upgrading your square with a hydraulic clutch

[HotRodPC]

In the middle of my swap now and trying to nail down how to hook my master to the mechanical pedals. I came across this picture of a master mounted up with nothing in the way. I thought I would be helpful to give an uncluttered look at the location.

I didn't think it was possible to connect Z bar linkage pedals to the Hydro Clutch Master.

I still need Hydro Clutch Pedals for my K10/20. I passed on some Z bar recently that were very very cheap.

 

[bluex]

I didn't think it was possible to connect Z bar linkage pedals to the Hydro Clutch Master.

I still need Hydro Clutch Pedals for my K10/20. I passed on some Z bar recently that were very very cheap.

Anything is possible, and using that picture above and adding the plate to the pedal will probably work for the stock master and maybe for me I'm not sure yet. I will more than likely just drill a hole in my pedal though.

My issue now is I'm using a Wilwood master that doesn't mount on an angle like the stock one. I cant mount it in the stock location because it will be to low on the pedal and I cant run it with that much angle on the pushrod. If you look at those pictures the stock master has the angle built into it and the push rod runs on that same angle. Maybe I should have went that route but I have the master now so I will figure something out I hope. I think there is room to mount it higher on the firewall between the booster and wiper motor. I'm basically going to need it at almost the same level as the brakes I think.

 

[bucket]

What bellhousing are you using? Are you adapting a mechanical bell too?

 

[bluex]

What bellhousing are you using? Are you adapting a mechanical bell too?

96+ NV3500 with hydraulic throwout bearing

 

[bluex]

For better or worse here's where it wound up. Haven't hooked it to the pedal yet but it's lower than I wanted it to be. Can't go any higher though because of the cowl area inside the cab. Hopefully it works ok. I plan to do a write up on it when I'm done if it works lol.

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[bluex]

Hooked to the pedal now.

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[Driver4r]

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Forgot all about this thread. good thing I found it again, I need this diagram for my truck.

 

[Old77]

Wonder where @GreaseDog has been :/

 

[GreaseDog]

I'm around, playing with GMT400s more recently though.

 

[GreaseDog]

Miss me?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[HotRodPC]

I don't miss you at all.

 

[HotRodPC]

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Forgot all about this thread. good thing I found it again, I need this diagram for my truck.

Great Info to have here. Thanks Dvr4

 

[HotRodPC]

After 2 years, I see @GreaseDog lurking around !!! WTH you been??? Find a Square? You coming back???

 

[Overland Suburban]

i've had several guys ask me about swapping a hydro clutch into an automatic truck, or a truck with a factory mechanical clutch. so i thought that this post could be useful in the future.

for starters, you need the proper 85-87 hydraulic belhousing. the hydraulic belhousing from an IFS truck may work, but the slave cylinder is on the wrong side. you'll also need the specific hydraulic clutch pedal assembly, and the support rods that go between the pedal pivot and the firewall. everything else is available, as they're wear parts. some parts may be tougher to find, but they are available. i've heard of guys having problems finding a hydraulic line to go between the master and the slave. IIRC they are available from Napa.

the studs on the end of the supports are used to mount the master cylinder. proper positioning of these support rods, and the master cylinder are critical to proper geometry and operation of the clutch. fortunately the wiper motors are positioned the same on all trucks in the same position away from the brake pedal, so you can use the bolts for the wiper motor as a refrence point to accurately drill the proper holes.

here are the measurements to locate the master cylinder and the support rods.

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on trucks 84 and newer, you will often find dimples in the firewall where the center of these holes will be, if you find them, you can just use them and drill the holes to the proper size and be done with it.

the measurements are courtesy of TJ (aka big83chevy4x4)

See Post #22 for further template info: http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showpost.php?p=230533&postcount=22

GreaseDog,

I'm new to the forum just trying to figure where to post....lol I'm new to square bodies and am getting ready to do a 3/4 ton power train transplant swap from a 73 3/4 ton into a 1/2 ton 89 suburban. Just wondering which part of the forum is recommended to start a thread on that subject

I do have one relevant question for this thread. My suburban is automatic and in the swap I'm considering going to older 350 2 piece rear seal engine SM465 NP205 10 spline. If I do this would the Novak hydraulic clutch system that is designed for the older chevy bellhousing be a viable option or would I be better off buying a 85-87 bellhousing. The current 350 tbi engine is toast thus the reason for considering the older4 barrel 350 that I already have though I am also considering a few 350 tbi engines I've been looking at on craigslist in view of just sticking with tbi

Thanks

Edited to add I posted a thread under Tech Discussion

 

[WarlVlachine]

I'm at this point in my conversion too. I have the Willwood kit and am looking at using the remote res to let me get the master into a better position. Looks like it can go vertical, I'm working with a buddy to figure it out.