Time for a new radiator

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Hatchet54

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Posts
276
Reaction score
250
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Red
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
1500 Sierra Grande
Engine Size
350
Hey guys, I've had a new radiator on my to-do list this summer as I'm pretty sure it is original to the truck and is starting to show some serious age. But as of last weekend it has now begun to leak, which means it is officially time to spring for a new one.

I'm looking for opinions on what some of you have used as a performance upgrade for a stock qjet 350. The options online are pretty numerous and I really don't know the good from the bad.

I'm not looking for anything crazy, just something that would ideally keep me cool while pulling an occasional trailer.

Thanks!
 

Frankenchevy

Proverbs 16:18
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Posts
6,084
Reaction score
7,759
Location
USA
First Name
Jeremy
Truck Year
Square
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
Small
I had this same debate with myself. Decided to get mine rebuilt. The choice became easy once a few members beat me over the head telling me I had the big diesel radiator.

There are some pretty sweet looking aluminum radiators with electric fan setups on here, too.
 

RecklessWOT

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2015
Posts
2,556
Reaction score
4,764
Location
New Hampshire
First Name
Kevin
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V10 Suburban Silverado
Engine Size
350 TBI
I am in the same boat. Mine doesn't leak but it's pretty damn full of calcium. Still flows but on really hot days if I'm asking a lot from it the temp will start running higher than I'd like to see it. Only a matter of time till I have to replace it. Since there are no such things as radiator shops anymore I was just gonna throw a new radiator at it from the parts store or whatever, but since it's ******* 2019 of course it won't be brass, it's gonna be aluminum tubes with plastic tanks (which I reeeaaaaally don't want under my hood). I was thinking about getting a nice welded aluminum radiator but that's big money that I don't feel like spending.

I'd be happy to see what some others suggest too
 

Arkansas_V8

Proud Redneck
Joined
Jul 1, 2019
Posts
3,022
Reaction score
3,963
Location
Springdale, Arkansas
First Name
Brent
Truck Year
88
Truck Model
V20 Suburban
Engine Size
5.7
Just get one for a Suburban or 1 ton with all the options. Only thing bigger is a diesel radiator.

I run a huge 4 core with two 12" electric fans. I can slowly crawl all day, or bang high rpms all day in the mud, and keep it close to 150° all day if I want.
 

Frankenchevy

Proverbs 16:18
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Posts
6,084
Reaction score
7,759
Location
USA
First Name
Jeremy
Truck Year
Square
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
Small
I am in the same boat. Mine doesn't leak but it's pretty damn full of calcium. Still flows but on really hot days if I'm asking a lot from it the temp will start running higher than I'd like to see it. Only a matter of time till I have to replace it. Since there are no such things as radiator shops anymore I was just gonna throw a new radiator at it from the parts store or whatever, but since it's ******* 2019 of course it won't be brass, it's gonna be aluminum tubes with plastic tanks (which I reeeaaaaally don't want under my hood). I was thinking about getting a nice welded aluminum radiator but that's big money that I don't feel like spending.

I'd be happy to see what some others suggest too
No radiator shops near you at all? Damn
 

Blue Ox

Turning Diesel Fuel Into Fun
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Posts
5,220
Reaction score
12,020
Location
LI-NY
First Name
Derek
Truck Year
MCMLXXXV
Truck Model
K20HD
Engine Size
6.2L
I know I'm in the wilderness here, but I've probably put a dozen brass/copper radiators in my truck. I've only needed one aluminum and plastic one. YMMV.
 

shiftpro

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
4,855
Reaction score
6,092
Location
BC Canada
First Name
shiftpro
Truck Year
73-87
Truck Model
1500, 2500, 3500
Engine Size
350, 383, 454, 496!
I was at Rock Auto yesterday and I'm surprised the aluminum rads they have. The big diesel 3 core with aluminum tanks is under $400.
 

Camar068

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2014
Posts
4,293
Reaction score
3,339
Location
Kentucky
First Name
David
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
Engine Size
10 yrs Air Force
Hey guys, I've had a new radiator on my to-do list....!

