vintage air system

[msjulian]

I am at the same crossroads. Just picked up an '87 with factory air but the pancake compressor is shot. I think I have opted for the vintage air route. The old compressors are power hogs and the system was not engineered to run 134a. I could run r12 but the cost is nuts. On top of that the pancake compressor that's stock in my application has a horrible reputation for being inefficient and short life span.

Just my two cents... In the end it's your truck to do with what you feel is best.

 

[robert8096]

I am at the same crossroads. Just picked up an '87 with factory air but the pancake compressor is shot. I think I have opted for the vintage air route. The old compressors are power hogs and the system was not engineered to run 134a. I could run r12 but the cost is nuts. On top of that the pancake compressor that's stock in my application has a horrible reputation for being inefficient and short life span.

Just my two cents... In the end it's your truck to do with what you feel is best.

I with you on this one. I priced replacing all the components needed to refurbish the stock AC and make it 134 compatible and it was only a few bucks less than the Vintage Air system. There are people out there that say you can convert the stock R12 system to 134 with minimum parts but if you drill down into it the conversion you need to change some major components to get it to work efficiently. I have done the conversion and had it professionally done on other cars I have owned with lackluster results. Two more advantages of the Vintage Air system is you loose that giant box from the firewall and all the vacuum crap associated with the stock system.

One thing to note in my other post is I said the VA system lines were crimped on both ends. I am at the point of installing them and noticed that THEY ARE NOT CRIMPED ON ONE END. I apologize for this oversight.

Here are some pics of the evaporator and compressor installed. Hopefully I will get the condenser and related parts installed this weekend. Compressor will come back off and I will powder coat the brackets.

 

[BigPoser]

I have done this conversion (install factory air) a few times now - it is really not that tough. The biggest time saver you can do is to remove the RH wheel housing (AKA inner fender). It takes a couple of extra hours at the start, but the time you save (and the quality of the end result) is really worth it. Most recently it was on a 1 ton lumber yard truck I am restoring/upgrading:

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If you decide to go for it - bump this. I have developed a couple of tricks that help ease the pain of modifying the firewall. A couple of days work - with the inner out of the way - and you should look something like this:

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Can I ask you where you get your directions for removal and installations? I really like them. Thank you.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Worth the money?

Let's see; the two options seem to be:

1. Spend over 1200 dollars on an aftermarket add-on kit
2. Spend basically no money on a factory system

Figure the same number of hours labor to install whichever one you go with.
And, when finished, assume equal cooling capacity from either system...

If it were me, I'd have to say no - it is not worth the money to buy a vintage air system.

I was talking to some guys at a shop here that do a lot of custom ground-ups for people, and he said to use the factory components if I have them. I have them. He said it is a much cleaner install having the factory components and it saves a boat load of money.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Two more advantages of the Vintage Air system is you loose that giant box from the firewall and all the vacuum crap associated with the stock system.

One thing to note in my other post is I said the VA system lines were crimped on both ends. I am at the point of installing them and noticed that THEY ARE NOT CRIMPED ON ONE END. I apologize for this oversight.

Here are some pics of the evaporator and compressor installed. Hopefully I will get the condenser and related parts installed this weekend. Compressor will come back off and I will powder coat the brackets.

I would rather have the glove box instead of an AC unit in the same space. Factory components keeps the glove box. The guys I spoke to said the conversion to 134 is much easier now because they (the powers that be that make the parts and pieces for the new system) have come a long way in making it easier to convert it over. You do lose the cooling capapcity but with the cab being so small, it should still work well enough. There are places that still use r12 so why convert over if you don't have to?

 

[BigPoser]

I would rather have the glove box instead of an AC unit in the same space. Factory components keeps the glove box. The guys I spoke to said the conversion to 134 is much easier now because they (the powers that be that make the parts and pieces for the new system) have come a long way in making it easier to convert it over. You do lose the cooling capapcity but with the cab being so small, it should still work well enough. There are places that still use r12 so why convert over if you don't have to?

