Trans cooler lines help

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hey all,
I’m replacing my radiator and need to fix an engine oil cooler line going from the oil filter up to the radiator across the radiator and in. Not just right to the radiator I’m finding allot of the wrong ones but none of the ones I need.

Truck is a 1987 v20 suburban with a 6.2 diesel in it. It’s my second suburban with a diesel last one was an 85 same line setup and I remember replacing them before just having trouble finding them.
 
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Edit: so I can find the ends that go to the filter/block inlets but I can’t find the pair of hard lines that go across the radiator and into it

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Frankenchevy

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My trans cooler lines are steel from the trans case to the radiator. Yours look more like a hydraulic crimp like the ones for a power steering pump. I’ve seen ones for sale as I’ve described on my setup. The shape will be specific to your trans and radiator size.

If I’m not mistaken, the oil isn’t pumped out with great force. Most auto parts stores carry rubber trans cooler line. It’s not perfect, but if the flare/flare nut ends are salvageable you can cut the last few inches of your existing hose and flare a barb onto it. Then you can clamp the rubber stuff onto it. Again, not ideal but will get you up and running the quickest.

If your handy with a tube bender and flaring tool, you can buy tubing and make your own lines.
 

Blue Ox

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He's talking about the engine oil cooler not the trans.

Sorry, no idea where to get those except the bone yard. A good hydraulics shop should be able to replicate or replace the hoses for you if they're not available elsewhere.
 

Daveo91Burb

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I found upper and lower (engine) oil cooler lines on Amazon for my 91. Typically they're Dorman and not well made - one of mine had a stripped fitting out of the box. However, you may consider an alternative: eliminating the factory oil cooler. I met a guy on a different forum that apparently was a GM engineer in at least part of our trucks' runs -- he claims oil cooler will only drop oil temp a few degrees, yet the design of the adapter bypass allows more and more oil to bypass the filter as it gets more restrictive. I found a regular SBC oil filter adapter on amazon and many of the reviews said the same thing: allows elimination of the leaky hoses and the oil cooler doesn't help much anyway. He also recommended a Delco PF932 long filter instead of the regular short filter which allows an additional quart of oil. (That may be just as good as the cooler, who knows)
 

75gmck25

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If you want to bypass the in-radiator cooler, Long Mfg (https://trucool.com/) makes several products that can be configured as auxiliary engine oil coolers. I've only used their transmission coolers, but found they were really well made. At one point I think most Ford and Chevy OEM coolers were provided by Long.

Bruce
 

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He's talking about the engine oil cooler not the trans.
That’s what I get for reading the title and skimming!

Maybe what was already suggested, but would buying an oil filter adapter kit with all the plumbing for external cooler remedy the situation? Unless originality is your objective.
 

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That’s what I get for reading the title and skimming!

Maybe what was already suggested, but would buying an oil filter adapter kit with all the plumbing for external cooler remedy the situation? Unless originality is your objective.

It's also what I get for just glancing over the title. When I revisited it this morning I realized what happened.

Forums, like everything else in life, have their limitations.
 

82Diesel

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This is the ****** thing about 6.2s Majority of the Lines are not Available. :33:
Got mine from the Bone yard too. They are rare in my area. I'm I think... The only one in like a 50-100 Mile Radius with a 6.2! lol
 
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Well I ended up using the old lines even though I twisted one a little it will probably be alright. Got new lines to replace the one from the block to the crossover lines I guess I will call them. It wasn’t bent correctly at all so I had to hand mangle it into something that would thread between the shifting rod,exhaust,firewall,wiring, steeringshaft, and the oil cooler line beside it. Doesn’t line up with the mounting bracket anymore and looks like ****. I zip tied it to something else. W/e it might work. I’m getting sick of this whole project. Spent an obscene amount of money on parts that have been a complete cluster **** from one end to the other these lines just being the latest mess. Still not sure where to get mounting hardware for my steering damper. When I looked after buying a new damper with my lift kit I found that every damper u find comes with hardware and cost less than the one I Baught. However I could not find just the hardware. Spend five times more than you would on a cheap part but get less..... awesome. Better damper is kind of useless if I can’t mount it. I’m sure that it is completely impossible thing to find and will have to be hand made by me after make the steel to......FML
 

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Well I ended up using the old lines even though I twisted one a little it will probably be alright. Got new lines to replace the one from the block to the crossover lines I guess I will call them. It wasn’t bent correctly at all so I had to hand mangle it into something that would thread between the shifting rod,exhaust,firewall,wiring, steeringshaft, and the oil cooler line beside it. Doesn’t line up with the mounting bracket anymore and looks like ****. I zip tied it to something else. W/e it might work. I’m getting sick of this whole project. Spent an obscene amount of money on parts that have been a complete cluster **** from one end to the other these lines just being the latest mess. Still not sure where to get mounting hardware for my steering damper. When I looked after buying a new damper with my lift kit I found that every damper u find comes with hardware and cost less than the one I Baught. However I could not find just the hardware. Spend five times more than you would on a cheap part but get less..... awesome. Better damper is kind of useless if I can’t mount it. I’m sure that it is completely impossible thing to find and will have to be hand made by me after make the steel to......FML
Sucks it turned into such a PITA

For future reference, nicopp is easy to bend to accomplish whatever routing is necessary. With a tubing cutter, double flare tool, internal/external chamfer tool and hand bender; one can make hardlines to fit just about any application.

That, or earls makes fluid tubing that’ll carry any fluid at whatever pressure necessary for most automobile applications.
 

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