If it's the original, look and ask all shops around if there is a repair shop around. Between here in KY and FL, if it's minor your looking at well less than $50. Keep the original if possible.
 

Nonstop

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2014
Posts
775
Reaction score
2,421
Location
Ca
First Name
Nick
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K2500
Engine Size
454
Just went through this. My brass one started leaking. I have run Champions on my 2 other cars and am very happy with them. They have a lifetime warranty.

I chose a parts store radiator for my truck because it also has a lifetime warranty and can get a replacement in a matter of a day or two. I have been happy with this one so far and it is aluminum and plastic with 2 huge tubes to replace my 4 small ones.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,134
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
If it's not your daily, or if life allows having the truck down long enough to have the OE BRASS unit repaired, that's my first choice.
 

Hatchet54

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Posts
276
Reaction score
250
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Red
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
1500 Sierra Grande
Engine Size
350
If it's not your daily, or if life allows having the truck down long enough to have the OE BRASS unit repaired, that's my first choice.

So just out of curiosity what makes the OE radiator desirable over a new unit? I am certainly open to the idea of repairing the original, I just figured a new one would be an improvement.

Looking at some of the Champions and they seem pretty nice and I like the warranty. Anybody else have one?
 

Frankenchevy

Proverbs 16:18
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Posts
6,084
Reaction score
7,759
Location
USA
First Name
Jeremy
Truck Year
Square
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
Small
Brass is more malleable than aluminum. I think that is why some believe aluminum to be more prone to failure in high vibration situations.

From my experience with any mass produced item we’re (the collective we) buying for these trucks, there’s a possibility of receiving a defective unit. It seems like it’s more common than it was in the past. Might be the shear number of parts produced versus QC protocols.

The good news is, for the most part retailers understand this and won’t bat an eye swapping it out for you. The bad news is, you have to deal with the headaches of part failure and replacement.

That’s why I buy from retailers with proven return policies i.e. summit. They’ve swapped out more stuff than I care to mention free of charge. Fortunately, I have back up vehicles.

If it is a daily, it’d be beneficial to get it from your favorite local auto parts store. That way if it does need a warranty swap, it’s immediate. Aaand, you can do it in their parking lot to prove a point—pool of coolant and all!
 

Dutch Rutter

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Posts
1,081
Reaction score
1,231
Location
Independence, Or
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
So just out of curiosity what makes the OE radiator desirable over a new unit? I am certainly open to the idea of repairing the original, I just figured a new one would be an improvement.

Looking at some of the Champions and they seem pretty nice and I like the warranty. Anybody else have one?

Generally the brass OEM units can be repaired. The plastic cap ones just get replaced. I believe they all cool about the same as far as effectiveness, unless one is larger or a higher grade unit. Back in ye ole days a radiator shop was a normal thing and would repair a brass unit cheap. Today people just replace the entire plastic cap units. Plus what @Frankenchevy said. Really cant go wrong, keeping OE if doable is usually prefered but if not, do what you can.
 

78C10BigTen

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2017
Posts
15,948
Reaction score
25,343
Location
pennsylvannia
First Name
Ted
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10 BIG TEN
Engine Size
350
I still run the factory brass one. I also have a repair shop less then an hour away. I just got two brass ones in my truck load of parts that need repair i may have repaired as spare
 

CSFJ

-----------------
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Posts
6,160
Reaction score
5,170
Location
------
First Name
-------------
Truck Year
-------
Truck Model
-------
Engine Size
-------
And, fwiw, aluminum is said to dissipate heat more efficiently than the brass does, allowing use of fewer cores to get the same job done. Again, ymmv. I guess I really don't favor one over the other, all of the squares I've owned over the years have had the factory brass radiators, but if I couldn't get a replacement, or had one damaged beyond repair, I'd spring for one of the better performance units with the welded aluminum tanks.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,168
Posts
950,804
Members
36,286
Latest member
goodwrenchca
Top