Torque Value Calculation, JD 310D

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AKguy

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Trying to figure out the rear wheel cap screw, 3/4x10, torque for my loader backhoe. Here’s the manual info. I am guessing the “equation” relates to force and distance. I have them torqued at 85 foot pounds right now. I’m sure some of you know this stuff. Thanks.
 

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MarineOne

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Trying to figure out the rear wheel cap screw, 3/4x10, torque for my loader backhoe. Here’s the manual info. I am guessing the “equation” relates to force and distance. I have them torqued at 85 foot pounds right now. I’m sure some of you know this stuff. Thanks.
Is this the wheel studs? I've only seen a torque spec written like that when it's etting up a bearing
 

AKguy

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Is this the wheel studs? I've only seen a torque spec written like that when it's etting up a bearing
Both the front wheel nuts and the rear wheel cap screws (bolts).
 

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The way I read that,you torque them in 2 stages,second stage is to seat them. Then back them off a measured amount,probably to prevent them from snapping under stress and heat. Recheck torque is 85lbs,check every 100 hours. I do not know about your application but certain cars will have brake problems from improper torque on the wheels. The drums and rotors flex,just for fun an old 5 lug VW bug you have to torque a plate in place of a wheel on the drum before you turn it to mimic the drum distortion.
 

AKguy

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The way I read that,you torque them in 2 stages,second stage is to seat them. Then back them off a measured amount,probably to prevent them from snapping under stress and heat. Recheck torque is 85lbs,check every 100 hours. I do not know about your application but certain cars will have brake problems from improper torque on the wheels. The drums and rotors flex,just for fun an old 5 lug VW bug you have to torque a plate in place of a wheel on the drum before you turn it to mimic the drum distortion.
Thanks. The rub is how do you measure backing them off? Angle? Distance? If distance, what scale is used? This stuff drives me crazy (ier).
 

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The font makes it look a little weird, but I believe that's saying 425 ft lbs nominal, you can go over by 125 ft lbs, but only go under by 85 ft lbs. So essentially somewhere between 550 and 340 is ok, but if you have a wrench, set it for 425.

That's a heckuva range, but is in the ballpark for 3/4 lug nuts on heavy trucks?
 

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The font makes it look a little weird, but I believe that's saying 425 ft lbs nominal, you can go over by 125 ft lbs, but only go under by 85 ft lbs. So essentially somewhere between 550 and 340 is ok, but if you have a wrench, set it for 425.

That's a heckuva range, but is in the ballpark for 3/4 lug nuts on heavy trucks?
I agree. That's how I would read that... but it definitely isn't standard terminology. That torque range seems about right for tempered steel 3/4-10 ASTM A490 bolts, so that's what I would do. You're gonna need a heck of a 3/4" torque wrench to get there.
https://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/
 

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Or a torque multiplier. That's what I use at work for the heavy stuff.
 

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Great replies. Thank you.
 

AKguy

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The way I read that,you torque them in 2 stages,second stage is to seat them. Then back them off a measured amount,probably to prevent them from snapping under stress and heat. Recheck torque is 85lbs,check every 100 hours. I do not know about your application but certain cars will have brake problems from improper torque on the wheels. The drums and rotors flex,just for fun an old 5 lug VW bug you have to torque a plate in place of a wheel on the drum before you turn it to mimic the drum distortion.
According to the fine gentlemen over at another forum dealing with heavy equipment, the values are a plus or minus affair, so, for the rears, it is 425 foot pounds plus 125 or minus 85. Seems like a huge spread, 210, to me.
 

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