What Are These?

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Burban

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What are these weird pipes for in my carbureted engine?

There's one per cylinder, not exactly in line with the plugs, and they go to a log, that then dissappears into the vacuum rats nest.

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1987 GMC Jimmy

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Those are the lines for the air injection reaction (AIR) system. Basically, it injects fresh air into the exhaust to help dilute and/or combust hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide in the exhaust. I don't know what the current applicable emissions standards are on Uranus, but if you were to live in a state without an emissions inspection, you're okay to get rid of it. If you have all the stuff, it works, and you want to keep it, it won't hurt anything to just leave it alone.
 

Burban

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If I were to remove it, wouldn't I need to bung the holes in the manifold, or put bolts in it?
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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Oh, yeah. That or doubly increase your economy and performance by deleting the AIR and installing a set of headers.
 

Burban

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When I had the exhaust patched ten or so years ago, the guy said the front pipe / cat was on it's way out and he'd just straight pipe it for me when it went.

There's another part I can't figure out, probably more of this emissions control. As I'm changing out the carburetor, and putting just a plain chrome dish on it, I'd like to try and simplify it under the hood a bit.

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This part has just been dangling since I got the vehicle.
 
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1987 GMC Jimmy

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I'm not too certain, but I think that's an HVAC actuator. Do you have AC settings that don't work?
 

Burban

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Bugger, I do. Or at least the whole thing doesn't work.

I was going softly around the A/C stuff in the hope I could convert it. Any idea where it should go?
 
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1987 GMC Jimmy

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Okay, okay. I screwed up. That looks like the early fuel evaporator (EFE). That guy hooks into the thermal vacuum switch (TVS) on top of the engine, which hooks into the AIR Valve. At least it does on the 305 in my Caprice. It's supposed to warm your fuel up a little to help with cold engine operation. However, it's a catalyst component, and it was unplugged for months on mine until I put it under the scrutiny to find every little vacuum leak. It ties into the AIR system, and you can delete it along with the other so you were right from the get go. Here's a picture of mine on the car. It's the little can under my freshly rat-eaten, brand new Delco spark plug wire.
 

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1987 GMC Jimmy

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I had it confused with this HVAC actuator. Now that's a whole different can of worms. Does your blower work? Do you lack certain fan speeds? Do you lack certain climate control modes? Does it blow weak? Or does it just blow hot?
 

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This thing. Whoops.
 

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Burban

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So how much of my vacuum system do I actually need?

The new carburetor has mechanical secondaries, but is the HEI distributor vacuum advance?

I never understood all this, I've got tubes with bolts plugging them, bits lying about, and this was back when the truck ran, and passed emissions! Since then, the only thing I messed with was to add a manual choke kit, as the electric choke was on the fritz and would stick in high idle.

Now that the original carburetor is toast, along with the air cleaner, I just want to simplify it all. Manual choke, dish carburetor filter, as few fuel and vacuum lines as I can get away with.

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The heater works, no A/C, all the fanspeeds are there, I just guessed the system need recharged, and would need converted to a new refrigerant first.
 
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1987 GMC Jimmy

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Yeah, that's c.1980's GM emissions ******** for you. Your distributor is electronically advanced by the Electronic Spark Control (ESC) system. If you wanted, you could just get a vacuum advanced distributor and hook it up to manifold vacuum. That part's easy to get around on the trucks. The vacuum stuff is trickier in my opinion than just ripping it out because some of it has a purpose. Firstly, you can round file the entire AIR system. That's the control valve, the EFE, the TVS, and all complementary vacuum lines. Since you don't have an ECM, you can probably just block of the EGR port and delete the EGR valve, EGR solenoid, and complementary vacuum lines. The vapor canister serves a good purpose. It latches onto gas vapors instead of releasing them so your engine can have them instead. However, if you want, you can delete the canister, canister control valve, check valve, etc. Be warned that you need a small air filter for that vapor line that goes into the tank if you remove that canister. You also need to place it in a dry place that's not rubbing on or near wires. This is to prevent the tank from taking in filth or water and to prevent you or truck from turning into a roasted skeleton. You'd delete the positive crankcase ventilation and vacuum hose by simply installing a crankcase filter in its place. The PCV does help with sludge buildup and engine blow by. You won't be keeping thermostatic air cleaner so there's one more vacuum line gone. There are various check valves and purge valves that are peppered throughout the system, and they can all go once those changes are made. That should get you down to a bare basic SBC setup. You need to refer to yours or a similar emissions catalyst sticker so you can know about all the trinkets I referred to because there are a ton of them.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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Verify the refrigerant type by looking at the fittings unless you're already for sure it still has R12 freon. You may be able to just get a can of freon from Walmart and take care of it yourself if someone already converted it.
 

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Burban

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Here's a picture of mine on the car. It's the little can under my freshly rat-eaten, brand new Delco spark plug wire.

Glad I'm not the only one with wildlife problems on his vehicle.

Is it true headers make the plugs easier to get at?
 

Derick C.

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Is it true headers make the plugs easier to get at?

I have never seen a set of headers that make changing plugs easy.
 

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