What have you done to your square lately??

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Camar068

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David
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10 yrs Air Force
I would for sure make sure under the area you mount the sensor is a plastic barrier so an air damn or seal or something that would just block radiating heat from below. A smaall thing preventing radiator too unless you have a condenser.

No direct light on the sensor or touching anything with the probe esp metal. I suspect under the cab may even catch a lot of rays
Thanks, may add something to the sensor....maybe a small piece of pvc
 

CoggedBelt75

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383
For a while the old girl has been a pretty ruff ride. Moreso with a passenger. a minor ripple or bump in the road would cause the right front tire to make contact with the top of the wheel well. Thought it must be either the shocks or weakened springs from the extra weight of the blower. Ruled the shocks out as I recently changed them hoping to fix the quality of the ride.
I should’ve caught the problem when I repacked the front bearings. The lower A-arm bump stop was almost gone, I’m guessing, from age. Would not pull out of the slot so took a hack saw to it. Harder trying to get the new one back in. I greased it, oiled it & cussed it.
Finally figured the only way was to press it in. I used a rawhide mallet that fit just right between the upper arm & the greased up stop resting on the slot. Put the floor jack under the lower on the outside edge & jacked it till it popped into place.
Made a world of different. No more rubbing or scraping & rough surfaces are hardly felt. Glad it was something as simple as a $9 hunk of hard rubber instead of shocks or springs.
Shoulda took a pic of the chewed up one, but didn’t. Here’s the new one with 1/2” cut off the top.
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What got the job done
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Tank6x2

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Process of doing a dash swap/ windshield sill repair
 

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Goldie Driver

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Tightened the tower clamp on the upper radiator hose- been losing antifreeze slowly and now I see why.

Got 2 of those OE style clamps I need to replace as on both the adjustment screw is bent.

Disappointing that a mere 41 year old clamp would go bad ...

:bleh:

Checked the thermostat housing bolts 1st - plenty snug. So, at some point, the cheap and easy fix will get done.
 

Ellie Niner

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Tory
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LE9 305
Tightened the tower clamp on the upper radiator hose- been losing antifreeze slowly and now I see why.

Got 2 of those OE style clamps I need to replace as on both the adjustment screw is bent.

Disappointing that a mere 41 year old clamp would go bad ...

:bleh:

Checked the thermostat housing bolts 1st - plenty snug. So, at some point, the cheap and easy fix will get done.
I was wondering how long GM used those tower clamps... and I see that they made at least 1980. My 1986 has the usual gear clamps, and I think? that might be what it came with?
 

59840Surfer

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K5
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350 Stroker to 383 with a 400 crank, Crane Cam, Q-Jet, single 3.5" exhaust..
I've just completed a window rubber/wiper/guide replacement on both the front doors and the tailgate.

Now my window motors are mad at me and the tailgate motor is slightly more angry at me for the same reason.

I replaced the driver's door lock solenoid and it didn't work (my bad for not testing if there was electricity to it or not) .. so I had to snake the old broken - and very stiff - wires out of the loom and pull the new wires in behind them.

That didn't work - so I had to remove the rubber bellows where the wires ran and that required drilling a 2 inch hole with a hole saw through the left kick panel.

I used a die grinder to remove the rivet heads off the two spots where they hold the bellows to the door - not the inner A Pillar support.

THAT hole saw grabbed the door light switch wires and wound them up into a neat series of spirals... ugh! I completely forgot about them!

It's 5PM - already dark - slightly raining and it's cold. My fingers are numb and the light has gone away and now I use a headband LED setup. Ugh!

Well - I got it done and it works and that's the good part.

It's nice not having the wind coming in through the gaps around the glass and doors and messing up my hair.

The quiet is scary! I can actually hear my radio and I no longer have a fear of carbon monoxide-ing myself to death.

Now if only I can open and close my windows!