Does using the VA system completely eliminate the glove box? Since I know so little about AC systems, if mine doesn't work, I'm considering going with VA since it comes with everything that I would need.

Since you're also in Bako, is there a place in town that you would recommend to do an eval on my system?

 

[DoubleDingo]

If you look at the photos posted above, the unit is sitting where the glove box would be. The truck I saw at that shop I mentioned, it was the same thing. If I remember correctly that truck was a 49 Ford, but there was no glove box area left. I checked out the Vintage Air website and they sent me the installation instructions, and one of the first steps is to remove the glove box.

That shop directed me to Kool Auto Air & Repair on 1215 30th Street. Phone # 325-5559.(Mods, if I'm not supposed to add the phone number, please delete it...thanks) I called to ask them how much it would cost to vacuum out my truck's system and he quoted me $40. I need to remove my AC from my 65, and change o-rings and get a new compressor for my 81, so I need the freon from each truck to be vacuumed out. It would be nice to get the AC working in the 81, it can be a hot ****** in the summer. But opening the vent windows and the back slider helps keep things tolerable.

 

[Tackelbarry]

I just finished a complete Vintage Air AC install on my 1979 K 2500 that was a non-ac truck. I have a total of about 32-33 man hours on the install and it works great. In 90 degree + temps. it takes about 2 minutes to cool off the cab and anything over about 25-30% on the blower, after that, will make it too cold to be comfortable.
The glove box modification takes away about 50% of the depth, but I am still able to keep the essentials handy. Hope this helped.

 

[mrnapolean1]

I with you on this one. I priced replacing all the components needed to refurbish the stock AC and make it 134 compatible and it was only a few bucks less than the Vintage Air system. There are people out there that say you can convert the stock R12 system to 134 with minimum parts but if you drill down into it the conversion you need to change some major components to get it to work efficiently. I have done the conversion and had it professionally done on other cars I have owned with lackluster results. Two more advantages of the Vintage Air system is you loose that giant box from the firewall and all the vacuum crap associated with the stock system.

One thing to note in my other post is I said the VA system lines were crimped on both ends. I am at the point of installing them and noticed that THEY ARE NOT CRIMPED ON ONE END. I apologize for this oversight.

Here are some pics of the evaporator and compressor installed. Hopefully I will get the condenser and related parts installed this weekend. Compressor will come back off and I will powder coat the brackets.

Excellent Info. A couple of things I must ask you.

1. How are/did you do your routing for the hoses to and from the compressor and condenser?
2. Will a GM AC belt work on this or do I have to special order a belt?
3. How much Factory stuff did you have to find? Like the vents and ducting?
Are you able to use your entire Glovebox?
4. How about did you go on ordering your system?

 

[robert8096]

Excellent Info. A couple of things I must ask you.

1. How are/did you do your routing for the hoses to and from the compressor and condenser?
2. Will a GM AC belt work on this or do I have to special order a belt?
3. How much Factory stuff did you have to find? Like the vents and ducting?
Are you able to use your entire Glovebox?
4. How about did you go on ordering your system?

They route about the same as factory. I have them routed and can post a pic if needed.

Yes I just went to the parts store with measurements and got the belt. I have the part number at home.

The VA kit replaces all of the factory components. It comes with everything needed and NO factory AC parts or control is used. There is two kits, one comes with all the vents needed for a non-ac truck other kit comes with out the vents. Both kits come with the duct work material. Mine was factory air and the only stock piece needed was the plastic piece of duct work that goes to the lower driver side vent across under the steering column. Not sure if that is needed for the non ac truck. The part is available from LMC.

No, like the above post you do loose some of the glove box.

I just searched around until I found the best price and ordered from them.

 

[Ghetto]

I've done a VA kit on my 1938 Ford streetrod in 1996. Super easy to install. Still blows 37 degree air to this day on the original charge.

 

[74propu]

I have a add on air system in my 74 and it will keep the cab at around 60 when it is over 100 here in Florida in the summer and this place has a unit for a square body I put mine in in about 4 hours check them out .just my 2 cents
http://nostalgicac.com/