Whats you gas mileage on your squarebody truck?

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wagonman

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Got 19.5 mpg on the last trip to Oregon.2800 rpm with 373s 700r4 350 carb and 33x12.50 bfg all terrains.Thats the hwy average around town I dont even check.Man I miss my Truck.
 

HotRodPC

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Damn, the wind was at your back. That's good mpg.
 

crazy4offroad

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HR I bet once you get that A-833 in one of your trucks you could break 20 mpg! :cheers:
 

HotRodPC

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HR I bet once you get that A-833 in one of your trucks you could break 20 mpg! :cheers:

Maybe if it were in a 2wd I think it would be possible, but pushing an extra axle and carrying the extra weight or an axle and Tcase, I doubt it. I'd be ecstatic to get 14 city - 17 hwy. I know it'll do better. It shouldn't be hard at all to turn a little 4 speed. No hp loss to the wheel either should certianly make improvements. I'd just about like to do an accurate mpg test now with the Th350 in the truck, then swap to the 700r4 and get accurate mpg, then put the a833 in it and get an accurate test. I'd expect 3 mpg better from the 700r4 to the a833.
 

crazy4offroad

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I'd just about like to do an accurate mpg test now with the Th350 in the truck, then swap to the 700r4 and get accurate mpg, then put the a833 in it and get an accurate test. I'd expect 3 mpg better from the 700r4 to the a833.
THAT would be a good comparison for this thread. People posting whatever their mpg is and comparing them to other trucks is not a good comparison, considering how widely people modify their vehicles, from stock to street racer.
 

SAATR

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I dont know what it is. My teacher doesnt know either. I replaced all the stuff that one replaces when having a miss.

What brand of cap and rotor did you use? These engines are extremely picky when it comes to ignition parts, especially the cap and rotor. I generally recommend the best you can afford, with ACDelco if at all possible. I've seen the cheaper units, including some of the bigger national brands, miss right out of the box. It would be a good idea to check the dist drive gear as they do have a tendency to knife edge over time, even at your mileage. If you do pull it, be aware that you need a scanner that can run the GM cam sync test to set the timing. It has to be set at 0 plus or minus 2 degrees, and can be easily gotten out of adjustment even if you've marked and realigned it well. If the ignition checks out, the fuel system is the next major caveat of the Vortecs. Check that KOEO fuel pressure is over 60 psi and KOER pressure is no less than 55 psi. With ot running, bring the rpm's up and ensure that it doesn't drop out of spec. If all is well, check that the system is holding pressure by cycling the key a few times, then turning it off. If it falls quickly to zero, you have an issue. Clamp off the return line (it's stainless braided rubber behind the engine) and repeat the test. If it doesn't drop, your regulator is faulty. If it does, check deadhead pressure by pulling the line off the fuel filter and adapting the gauge to it (you can use FI rated fuel hose and clamps). You should have 80 to 90 psi, and with the key off it should not drop. If it does, your pump is getting loose and should be replaced. If deadhead is good, and you have a drop even with the return plugged, the it's either the regulator or a leaking injector poppet, both of which the Vortecs are infamous for. Recommendation here is to get the upgraded Delphi MPFI spider and replace everything. It costs around 267 plus gaskets. If that's out of the budget, remove the upper intake leaving the spider in place. Pull all of the poppets out of their holes in the intake, reconnect the fuel lines, and turn the key to the run position. Looks for drips. If you don't see one immediately, cycle the key a few times. You should see a fuel leak at the offending injector, or from the regulator. Replace the defective units and roll on. Hope this helps.
 

bobehud

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About 12/14 mpg.Yeah i know but i have grown very attached to the ol' girl.

which considering its a carbed 454 with 4.10 gears im not really complaining.
 

89Suburban

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What brand of cap and rotor did you use? These engines are extremely picky when it comes to ignition parts, especially the cap and rotor. I generally recommend the best you can afford, with ACDelco if at all possible. I've seen the cheaper units, including some of the bigger national brands, miss right out of the box. It would be a good idea to check the dist drive gear as they do have a tendency to knife edge over time, even at your mileage. If you do pull it, be aware that you need a scanner that can run the GM cam sync test to set the timing. It has to be set at 0 plus or minus 2 degrees, and can be easily gotten out of adjustment even if you've marked and realigned it well. If the ignition checks out, the fuel system is the next major caveat of the Vortecs. Check that KOEO fuel pressure is over 60 psi and KOER pressure is no less than 55 psi. With ot running, bring the rpm's up and ensure that it doesn't drop out of spec. If all is well, check that the system is holding pressure by cycling the key a few times, then turning it off. If it falls quickly to zero, you have an issue. Clamp off the return line (it's stainless braided rubber behind the engine) and repeat the test. If it doesn't drop, your regulator is faulty. If it does, check deadhead pressure by pulling the line off the fuel filter and adapting the gauge to it (you can use FI rated fuel hose and clamps). You should have 80 to 90 psi, and with the key off it should not drop. If it does, your pump is getting loose and should be replaced. If deadhead is good, and you have a drop even with the return plugged, the it's either the regulator or a leaking injector poppet, both of which the Vortecs are infamous for. Recommendation here is to get the upgraded Delphi MPFI spider and replace everything. It costs around 267 plus gaskets. If that's out of the budget, remove the upper intake leaving the spider in place. Pull all of the poppets out of their holes in the intake, reconnect the fuel lines, and turn the key to the run position. Looks for drips. If you don't see one immediately, cycle the key a few times. You should see a fuel leak at the offending injector, or from the regulator. Replace the defective units and roll on. Hope this helps.

Welcome aboard? Some compettition for HR, lol...
 

lusktommy

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In my 1984 C10 with the mean as hell 350 and 3.08 posi and a 700R i was getting 20.8 on high way and around 14-15 in town
 

HotRodPC

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That's pretty damn good. I know some of the 6.2 diesel trucks get that, but wasn't aware 350's can do that good.
 

wildcatjason

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That's pretty damn good. I know some of the 6.2 diesel trucks get that, but wasn't aware 350's can do that good.

They don't. Just like my father in law that says he gets mid 20s in his 4.0 jeep. Whatever dude.
 

HotRodPC

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Welcome back Jason. Been awhile !!! :High 5:

I think sometimes people have inaccurate odo's and they read faster or more miles than actual.
 

foamypirate

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They don't. Just like my father in law that says he gets mid 20s in his 4.0 jeep. Whatever dude.

Aye. Even my 305/700R4/3.08s couldn't pull down 20. I barely hit 17.5 on my longest highway trip.
 

Camo

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Welcome back Jason. Been awhile !!! :High 5:

I think sometimes people have inaccurate odo's and they read faster or more miles than actual.

This happens alot. my crew showed 16, but compare that to real miles (gps) and it was closer to 13 at best.
 

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