duties as a cruiser once it is done. Might be a little rev happy but LS motors prefer a little higher RPM than the old motors.

Yups... always gear lower when using an OD.

 

[4WDKC]

Tires that big definitely need more gearing. People things 4.10's are the miracle gear but once you go that big you are starting to need 4.56 and higher, but that also depends on if you are using an OD trans and also where you are driving and how much torque you are producing. I've got my rig lined up for 4.10's on 33's with a 4l60E and that is just planning on daily driver duties as a cruiser once it is done. Might be a little rev happy but LS motors prefer a little higher RPM than the old motors.

IT does have 700r4 in it and I dont plan on sticking with the 35s, I bought 4 bfg 305/70r17s with good tread and H2 wheels for $300. When they get replaced I will be going to 33" and maybe removing the lift.

 

[Catbox]

If mine didn't already have a big block in it, I would be looking at the L31 as a good replacement.

I like the idea of having the roller cam in there from the start.
No more worrying about flat cams from the crappy oil with that.