Transmission Vendor Recommendations

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peats

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whatever you do make sure that the tv cable gets adjusted properly or you're pissing in the wind
 

mtnmankev

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There are some transmission shops around the tri-city area near me (Prescott, Prescott Valley, Chino Valley) and all of them are WAY overpriced for the questionable quality of work one will receive on their transmission.
I sold a truck cheap a couple years ago because I had no help to do the transmission, and I wasn't about to pay a lot of money I don't have for substandard work from a shop I can't trust.
 

SirRobyn0

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There are some transmission shops around the tri-city area near me (Prescott, Prescott Valley, Chino Valley) and all of them are WAY overpriced for the questionable quality of work one will receive on their transmission.
I sold a truck cheap a couple years ago because I had no help to do the transmission, and I wasn't about to pay a lot of money I don't have for substandard work from a shop I can't trust.
I echo these thoughts in Western Wa. It's sad but true, what happened to reliable work from folks you could trust that would stand behind their work if something did go wrong.
 

mtnmankev

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I echo these thoughts in Western Wa. It's sad but true, what happened to reliable work from folks you could trust that would stand behind their work if something did go wrong.
And the worst part of it all (and not limited to transmission shops) is that I have NEVER seen a shop that is worth paying them a shop rate of 100 bucks or more per hour.
 

SirRobyn0

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And the worst part of it all (and not limited to transmission shops) is that I have NEVER seen a shop that is worth paying them a shop rate of 100 bucks or more per hour.
You oughta see shop rates in the Puget sound area. Pretty much starting on the low end around $120 an hour. And the ones that charge a lower rate are marking up the book time, so you might find a shop charging $80, but they are "marking up" an hour of labor by charging (as an example) 1.3 hours of time for the hour. Talk about deceptive practices. One of the many reasons I've been so choosy about the shops I'll go to work for and the bad rap the industry has is one of the reason I want out. I don't mean to digress to much here I just want you to know that there are folks in the industry fed up with this stuff too.
 

SquareRoot

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Sooo glad I swapped to the 4500. Transmission shops? KEK
 

scrap--metal

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@TFerguson both of these options are the real deal if you got the coin.

Bowtie overdrive.

Jakes's Transmissions in Bridgeport, TX.

It's not in either of my squares, but I have a 200-4R from Bowtie Overdrives in my '79 Camaro. Giving it an extra gear over the TH350 was the best thing I've ever done to the car. It's been doing great for over a decade (14 years I think). I never had any issues with it, and their setup procedures are good. We recorded pressures in each gear and ran the first test drive with a pressure gauge on it. I used their TV made EZ cable kit. Factory square stuff should be a lot easier to set up and adjust.

My dad has a 200-4R from Jake in his '80 Camaro. He got that after his Craigslist unit took a s**t. That might've been caused by a bad TV cable, but we never took it apart to figure out what went wrong and I honestly don't remember how it failed him. Anyway, Jake's transmission is doing great in his car. Jake used to be very active on the Camaro forum, and is still very well respected over there.

I am not sure if Jake does much with 700r4/4l60e. But working with them on my 4l80e build
I think Viktor is right. My old man told me that Jake was mostly doing 4l80e stuff now.

whatever you do make sure that the tv cable gets adjusted properly or you're pissing in the wind
^^^ This is the most important point of them all.
 

TFerguson

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Thanks again to all for all the input - very helpful. I have called around to a few local shops and did finally talk to one that I got a decent vibe from. Guy was friendly and seemed like he knew what he was talking about. So most likely I'll be taking it to them to get the current unit rebuilt. I won't "name names" until I decide whether to do business with them, but will report back on the results either way.
 

Bextreme04

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A local shop with a good warranty and reputation is definitely the absolute best choice. It isn't always an option for everyone, but if you can find one it's the way to go, especially for a 700R4.

Jakes is VERY well known in the high performance and specifically the 4l80E world. He makes some top notch parts and rebuild kits. The only downsides I've heard are that sometimes there can be a significant wait for parts to ship(because he's good and therefore in high demand) and then the standard complaints of customer service support and attitude. The customer service and attitude complaints usually boil down to "he didn't sit with me on the phone and walk me through me rebuilding my own transmission" and also the fact that he's an Infantry(Ranger) combat vet and he doesn't really give an F about your feelings. He'll call it like he sees it. Sometimes that rubs people the wrong way and I get it.

The upside to all of that is that being a straightforward vet like he is, he will stand behind his work and he seems to take great pride in making a high quality product, hence the big success he is having with people who value results and are competent enough to not piss him off with BS.

