What of brand of engine oil and oil filter do you use?

[fussfeld]

i will also use Mobil 1 filters if i can find them on sale at the parts store. Don't remember the pt#. Again, the price difference is not a major factor since we are not changing it that often.

Here is an interesting article regarding filters specifically for the SBC:

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html

 

[HotRodPC]

i will also use Mobil 1 filters if i can find them on sale at the parts store. Don't remember the pt#. Again, the price difference is not a major factor since we are not changing it that often.

Here is an interesting article regarding filters specifically for the SBC:

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html

Mobil 1 is what I use with my Synthetic Oil too. When I catch them on sale, I usually buy 3 or 4 at a time and keep them in stock.

 

[Beatdown Z]

I run Rotella in my cammed/turbo'd LSx motors. Brad Penn in my built SBC in my camaro and in my brother's cammed 454. I run Mobil 1 synthetic in all the daily drivers. My main oil filter brands are Wix and Purolator. I do run the Fram Racing filters on my SBC/BBC's.

 

[Jake292]

I use castrol and Fram(next time ill probably go with a wix filter)

 

[87sierra]

I use Valvoline max life and a fram filter

 

[smurph20]

I use valvoline max life an wix filters only

 

[DoubleDingo]

Rotella T6 5w40 and Subaru filters for the 2007 FXT. Castrol GTX Heavy Duty 10w40 for the 81 Chevy and Purolator Pure One Filters. Castrol GTX Heavy Duty 10x40 for the 91 Cherokee and Purolator Pure One Filters.

 

[89Suburban]

Just slapped a Wix and 15W40 in the Silvy.

 

[77 K20]

I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic. And if I had the extra $$ I'd buy the Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic. AC delco or WIX filters.

That being said ever since I bought the truck 6 years ago the engine would pop or miss fire at upper RPM. Just found out 3 of the lobes are ground down. The truck got a little worse every year. Having a friend put a new cam/lifters/timing set in it this weekend.

Bought some valvoline non-synthetic race oil (supposedly has less detergents in it- detergents can keep some of the zinc from sticking to the cam) and a bottle of Lucas break in oil (has the zinc/phospate stuff in it). Going to break it in with that oil for 20 minutes then change it. Have some non-synthetic Rotella to put in there with some zinc additive. Going to run that for 500 miles and change the oil again. Crane cams suggested getting 4000-5000 miles before going back to synthetic.

Once I go back to synthetic I'm not sure if I will go back to mobil 1 high mileage (has more zinc than the regular stuff) or run Rotella T6 synthetic.

Seem everyone has a lot of opinions on zinc additives, camshaft break in and how to run it after it is broken in. All I know is I don't want to have to replace another camshaft. Didn't have the money to do it right now as it is.

 

[HotRodPC]

I think I'd just leave the additive in and do the first oil change at 500 miles. And then I'd go the 3500-4000 miles on conventional with a good filter as Crane suggested. You're not going to get all that much break in metal off the cam and lifters, and if you are concerned about it, get a magnetic drain plug to trap all the fine metal particles. I suggest everyone do that anyway. It's a good tell tale sign everytime you change your oil of engine wear between changes by the metal on the tip the drain plug. JMO Though. If it makes you feel better to change it so soon, then so be it. I certainly won't hurt, I just think it's a waste.