What have you done to your square lately??

[SirRobyn0]

Go back to the previous weekend and one of my projects was to rehab the rear slider. It's an old aftermarket slider. One of the ones that has two panes of sliding glass in the center that are framed in aluminum. I really don't seem to have a picture of it from the inside but here is one from the outside to help you identify the type, though it looks like I was doing something with my tool box at the time.

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Any how it rattled pretty bad, was difficult to open and close. I found all the felt to still be in place, though very dirty as was the track. So I went to work with a can of WD-40 a tooth brush and some rags, until everything was nice and clean and the felt kind of sprang back to life. I wiped off the excess WD, and followed up with a little silicone spray to protect the felt and track. The latch is just a simple tang on one side and metal latch. Carefully bending the metal tang tightened it up. This last week has been rattle free driving and the slider works nice and smooth again.

 

[Ellie Niner]

Just because I am stubborn/stupid/insane I hooked the vacuum line to the EFE back up.

Curious- if anyone on the board still has a EFE and the thermal valve installed and functioning, can you tell me if when fully warmed up there is still slight vacuum on those 2 lines permitting slight functioning of those 2 items ?

Easy to check- and get to - just pull off the vacuum line and put your finger over it. If you feel suction, there is vacuum.

Maybe they aren't really efficient valves and never truly close off.

Yes, I still have the EFE connected and working on mine. I've tested the TVS with a vacuum gauge before, and its action was very positive, going from full manifold vacuum to the EFE vacuum motor on a cold start, then dropping to zero when the coolant reached the prescribed temperature... it's been a long time since I tested it, but I think the temperature setpoint was pretty low... like around 130 degrees. So the EFE valve will open in about a second once the TVS cuts the vacuum. -Just in this last year or so, I've noticed that my EFE valve is starting to open a bit early, and occasionally won't close on a cold start, so I'm probably going to need a new TVS here soon. Mine is a four port one that also changes the routing of manifold vacuum to the ESC distributor.

I also have a second four port TVS that controls EVAP canister, EGR, and enables a switch that allows TCC lockup in 2nd and 3rd gear... which sh¡t the bed quite awhile back. It looks like the part is discontinued, but you can still find them NOS from time to time. I haven't felt up to paying the asking price for one of these, but I'll get around to it someday... same deal with the THERMAC thermostat, though I think those are still readily available new.

 

[Goldie Driver]

Yes, I still have the EFE connected and working on mine. I've tested the TVS with a vacuum gauge before, and its action was very positive, going from full manifold vacuum to the EFE vacuum motor on a cold start, then dropping to zero when the coolant reached the prescribed temperature... it's been a long time since I tested it, but I think the temperature setpoint was pretty low... like around 130 degrees. So the EFE valve will open in about a second once the TVS cuts the vacuum. -Just in this last year or so, I've noticed that my EFE valve is starting to open a bit early, and occasionally won't close on a cold start, so I'm probably going to need a new TVS here soon. Mine is a four port one that also changes the routing of manifold vacuum to the ESC distributor.

I also have a second four port TVS that controls EVAP canister, EGR, and enables a switch that allows TCC lockup in 2nd and 3rd gear... which sh¡t the bed quite awhile back. It looks like the part is discontinued, but you can still find them NOS from time to time. I haven't felt up to paying the asking price for one of these, but I'll get around to it someday... same deal with the THERMAC thermostat, though I think those are still readily available new.

I have a TCC as well, which is controlled by the EGR TVS, I believe, but it works.

For my 80 , here is what I need to order from Fleabay :

PVS82 4 ported in a triangular style for EFE .

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PVS53 for the EGR - 4 ported, but rectangular.

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[Powerhouse Ranch]

Well my friends, the Jimmy floor is coming along. slowly but surely. with our schedules only lining up Saturday night early into Sunday, that's when the work gets done. and man it's ****-ton. my old man is a bit old fashioned, so naturally he plans on doing things near to factory. so hundreds of spot welds, not that there's anything wrong with that. it'll keep it solid and to those with the trained eye it'll be hard to tell it was even swapped. After completing the structure of the bed pan, we slid it in and ALL of the holes actually lined up. everything is looking pretty good and it is SO good to actually see a clean floor in the rig. It truly deserves it. Pulled it back out and laid some of my secret frame/undercarriage treatment primer on the under side, since i won't be taking the gas tank out again anytime soon. He's fighting the driver floor pan at this point. This morning i laid the black paint.

