Think I need new springs? shocks? ROUGH RIDE

[Craig 85]

I believe the comment about sway bar froze is right on as one of the first things to check.When I first modified my truck,I put the drop brackets included with the lift kit for the sway bar.

However,when I made a few other mods and removed the swaybar,my truck gained an inch in lift on the front easily.I was amazed that even with the relocation brackets on,how much the swaybar restricted my suspension.This was proved yet again on the first ride without the swaybar...much more better.

Obviously,I agree with all the other comments and suggestions.I also think there is other contributing factors.Also,maybe put a loaded trailer on it and see how it does.I have a newer 3/4 ton truck that I promise rides worse than your burb,however,when it has a 800lb 4wheeler in the bed,it rides so well,I never wanna unload it.

I run the ORD Sway Bar Disconnect kit for the reasons you described. In the early 90's I did a 6" lift on a K5. I added the swap bar drop down brackets, but it was difficult to get things to line up. It made me believe the sway bar and springs work in different arcs causing a bind in the suspension creating a rough ride.

When I got back into Squares in 2012, I started using the ORD kit. The main reason I got it was to let the sway bar work independent of the springs.

@83Burban CUCV axles are 1 ton axles. Dana 60 front and 14 bolt full floater rear.

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[Bextreme04]

I run the ORD Sway Bar Disconnect kit for the reasons you described. In the early 90's I did a 6" lift on a K5. I added the swap bar drop down brackets, but it was difficult to get things to line up. It made me believe the sway bar and springs work in different arcs causing a bind in the suspension creating a rough ride.

When I got back into Squares in 2012, I started using the ORD kit. The main reason I got it was to let the sway bar work independent of the springs.

@83Burban CUCV axles are 1 ton axles. Dana 60 front and 14 bolt full floater rear.

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That looks almost exactly like the setup I'm putting on mine right now. Tuff Country front springs and shocks, ORD sway bar disconnect, ORD HD shackles and greasable bushings. Did you also make the front swap bar bushings greasable? I was thinking about just unbolting everything, cleaning it all up and painting it, and then greasing the heck out of the stock bushings before I put the disconnect kit on.

 

[77 K20]

You should look into getting new bumpstops for the front suspension. That factory one isn't very flexible anymore. They make some nice squishy aftermarket ones to replace it. And if you put a lift on it you should extend the bump stop down a bit, or buy a longer bumpstop. Don't want your springs "over collapsing" if you hit a huge bump.

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[Craig 85]

That looks almost exactly like the setup I'm putting on mine right now. Tuff Country front springs and shocks, ORD sway bar disconnect, ORD HD shackles and greasable bushings. Did you also make the front swap bar bushings greasable? I was thinking about just unbolting everything, cleaning it all up and painting it, and then greasing the heck out of the stock bushings before I put the disconnect kit on.

I have ORD's greaseable shackles on the front and I lubed everything else. I bought the HD springs per the recommendation of having a 454, but I may remove the 4th leaf as it rides rough.

 

[Bextreme04]

I have ORD's greaseable shackles on the front and I lubed everything else. I bought the HD springs per the recommendation of having a 454, but I may remove the 4th leaf as it rides rough.

Mine are also the "HD" and I pulled the 4th spring. I'll still have them if it gets too squishy or slumps too much when I swap in the 454, but right now I'm wanting the soft ride.

 

[rich weyand]

The uneven look is probably from the wheel well cutouts. They all look like they're draggin' ass.

The fronts of the stock Ks all ride hard because of the negative arch leaf springs. The Cs with coils don't have that problem.

I put Tough Country EZ-Ride springs and shocks front and rear. I put +2 in the front to get a positive-arch leaf spring, and +3 in the back to clean up the draggin'-ass look.

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[Joshua Keith]

The uneven look is probably from the wheel well cutouts. They all look like they're draggin' ass.

The fronts of the stock Ks all ride hard because of the negative arch leaf springs. The Cs with coils don't have that problem.

I put Tough Country EZ-Ride springs and shocks front and rear. I put +2 in the front to get a positive-arch leaf spring, and +3 in the back to clean up the draggin'-ass look.

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Beautiful truck! Would look good with 33”s!

I bought the tuff country ez-rides 2” lift front and back and it make a pretty big difference. It’s still not going to come close to an ORD spring or c10 ride tho.

 

[rpcraft]

If it rides rough you are probably needing to get new shocks and also replace all your bushings. Old perished rubber will make stuff not rotate and move as it should and it will prevent proper suspension cycling.

 

[Memaloose]

Have you checked the tire balance? If they're not balanced you'll get a rough ride at highway speeds. Maybe a weight came off. Also, the shocks look old, I'd definitely replace them.
I'm looking to replace the shackle bushings on the front end of my '75 K20, they're original. I just replaced the swaybar bushings. 90% of my driving is off road with my truck and with the 4:10 gears, I don't go over 60 on the highway so I don't feel any rough ride. My K20 has 2 front leafs like your suburban.

 

[rumpity_z28]

Theres a few things to look at. Post some pics of the springs, front and rear. Most of us can ID if they are stock or aftermarket and possibly even the manufacturer just from how the springs look. The most likely issue, if they are stock, would be frozen bolts, degraded bushings, or frozen shocks. If anything in the suspension is frozen up and not letting the suspension flex, it can have a huge impact on ride. It's also possible that someone put a 2.5-4" Rough Country spring kit on it, which has been described as "riding like a dump truck"....

Is there any peticular reason why suspension company would make a spring that is way too stiff for a truck. I could see for the rear that carries added weight but not on the front which is always a set weight

 

[Bextreme04]

Is there any peticular reason why suspension company would make a spring that is way too stiff for a truck. I could see for the rear that carries added weight but not on the front which is always a set weight

They aren't always a set weight. The difference in weight can vary by quite a bit depending on what engine/trans combo you have and what accessories have been installed. If you have a 454/th400/np205.. you are going to be many hundreds of pounds heavier than a 292/700R4/NP208 would be. Same thing if you have a big winch bumper, heavy winch, second battery, snow plow attachment, etc...

Also, people have different preferences and do different things with their trucks. I like the sway bar disconnect because I can leave it unhooked for normal driving around town and offroading, then connect it when I have a few thousand pounds of gravel in the bed or am towing my trailer. Best of both worlds.

The rough country springs are the cheapest garbage on the market. They probably did very little development work and just got the cheapest source for the spring that would fit the correct lift height they were looking for. That's why they are the cheapest option.

 

[rpcraft]

If it has never had anything done as far as bushings but you are happy with the ride height then it probably needs new bushings for your springs and shackles and sway bar. Judging by the shocks you could use an upgrade there as well. I would suggest bilsteins all around. The 5100 series is fine. Last I checked they do not make a steering stabilizer/damper but those wear a little different than shocks, but still worth checking for replacement. While you are at it it might be a good time to check the ball joints, especially since replacing the bushings is an off the truck job anyways. While you are in there check out the steering box for wear as well as the drag link and tie rods. No sense skimping when it comes to keeping the rubber on the road. If you use some of the ORD greasable bolts and poly bushings you will have the best performance and able to grease them so they don't squeak.