Personally, I would just buy a high quality rebuild kit and do the work myself. If you are competent enough to rebuild an engine or a car axle, you shouldn't have too much trouble with a transmission. They really aren't that complicated, I've done a 6L80e and am in the middle of a 4l80e rebuild right now. If you take your time and get yourself an ATSG manual, it is totally doable with a minimal amount of special tools.
 

oldretiredafguy

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@TFerguson both of these options are the real deal if you got the coin.





It's not in either of my squares, but I have a 200-4R from Bowtie Overdrives in my '79 Camaro. Giving it an extra gear over the TH350 was the best thing I've ever done to the car. It's been doing great for over a decade (14 years I think). I never had any issues with it, and their setup procedures are good. We recorded pressures in each gear and ran the first test drive with a pressure gauge on it. I used their TV made EZ cable kit. Factory square stuff should be a lot easier to set up and adjust.

My dad has a 200-4R from Jake in his '80 Camaro. He got that after his Craigslist unit took a s**t. That might've been caused by a bad TV cable, but we never took it apart to figure out what went wrong and I honestly don't remember how it failed him. Anyway, Jake's transmission is doing great in his car. Jake used to be very active on the Camaro forum, and is still very well respected over there.


I think Viktor is right. My old man told me that Jake was mostly doing 4l80e stuff now.


^^^ This is the most important point of them all.
I think if you read between the lines on Jake's discussions about racing transmissions, he is not too keen on messing with 4L60E's and 700R4's. Tells us a lot about which transmissions to use, and the reasons he gives for his thought processes.
 

SquareRoot

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AA transmission is the bomb.
 

Frankenchevy

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And the worst part of it all (and not limited to transmission shops) is that I have NEVER seen a shop that is worth paying them a shop rate of 100 bucks or more per hour.

You oughta see shop rates in the Puget sound area. Pretty much starting on the low end around $120 an hour. And the ones that charge a lower rate are marking up the book time, so you might find a shop charging $80, but they are "marking up" an hour of labor by charging (as an example) 1.3 hours of time for the hour. Talk about deceptive practices. One of the many reasons I've been so choosy about the shops I'll go to work for and the bad rap the industry has is one of the reason I want out. I don't mean to digress to much here I just want you to know that there are folks in the industry fed up with this stuff too.
I only take vehicles to the dealer for covered maintenance or warranty work. Just recently I had a vehicle at the dealer here. Their rate was over $200/hr. I did a double take to see if my eyes were deceiving me. That’s double what most professionals are making in this area. Using my formula (billing for about triple what an employee’s hourly rate is), the technician’s must be making close to $70/hr; though I highly doubt it.
 

SirRobyn0

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I only take vehicles to the dealer for covered maintenance or warranty work. Just recently I had a vehicle at the dealer here. Their rate was over $200/hr. I did a double take to see if my eyes were deceiving me. That’s double what most professionals are making in this area. Using my formula (billing for about triple what an employee’s hourly rate is), the technician’s must be making close to $70/hr; though I highly doubt it.
$70 an hour ha. Not happening at least not around here. That use to be industry standard in automotive too. Typically the top tech or techs in a shop would be getting that rate with the lower levels under that. At least in this area back when shops were charging $60 - $70 an hour it was common that the top guy would be getting $20 - $23 an hour, slowly shop rates have gone up while tech pay has not gone up near as much. Now, few shops will pay more than about $40. you might find a dealers doing $45 for the best guys. And nearly all shops pay flat rate now. Flat rate pay has issue, but was once a system that was decent at least, but it's changed to a system basically designed to short change the tech, and encourage poor work done quickly. Some shops, will do this: Say the book time on a job calls for 1.2 hours, shop marks it up to 1.6 hours because they are running labor matrix, you can darn well bet the tech is only seeing the 1.2, worse yet if the shop knows the average real world time of a job is .8 then they are paying the tech "average job rate". In that scenario the shop just charged the customer twice the amount of time they paid the tech. Pretty dirty BS IMO. Of course not all shops are doing that stuff, but it's out there.

Not surprised to hear about the $200 + rate either.
 

scrap--metal

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I think if you read between the lines on Jake's discussions about racing transmissions, he is not too keen on messing with 4L60E's and 700R4's. Tells us a lot about which transmissions to use, and the reasons he gives for his thought processes.
No reading between the lines is necessary. He's primarily building "racing transmissions" these days, so of course he's going to focus on the stronger transmission to work with. 4L80e's are the new TH400s in my mind. Nobody chose a TH350 over a TH400 for their race car before the modern transmissions were introduced.

The OP's Blazer does not need a "racing transmission". A 700R4 will suit his Blazer well, and save on the expense of retrofitting anything.
 

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