Now when it comes to replacement panels. I got the LMC floor pans and boy do they SUCK. Now it comes with the holes in the middle for i guess fold down seats for the middle row or something, idk someone said something like that. I'll have to patch them shut. There should be rises in the floor at certain areas where the frame bumps up. Nope, gonna have to make something work there too. The rear corners, against the bed rise were rotted. NOPE, new pans don't cover for that or account for any rises/curves. Starting to fashion the driver corner in. The little valley against the actual door is being a pain also.

I don't know if i didn't do enough research and find better pans or if this is just the universal and it all requires extra talent to make something work. So far i'm highly disappointed in these replacement pans. Not to mention they're like half the thickness of the orginal RUSTED floor. You live and you learn i guess.

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[Powerhouse Ranch]

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Quick action shot from some wood gathering this weekend with the '87

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[80BrownK10]

I am winning! The cab is finished, 4 coats of color gm8774 on top of bright white sealer, 3 coats of clear, last coat blocked out with 800 and final clear coat. Fenders and doors, same treatment ready for 800 blocking of clear then the final coat.
Eric
p.s. and the chopped studebaker coupe

Like VGG says, all that shine makes a guy nervous!!

 

[80BrownK10]

Ok I just went and looked at their website. Maybe you and @Grit dog can answer some questions for me. So back when I tried rain-x which honestly was probably in the mid-90s, the biggest thing that I did not like about it was at low speeds you'd need to use your wipers because there wasn't enough wind pressure to push the water off, but with the rain-x on it would make them streak. Also Rain-x wore off after a couple weeks, and unless I reapplied or stripped the glass the blades would streak or haze. I image some of that is mitigated by using the washer fluid. And keeping an aerosol can of the stuff in the truck for quick application. Back in the 90's they only had it in the squeeze bottle, where you applied it twice and doing that every other weekend was just not going to happen, sometimes just getting a dry windshield was hard enough. Can either or both of you (or anyone else that wants to) comment on that stuff please?

I know I'm probably late. I used the stuff in the squeeze bottle like you in the 90s. It worked and I didn't mind. Now I'm not sure if it's even cones like that anymore. But what I have now is in a spray bottle. You apply it just like Windex. It goes on easy and seems to stay for a long time. Like I haven't done it in a long time yet I still get a beading effect unless the dew times a year whatever that comes through the carwash makes the rain bead up.

 

[waterpirate]

Everything after market needs adjustment with a ford hammer. lol ! time you buy they are great, next time crap. This covid scare is not helping. If the panels got you close, be happy and patient and fab the rest to fit. It is all just part of it.
Eric

 

[80BrownK10]

@Goldie Driver a while back I picked up a prop valve tool it worked great to hold that valve in the center while bleeding. Hope it helps out. But you are absolutely correct, there is a bunch of junk parts. I snagged a new AcDelco MC on rockauto but haven't tried installing it yet. I'm really hoping it's better then the part store stuff.

Brake Proportioning Valve Bleeder Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DLJN5V5/

I think the one I put in a year or so ago was AC Delco. I had got it years earlier like 5 or more off RA. It seems to work fine.

 

[80BrownK10]

Finally about done rehabbing the wing windows.
They turned out pretty decent. I used the chassis paint with a couple coats of clear over it for UV protection.
Hopefully that will last a good long time.

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Those aren't scratches on the freshly painted window frame, must be reflections.
FWIW, I've read about how onerous it's supposed to be to get the new gaskets into the window channel.
It was super easy though. Used a little spray and wipe wax for lube and it clipped right in. I did push in one side first and then work the opposite side in with a putty knife.
Gasket install was literally a 5 minute deal and no sore thumbs!
Now if only I hadn't separated the 2 halves of the frame. That was 100% not necessary and I'd like to slap whatever Youtuber I watched before 10 rivets that I now need to re-attach. For anyone doing this, the only rivet that needs to come out is the pivot between the window and the bracket that attaches to the frame!

Mine took awhile and ended up with some small rip somewhere on it. I think it was near the pivot point. Was pretty tough to get it in place. You count yourself lucky I guess

 

[Grit dog]

Ok I just went and looked at their website. Maybe you and @Grit dog can answer some questions for me. So back when I tried rain-x which honestly was probably in the mid-90s, the biggest thing that I did not like about it was at low speeds you'd need to use your wipers because there wasn't enough wind pressure to push the water off, but with the rain-x on it would make them streak. Also Rain-x wore off after a couple weeks, and unless I reapplied or stripped the glass the blades would streak or haze. I image some of that is mitigated by using the washer fluid. And keeping an aerosol can of the stuff in the truck for quick application. Back in the 90's they only had it in the squeeze bottle, where you applied it twice and doing that every other weekend was just not going to happen, sometimes just getting a dry windshield was hard enough. Can either or both of you (or anyone else that wants to) comment on that stuff please?