Anyone got any ideas on how to limber up the windows so I don't have to have the engine running and someone to "help" the glass go up-n-down while i press buttons?

I'm not usually easily embarrassed - but I kinda feel silly asking strangers to help.








.
 

mikeoverland

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250/I6
I got the fuel from a gas tank that was *supposed* to be plugged up, to the carburator. Now to replace the rusted in, nasy and throughly clogged fuel filter........ I did bench test the radio and i get to put that back in next....
 

OldBlueDually

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I took my first shot at making an exhaust system this weekend. Got some of it done up the exhaust cutouts!

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Goldie Driver

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Britt
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1980
Truck Model
GMC K1500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
I've just completed a window rubber/wiper/guide replacement on both the front doors and the tailgate.

Now my window motors are mad at me and the tailgate motor is slightly more angry at me for the same reason.

I replaced the driver's door lock solenoid and it didn't work (my bad for not testing if there was electricity to it or not) .. so I had to snake the old broken - and very stiff - wires out of the loom and pull the new wires in behind them.

That didn't work - so I had to remove the rubber bellows where the wires ran and that required drilling a 2 inch hole with a hole saw through the left kick panel.

I used a die grinder to remove the rivet heads off the two spots where they hold the bellows to the door - not the inner A Pillar support.

THAT hole saw grabbed the door light switch wires and wound them up into a neat series of spirals... ugh! I completely forgot about them!

It's 5PM - already dark - slightly raining and it's cold. My fingers are numb and the light has gone away and now I use a headband LED setup. Ugh!

Well - I got it done and it works and that's the good part.

It's nice not having the wind coming in through the gaps around the glass and doors and messing up my hair.

The quiet is scary! I can actually hear my radio and I no longer have a fear of carbon monoxide-ing myself to death.

Now if only I can open and close my windows!

Anyone got any ideas on how to limber up the windows so I don't have to have the engine running and someone to "help" the glass go up-n-down while i press buttons?

I'm not usually easily embarrassed - but I kinda feel silly asking strangers to help.








.

My only thought is silicone spray on the new rubber. Hopefully that helps, and someone with more knowledge chimes in.
 

Goldie Driver

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1980
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GMC K1500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
I was wondering how long GM used those tower clamps... and I see that they made at least 1980. My 1986 has the usual gear clamps, and I think? that might be what it came with?

I think they are fine, usually, but this bent stem stuff is weird.

Constant tension gear clamps are the way to go.
 

Goldie Driver

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GMC K1500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
Also engine cleaned the front axle, crossmember, and oil and tranny pan.

With the spray can stuff.

Hoping beyond hope that the new vaccuum hose for the charcoal canister will help some of the oil leaks by reducing internal engine pressure.

Probably not, but I can hope.

:boti:

Trying to stave off engine replacement as long as possible as I have been "cheating" on Goldie by dropping coin on the Camaro SS and the 4RUNNER.

In case I carry through with my Adios,MFers threat at work I want as much money spent and repairs done prior to that ...
 

Bruce Wingate

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1984
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K10
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350
I spent this weekend taking one step forward and two steps back

Diamondback cover was the wrong size so I have to get that replaced. Their mistake, not mine. I thought I was getting a great deal on a scratch and dent sale with no real damage but it was for an 8 foot bed, not 6.5

New dash pad didn't fit right and would need new holes drilled to fit the aluminum strip which was drilled wrong for the Silverado badge. More returns and replacements

But, I did finish the Vintage Air install, got the ashtray and glove box in with the old dash pad. Now just to get the system charged.

Also tightened up the steering gear box. Steering is still wonky. I definitely need an alignment
 

SaltMarsh

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White Mountains, NH
First Name
Nate
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
k10 Silverado
Engine Size
LS 5.3
i bought some internet $30 a piece 4” tips for my bare exhaust tips. Looks like the raptor ones a little. Not bad for a cheap buy. New member here, been reading for years and just signed up for real.
 

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