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GQ1 is standard axle so its a peg legger.
What rearend do I have?
- Thread starter davbell22602
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GQ1 is standard axle so its a peg legger.
davbell22602
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If you are wanting to know for puposes of selling it, check your glove box for G80 RPO Code. Since those lists are in order, it should be right there just past the GU2 RPO code. If you got G80, advertise it as with G80 Locking Differential for $225 on CL and I bet it'll sell to the first person needing that rear end, and it might even sell to someone not needing a rear end and wanting ot upgrade to a locking diff. Just don't tell them that some dude on my truck forum, HotRodPC said they are junk and he'd rather have an open diff and add a Powertraxx Lock Right.
OK, It will be up for sale after the motor swap on my C2500. I'll probably advertise is for $400/BO. If someone offers me $300 I'll take it.
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For real? A GMC??? Usually all G codes have to do with the rear end. I'll have to look at an updated list to find what GMC could be, but being its standard axles and a wussy 2.73 ratio, I can't imagine it would be a heavy duty code. Maybe its a AntiLock Brake code or something of that nature, since most Rear wheel only ABS systems have the sensor in the differential instead of at the wheels themselves. I"ll look around for that one.
davbell22602
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Just my tidbit of info on setting prices Dave, you did good to find a way to compare what the salvage yards are getting. I usually try to search eBay and CL and see what things are listed for and how long they stay listed. If it staying listed to long, that probably means the price is to high. If an item is listed for $100 and gone in a day, then that means, I can probably go $150 and still get a sale within a couple days and the guy that has his same item listed for $225, well he must like it cuz it's gonna sit there for another 2 weeks. I also NEVER put OBO. That is just telling the buyer you will go down on the price. 90% of buyers are going to offer less anyway, so don't tell them OBO, cuz now when they were gonna offer $300 for a $400 item, they just make an offensive offer of $250. I never put OBO. If I have a little room to budge, I just won't put FIRM. If I am FIRM on a price, then I will put FIRM so they know up front don't even ask, cuz the answer is NO.
Also better to have a lower price. I always beleive 0% of $400 is $0. Meaning, and my own made up quote I use alot, "I'd rather have 20% of something, than 0% of nothing" I myself prefer quick sales, so I price things for quick sales. Turning over the money quicker, means more sales and higher volume. Selling more items making $100 profit, than no items making $200 profit will not turn the funds over so you can get that money to buy another junker and turn it over making money again. I ran an eBay business selling computer parts for 5 years before eBay got so saturated and cut throat, and high on fees. Selling computer parts no less, I ran a consistant GPM (Gross Profit Margin) of 40%. Mind you, we are talking online computer parts. That is huge profit margin for computer parts. Remeber we're talking profit margin, not profit percent. At 50% GPM you are doubling your money back. I was almost doubling my back. Reason being, my price point was lower than everyone else. How could I do that??? I bought my stuff right. I was an ass on the purchasing side of the things, and a ***** cat on the selling side of things. My suppliers didn't like to hear from me, cuz they knew I am buying right or not buying at all. But they also knew I was buying volume and getting their products into customers hands, so it paid off for them too. I do the same thing on my truck parts. I look for the super cheap deals, buy them cheap, sell the parts cheap, get my money back and buy another cheap deal to turn it over again. Typing in a little box and I bet this got long, so I'll quit with the advice, but give it a try and see how it works.
