Tierod jam nuts stuck

[flyboy1100]

Any advice on how to remove them before i attempt to cut them off?

I am using pb blaster, havent tried propane torch yet but that is my only option for heat.

Might help too if i wasnt using a 12" crescent wrench, but it is larger than 1 1/4" (not much though)and i dont have one, anyone know the proper size?

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[MadOgre]

I used a crescent and a box wrench. I used my floor jack to push up on one while using a pipe on the other. It was awkward but it worked.

I just basically held the one wrench with my pipe while jacking on the floor jack.

 

[MadOgre]

Im sure if you had 2 pieces of pipe 3 or 4 feet long and the correct box wrenches, you could probably undo them easy peasy!

 

[flyboy1100]

Right, but the jam nut is slightly larger than 1 1/4", probably 33mm. I think i will buy another wrench and just grind it a little so it fits, it is 0.04" larger

I was going to grab a pipe today and i will try your floor jack trick

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[flyboy1100]

Got a 3 foot cheater and a custom 1 1/4 wrench. Wish me luck!

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[friscobob]

This is where a pic would be helpful. Is it possible the you are dealing with a left handed thread? Not knowing/seeing makes it difficult to understand the problem.

 

[flyboy1100]

The drivers side is left hand thread, passenger is right hand thread. I used my new parts to verify, they are just really rusted on.

Might have those backwards, either way i used new parts to confirm direction of rotation for loosening the nuts

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[flyboy1100]

Custom wrench got them!

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[MadOgre]

Cool!

 

[flyboy1100]

How about the joint in the pitman arm, do i need to press that out, or what's the trick to get that thing loose?

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[chengny]

It's basically just a tie-rod end. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut. Then to break the taper fit:

1. Use a sledge hammer and whack the hell out of the stud

2. Try to split it with a pickle fork

3. Take your sledge hammer, and using it as a backing tool, whack the side of the pitman arm directly across from the sledge hammer. You can use a much smaller hammer to sharply strike the side of the pitman arm. This, in theory anyway, will cause the pitman to momentarily deform and lose it's clamp on the taper of the tie-rod end. The tie-rod will then simply fall out of the pitman arm.

I have about a 75% success rate using this method.

It is best, if for whatever reason, you intend to reuse the tie-rod. As opposed to the first two ways, it will not ruin the rubber boot or the threaded stem.

 

[flyboy1100]

I don't plan to reuse this one, but when i do ball joints i will need to reuse the tie rod ends so that method is worth a try.

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