Too low. Need help recovering or leveling.

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projectmidnight74

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74 c10. 5/7 drop kit installed..new leaf springs on the rear with the flip kit.
Issue is within the front. Springs are not staying seated. Not sure how to get it to act right as this is what came with the kit. Any help would be great. Do we get new springs, if so, which ones or do we attach adjustable stabilizers and stretch em up to get the clearance we need.
 

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projectmidnight74

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How it sits vs where I need it to sit for full turn and bounce.
 

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TotalyHucked

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Wow, that's a huge difference. My truck sits where yours does currently and I turn just fine. No way I'd wanna raise it up that far. But, if you absolutely insist on it, buy some OE half ton or 3/4 ton big block springs and trim them ~1/4 coil at a time until you're happy. It's a lot of work to trim a little at a time, reassemble, check, disassemble, trim, reassemble, etc but that's the only way you'll get it where you want it.

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projectmidnight74

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Wow, that's a huge difference. My truck sits where yours does currently and I turn just fine. No way I'd wanna raise it up that far. But, if you absolutely insist on it, buy some OE half ton or 3/4 ton big block springs and trim them ~1/4 coil at a time until you're happy. It's a lot of work to trim a little at a time, reassemble, check, disassemble, trim, reassemble, etc but that's the only way you'll get it where you want it.

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Only reason I'm considering is because the top is the tire is almost striking he tub. I can barely get my hand in here..not much travel. All suggestions are on the table.
 

TotalyHucked

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Only reason I'm considering is because the top is the tire is almost striking he tub. I can barely get my hand in here..not much travel. All suggestions are on the table.
Oh, the tub? Not the fender? Let 'er eat and deal with the scrubbing, remove them, or get some SloshTubz. I ran my current setup with my stock tubs (and '81-up tubs have less room than yours) for a few thousand miles before I got the SloshTubz. Now I have TONS of room
 

projectmidnight74

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I really gotta triple check the turn radius at the current level. worried bout slicing the tire with the outer fender. Will check back with an update on that.
 

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It's hard to tell. Are those 20x8 or the 20x9.5 versions? I've got 20x8s that are 4.54" and have plenty of clearance to the fender. They only scrubbed on the tops of the inner fenders (tubs) when I had the stock ones. I've never caught the fender trim or lip
 

TotalyHucked

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I'm parked at full RH lock right now

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TotalyHucked

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Man that looks great!
Yeah, plenty of room. I turn in our driveway all the time at full lock over the gutter and never rub. And I'm not crawling either.

I mentioned the x8 and x9.5 earlier, but re-looking at the specs on US Mag's site, it doesn't matter. The extra 1.5" is to the inside. He should be able to clear just fine. Worst case, might need to roll the fender lips a bit but no way in hell I'd raise the truck up.
 

projectmidnight74

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Yeah, plenty of room. I turn in our driveway all the time at full lock over the gutter and never rub. And I'm not crawling either.

I mentioned the x8 and x9.5 earlier, but re-looking at the specs on US Mag's site, it doesn't matter. The extra 1.5" is to the inside. He should be able to clear just fine. Worst case, might need to roll the fender lips a bit but no way in hell I'd raise the truck up.
I hope so, I will go by the shop tomorrow and test the turn radius again. But the vertical clearance still bothers me. I cant get my full hand underneath there and that's gonna be a problem. But I may just drive it and see once we change the springs. The spring issue is the biggest problem right now. They wont stay put. Im being told that they place them but when the truck moves or shake they shift out of pocket. When in the air I can reach in there and jiggle it and shift it a full 360. Do I need to go back to the factory shocks with such an aggressive drop.
 

TotalyHucked

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I hope so, I will go by the shop tomorrow and test the turn radius again. But the vertical clearance still bothers me. I cant get my full hand underneath there and that's gonna be a problem. But I may just drive it and see once we change the springs. The spring issue is the biggest problem right now. They wont stay put. Im being told that they place them but when the truck moves or shake they shift out of pocket. When in the air I can reach in there and jiggle it and shift it a full 360. Do I need to go back to the factory shocks with such an aggressive drop.
What exactly are the specs of the front kit? 2.5" spindle and 2" springs? I've never heard anyone have an issue with the springs coming out of their pockets, even with 3" drop springs.

That said, I can do the same with my springs when it's in the air, rotate them by hand. It's never been an issue in 35k miles. Get the truck off the lift, back it straight out and then back forward at least 20ft each way or so to get the suspension to settle out. Then slowly idle forward turning the wheel until you get to full lock. Then park it, get out and look. If you hear/feel anything before you get to full lock, don't move the wheel at all, get out and look. I'd put money on you'll be fine or just need to massage the fender lip up a touch.
 

projectmidnight74

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Specs on the kit are:
1973-1987 Chevy / GMC C10 Squarebody 5" Front 7" Rear Lowering Kit

Description:
Included in this kit is our 3" lowering spindles and 2" lowering springs giving you a 5" front drop. Out back we've included a 5" flip with an adjustable lowering shackle giving you the option to lower the rear 6" or 7"

Made In The USA
LIFETIME WARRANTY


APPLICATIONS

1973-1987 Chevrolet Silverado C10
1973-1987 GMC Sierra C15
1.25" Rotor Thickness ONLY
 

TotalyHucked

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As for shocks, you'll need drop shocks. I have the Belltech SP shocks for a 4-5" drop up front, PN# 2103HA.

In the rear, when I only had the flip kit and relocators, I had stock length Belltech SPs. Now that I have added the 2" shackle as well, I have drop shocks PN# 2208HF.
 

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