What have you done to your square lately??

[HotRodPC]

Was gonna swap the torque converters, hit a small bump though, guess it calls for a nylock nut and thread lock to prevent coming loose since it'll be bolted together instead of threaded into the tc?

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That's not true about the nut Dawg. BTW, that is the GOOD Th350 Converter. The ones with the flat pads that bolt to the flexplate. Not the ones with the bolt lugs. Those are getting rare and harder to find. I've got about 7 of them and sitting on them bitches. Transtar in OKC knows I have them too, every time I call my parts guys he asks if I still have them and offers to buy them. When they offer over $25 each, I'll let 5 of the 7 go.

So here's what you do need. Grade 5 of Grade 8 hardened bolts. Just regular nuts, they don't have to be hardened, and good lock washers, I usually used the split type and NEVER had one come loose. Not even at 7500 rpm on a 12.60 quarter mile heavy truck or 11.90's El Camino with 3000-3500 stall converters.

 

[HotRodPC]

Jacked up the front and started it to see if the wheels turned trying to diagnose the pull to the right.

They did not, so I swapped the front tires around .

Therapy after a frustrating day at work.

As a bonus, I know know what the pull is.

Downside is tire shopping I will now go ...

$'s

OK, so obviously after the tire swap you lost the pull to the right. So is going straight now or is it pulling to the left? If the tire a good one? Meaning it's not 7 or 8 year old tire and has good tread? If it's a good tire and your really don't need tires, then just drive it. It is possible you have a bad radial pull from a twisted belt. If it was pulling to the right, and it either quit pulling or is pulling the left now, then just drive it and you might must just get the belt to twist and loose the radial pull then it can eventually be rotated back to the right side again if needed. Or, just put it on the back and leave it there until it wears out the tread and needs replaced.

Of course if during the rotate you found a big bubble or tire separation in the tire, yep, gotta replace that.

 

[HotRodPC]

Bleach works too. Lol I got a Vanagon to burn rubber with bleach on the tires once. Lol

Ohhh yeah, bleach is the **** for burnouts. It also puts an ear piercing crackling like lightening strikes and squeal. At least with enough rpm and powa it does. We used to use bleach to heat our tires for ashpault when racing. It'll melt rubber and make them bitches sticky like syrup.

 

[silverscottsk10]

That's not true about the nut Dawg. BTW, that is the GOOD Th350 Converter. The ones with the flat pads that bolt to the flexplate. Not the ones with the bolt lugs. Those are getting rare and harder to find. I've got about 7 of them and sitting on them bitches. Transtar in OKC knows I have them too, every time I call my parts guys he asks if I still have them and offers to buy them. When they offer over $25 each, I'll let 5 of the 7 go.

So here's what you do need. Grade 5 of Grade 8 hardened bolts. Just regular nuts, they don't have to be hardened, and good lock washers, I usually used the split type and NEVER had one come loose. Not even at 7500 rpm on a 12.60 quarter mile heavy truck or 11.90's El Camino with 3000-3500 stall converters.

The Tc in the truck is a 3200 stall, the one I have should be a stock stall, I got fine thread grade 8 with nylock nuts and regular nuts too see which will work if I got enough threads

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[HotRodPC]

That should work fine. You went overkill and won't hurt a thing to do so. You've got a 3200 stall in your 85 K10? Must be alot of motor and have some good gear.

 

[silverscottsk10]

That should work fine. You went overkill and won't hurt a thing to do so. You've got a 3200 stall in your 85 K10? Must be alot of motor and have some good gear.

Negative, stall came with the 80 already in, the th350 came from a 500hp drag car, it revs to around 3200 before it moved in 2hi in 4 low it revs to 2500 Before moving, it's got a 355 in it with an RV cam but not much else done, it has a subtle lope at idle

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[idahovette]

Ohhh yeah, bleach is the **** for burnouts. It also puts an ear piercing crackling like lightening strikes and squeal. At least with enough rpm and powa it does. We used to use bleach to heat our tires for ashpault when racing. It'll melt rubber and make them bitches sticky like syrup.

