What to replace while doing tie rods?

[tophat36]

Will be replacing my tie rods (inner and outer with sleeves), as well as idler arm and pitman arm. Should I knock out the lower ball joints what I’m at it? I don’t have it in me to deal with the upper ball joints because I believe they are original and will be riveted. Is that also the case for the lower ball joints?

Thanks in advance for your wisdom/insight!

 

[squaredeal91]

Are the ball joints worn and sloppy or have any play? I would check them and if there tight then grease them good. Maybe Check brakes and wheel bearings tho.

 

[fast 99]

2WD?

Way to check ball joints. Jack under control arm, with long bar pry up on bottom of the tire. Also check idler and pitman arm. If high miles inner control arm bushings should be inspected. Over the years when this type front end starts showing wear it's more than one part.

 

[tophat36]

Yeah it’s possible on the driver side about ball joint, need to jack it up again. How do you tell if it’s the lower or upper? Definitely the tie rods. How do I check wheel bearings?

 

[tophat36]

2WD?

Way to check ball joints. Jack under control arm, with long bar pry up on bottom of the tire. Also check idler and pitman arm. If high miles inner control arm bushings should be inspected. Over the years when this type front end starts showing wear it's more than one part.

Yup 2WD, I’ll be doing Pitman and Idler also. I watched a video about lower control arm bushings and I don’t have the ability to tear the truck apart and leave it that way bc I need the garage for the other car. Those bushing look really involved, I’d assume just replace the entire control arm with the bushings. Is that even an option or should replacing with something new be avoided. It’s got 110k miles which to me isn’t very high for a 40 yo truck.

 

[fast 99]

Have used new arms when both ball joints and bushings are bad. With labor it's cheaper for the customer and faster. Just be sure to do a proper inspection.

110k they should be ok but remember how old these vehicles are. The environment they were stored in has a lot to do with condition of rubber parts.

 

[tophat36]

Have used new arms when both ball joints and bushings are bad. With labor it's cheaper for the customer and faster. Just be sure to do a proper inspection.

110k they should be ok but remember how old these vehicles are. The environment they were stored in has a lot to do with condition of rubber parts.

Recommend any specific brands?

 

[fast 99]

If time and available I would use Rock auto, stay with higher quality brands like Moog, AC Delco, ect. Cheap suspension parts aren't worth the box they are in.

 

[tophat36]

If time and available I would use Rock auto, stay with higher quality brands like Moog, AC Delco, ect. Cheap suspension parts aren't worth the box they are in.

Yeah I only do Moog, Proforged, or AC Delco parts for this stuff. When you buy a complete control arm does it also include the bushings and all of that stuff? Is everything pressed in and installed to the control arm also? Seems easier to just replace it all and not have to fiddle with grinding stuff out and pressing things back in. Can you remove the control arms both upper and lower without removing either ball joint, that would be preferred for time.

 

[fast 99]

Control arms are usually complete w BJ and bushings.

Ball joints are attached to control arms so no.

Front springs on those are no joke.

If not done correctly can be very dangerous, a loaded gun.

If unsure of the procedure get some informed help.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Honestly if you're already doing TR/pitman/idler and wondering about everything else, I'd do it all. That was the first thing on my list when I bought my '85, rehabbed the whole front it at 104k. New, complete upper control arms are available and they come pre-assembled. I believe I got them off RockAuto. Everything else came from Orielly's, pitman/idler/center link/tie rods/lower balljoints and bushings for the lower control arms. Spring for the better balljoints for the LCAs, I had one separate on me using the cheapo house brand.

Be aware, there are no C10 lower control arms on the market (talking stock, not aftermarket tubulars). The only ones available are C20/30, so you'll have to rebuild yours and replacing the bushings is a HUGE PITA.

 

[tophat36]

Honestly if you're already doing TR/pitman/idler and wondering about everything else, I'd do it all. That was the first thing on my list when I bought my '85, rehabbed the whole front it at 104k. New, complete upper control arms are available and they come pre-assembled. I believe I got them off RockAuto. Everything else came from Orielly's, pitman/idler/center link/tie rods/lower balljoints and bushings for the lower control arms. Spring for the better balljoints for the LCAs, I had one separate on me using the cheapo house brand.

Be aware, there are no C10 lower control arms on the market (talking stock, not aftermarket tubulars). The only ones available are C20/30, so you'll have to rebuild yours and replacing the bushings is a HUGE PITA.

I’ve already bought the tie rods, idler, pitman, adjuster. I don’t buy parts from the auto parts stores generally. Since I have a 3/4 ton 2WD I think that makes it a C20 so should be good there. How will I know if the C20 controls arms are a stock version vs aftermarket?

 

[tophat36]

Control arms are usually complete w BJ and bushings.

Ball joints are attached to control arms so no.

Front springs on those are no joke.

If not done correctly can be very dangerous, a loaded gun.

If unsure of the procedure get some informed help.

Ok thanks, but regarding ball joints I guess I was asking if they need to be removed from the control arm before removing the control arm. Or can I just remove the control arms and not fiddle with the ball joints?

I have no desire to have that spring fly out and kill me, and am very aware of the risk when releasing the tension holding those in place. I have seen videos where they place a jack under the LCA…is it recommended to compress the spring somehow in addition to that. What is the safest method? Truck is stock height.

 

[TotalyHucked]

I’ve already bought the tie rods, idler, pitman, adjuster. I don’t buy parts from the auto parts stores generally. Since I have a 3/4 ton 2WD I think that makes it a C20 so should be good there. How will I know if the C20 controls arms are a stock version vs aftermarket?

Ahh, didn't realize we were talking about a C20. So yes, you can buy those arms that are available. They're just stamped steel, they look identical to what's on the truck now. When I referenced aftermarket, I meant tubular style arms.

 

[Camar068]

Agree with @TotalyHucked . While ur there do as much as you can afford including the front brakes and other suspension parts. If not split them up in thirds.....complete front end, complete brakes, full suspension. All 3 of these are best completed left side-right side as well.