It's the same stuff as it was back then. I first used it when I had an old square body Blazer back in the 90s that the wipers crapped out on (back then it wasn't known as a Square, but just a rusty piece of *****, lol)
IMO, the downsides pale compared to being able to drive pretty much anywhere at highway speeds all winter here without using the wipers much. Even at low speeds it beads enough that bumping the wipers once clears the windshield longer than without.
It's still the same recommended application process and that works the best, for no streaks. But I've found most wipers streak because they're dirty (if they're not just flat wore out dry rotted whatever).
If I'm washing the vehicles and it's not raining I'll do it the right way and it seems to last a couple weeks like you said. And I'll clean the wipers off. (Rain x and a rag) More often, I'll just turn the wipers on delay, even if it's misting out, and hit each side of the windshield with a couple squirts or sprays and let the wipers apply it. It streaks a little, but not for long and it works for a while. I have some in each of our winter rigs and a spray bottle easily lasts more than a year per vehicle (Oct-April here, basically)

 

[Grit dog]

Mine took awhile and ended up with some small rip somewhere on it. I think it was near the pivot point. Was pretty tough to get it in place. You count yourself lucky I guess

Ha, I shouldn't have bragged after doing just one! The second one fought me more and I still can't quite get the very top part to go 100%. I may need to get it all in front of the heater and soften/expand the rubber to get the very top to clip in above the channel.
Overall, it still wasn't bad, but I was regretting publicizing how easy I thought it was....
Little nervous, looks like if I have the window mocked up in there as in the right spot, there is a gap right at the upper hinge and the top portion above the hinge doesn't seem to have much "backing" from air getting through. Used Precision brand and they "fit" perfect other than that.

 

[80BrownK10]

Ha, I shouldn't have bragged after doing just one! The second one fought me more and I still can't quite get the very top part to go 100%. I may need to get it all in front of the heater and soften/expand the rubber to get the very top to clip in above the channel.
Overall, it still wasn't bad, but I was regretting publicizing how easy I thought it was....
Little nervous, looks like if I have the window mocked up in there as in the right spot, there is a gap right at the upper hinge and the top portion above the hinge doesn't seem to have much "backing" from air getting through. Used Precision brand and they "fit" perfect other than that.

I think mine were Precision as well. But honestly I don't remember.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I know I'm probably late. I used the stuff in the squeeze bottle like you in the 90s. It worked and I didn't mind. Now I'm not sure if it's even cones like that anymore. But what I have now is in a spray bottle. You apply it just like Windex. It goes on easy and seems to stay for a long time. Like I haven't done it in a long time yet I still get a beading effect unless the dew times a year whatever that comes through the carwash makes the rain bead up.

Never to late, seems like I'm always hanging around. Well I rehabed the wiper linkage and that alone has made such a big difference not hearing the constant squeaking. And the wipers work well otherwise I've got a good motor and great blades. It's unlikely that I'll get on the Rain-x train anytime soon, but I am curious do you run the rain-x washer fluid as well? I have to admit I'm pretty hung up on 20/10 washer fluid, but I can see how the Rain-x products might work best if used together.

 

[SirRobyn0]

It's the same stuff as it was back then. I first used it when I had an old square body Blazer back in the 90s that the wipers crapped out on (back then it wasn't known as a Square, but just a rusty piece of *****, lol)
IMO, the downsides pale compared to being able to drive pretty much anywhere at highway speeds all winter here without using the wipers much. Even at low speeds it beads enough that bumping the wipers once clears the windshield longer than without.
It's still the same recommended application process and that works the best, for no streaks. But I've found most wipers streak because they're dirty (if they're not just flat wore out dry rotted whatever).
If I'm washing the vehicles and it's not raining I'll do it the right way and it seems to last a couple weeks like you said. And I'll clean the wipers off. (Rain x and a rag) More often, I'll just turn the wipers on delay, even if it's misting out, and hit each side of the windshield with a couple squirts or sprays and let the wipers apply it. It streaks a little, but not for long and it works for a while. I have some in each of our winter rigs and a spray bottle easily lasts more than a year per vehicle (Oct-April here, basically)

Thanks for the info like I said to Nate it's unlikely that I'll be getting on the rain-x plan anytime soon, but I'm always interested. Are you running the rain-x washer fluid as well. Thanks for the chuckle on the "rusty pile" comment... IDK when people started calling them squares I feel as I woke up one day and I was the only guy that didn't know, but that's typical I've never been one for keeping up on what people call different things.