Back in the day didn't have money for snow tires(lotta snow) carried a gallon of Clorox around and poured it on and around the rear tires when we got stuck. Got us out but sure made the tires soft

 

[silverscottsk10]

Tc is in, need to finish by tightening everything and then hooking everything back up, the harbor freight scissor jack is a champ, held the th350 and np205 both full of fluids, even left the driveshaft in, hopefully this solves my moving issue

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[HotRodPC]

Back in the day didn't have money for snow tires(lotta snow) carried a gallon of Clorox around and poured it on and around the rear tires when we got stuck. Got us out but sure made the tires soft

Yes, it'll eat the rubber and make syrup or nasty looking tar out of them.

 

[Goldie Driver]

OK, so obviously after the tire swap you lost the pull to the right. So is going straight now or is it pulling to the left? If the tire a good one? Meaning it's not 7 or 8 year old tire and has good tread? If it's a good tire and your really don't need tires, then just drive it. It is possible you have a bad radial pull from a twisted belt. If it was pulling to the right, and it either quit pulling or is pulling the left now, then just drive it and you might must just get the belt to twist and loose the radial pull then it can eventually be rotated back to the right side again if needed. Or, just put it on the back and leave it there until it wears out the tread and needs replaced.

Of course if during the rotate you found a big bubble or tire separation in the tire, yep, gotta replace that.

Pulls to the left now.
Tires are Dean radial mud terrains 33 by 9.5 by 15 and are what were on her when I bought it.

No idea the age - cannot find them on the web.
Dean got bought out by Cooper in the 90s from what I saw and that tire seemed to have been dropped.

It looked like there was a bulge in the tread - not huge, but not my imagination either so new tires are ordered.

https://www.discounttire.com/fitmentresult/tires/size/33-12.5-15?q=:relevance&sort=relevance&page=1

Kumho Road Ventures MT on top of page 2.

Would have gone 10.5 width but less selection.

OE ralleys are 8 inches wide so these will fit despite what Discount Tires computer thinks.

 

[silverscottsk10]

Got everything in and tightened, a world of difference that made, can definitely feel when it goes into gear now, I have alot more brake pedal now as well, but as i was playing with the response the truck was trying to fuel too much and fall on its face, guess that will be the next obstacle to tackle

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[HotRodPC]

The only 33 inch I know that can be gotten in a 10.50 width is the BF Goodrich AT's.

Yep, if the tire isn't bubbled, it sounds as if it has a badly rolled belt in it. I'd just rotate that one to the rear and run it til you're ready to replace the tires.

There should be a DOT serial # stamped on the tire. Usually the backside, so if it's a raised white leter tire, you know which is the back side. There is also a date code. The week # of the year made, and the year made.

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[smoothandlow84]

Okay....so not my squarebody...but my new 22" GM transport wheels are on their way from Canada...eh. Can't wait to get them mounted and ditch the 15" chrome American Racing spokes. Now all I have to do is source some gm hubcaps (dogdish). Slow progress, but with the summer heat, slow progress is well...still progress. The next hurdle is a front disc conversion since the wheel centers wont fit with the front drums. I decided to keep the original 6 lug rather than convert to 5 lug.


If anyone is interested, I will post up pics.

 

[smoothandlow84]

The only 33 inch I know that can be gotten in a 10.50 width is the BF Goodrich AT's.

Yep, if the tire isn't bubbled, it sounds as if it has a badly rolled belt in it. I'd just rotate that one to the rear and run it til you're ready to replace the tires.

There should be a DOT serial # stamped on the tire. Usually the backside, so if it's a raised white leter tire, you know which is the back side. There is also a date code. The week # of the year made, and the year made.

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And only keep any tire 5 years MAX.

 

[smoothandlow84]

And only keep any tire 5 years MAX.

....I was able to find a 33x9.50x15 bfg a/t. It was special order and I needed it as a spare on my Toyota 4x4 rig. About the only people using a 33x9.50 are offroad racers. They are commonly used on class 2 buggies.