The clutch is here, 4500 conversion done by New Years. You hear that @frankenchevy?

[SDJunkMan]

You need a 32 spline shaft. The passenger side slave I’ve heard a couple of things. External I think would be a problem. Internal slave should be workable. By far the simplest, albeit not the cheapest is to get the AA bellhousing. I think it’s PN 712576. It’ll allow you to use the 465 clutch components and mechanical clutch linkage or hydraulic from an 85-87 if you chose that route.

The hardest part for me to source was a hydroboost/hydraulic clutch pedal assembly. Finally found one cruising through old classifieds on this site.

As far as the 205, I think the round pattern bolts straight up like the 208, but the figure 8 hourglass ones need an adapter.

I knew that the input shaft on my 205 is wrong. I think the one on the Blazer transfer case is wrong too. I think AA makes an adapter. I may use the AA bellhousing if I can't find a more affordable option. I'm guessing you needed the hydroboost pedals because of the diesel?

 

[Frankenchevy]

I knew that the input shaft on my 205 is wrong. I think the one on the Blazer transfer case is wrong too. I think AA makes an adapter. I may use the AA bellhousing if I can't find a more affordable option. I'm guessing you needed the hydroboost pedals because of the diesel?

Truck is hydroboost, but no longer diesel.

 

[SquareRoot]

You will need a 32 spline input on your 205 t-case. It can be the short or long version. If its the long, you will need a spacer ring. AA sells it. So if you have to buy a new 32 spline input shaft, buy the short and avoid the $$ of the spacer.

The FIRST thing you need to do is go back to that truck and demand to see the oil that's inside the trans. If you pull the plug and regular gear oil comes out that trans is toast and not worth more the core charge of a new one. I bought one this way and spent $500 for a rebuildable core. Once I got it home and discovered someone else's mistake, I regretted it. Fortunately, I have a new rebuilt one so now I have a spare (once rebuilt).

The bellhousing will not work on a straight axle square. The passenger side throwout bearing arm interferes with the front driveshaft. You can use the internal throwout bearing and make it physically fit. However, internal bearings are a PITA to maintain and if you get a failure of the bearing or hose, that fluid inside the bellhousing will destroy the clutch.

Based on lots of experience, bite the bullet and save yourself the headache and just buy the AA housing after you know the year (Early or Late) of the donor truck (they're different).

I cannot speak to the compatibility of mechanical linkage with the AA bellhousings?

I just switched my auto to manual trans pedal assembly. If your truck is not an 85-87 you will need to find 85-87 pedals to use hydraulic linkage. There are 4 versions, I have one of each: Hydraulic with Vac brakes, Hydraulic with Hydroboost brakes, auto with Vac brakes and auto with Hydroboost. They are all different.

It's very easy to start down this path and go all over the place chasing parts and spending big bucks on things that wont play well with each other. My advice is source the transmission FIRST. That will drive everything down the line. Ask lots of questions before buying anything. It's a chain reaction that gets frustrating very quickly.

 

[SDJunkMan]

Thanks Mike,

I didn't think about checking the oil in the tranny, will be sure to do this when I find one. Like you said, getting the trans is the first step.

I might swing by the u-pull-it this week to see if the tranny is still there, although I doubt it since it's been so long since I first saw it. If it's still there, do I need anything off the truck for the conversion besides the tranny and shifter?

 

[davisw73]

Got the trans & t-case completely disconnected. It's coming out in the morning. Should have the trans in tommorow. Probably driving by next Friday.

I mocked up my clutch and AA hydraulic clutch. That rod they supply is waaaaay long!

It looks like the rod is only going to be about 1.5 inches after the chop. Is yours that short,?

I just got done doing this swap and had the same issue. So I cut it a chunk out of it, welded a coupling nut on one end and threaded the other end so I could adjust the length perfect. Put a jam nut on it and it worked amazing.

 

[Frankenchevy]

How far did you get today @SquareRoot ?

 

[SquareRoot]

How far did you get today @SquareRoot ?

Not much. I work 10 hr days with a 45 minute drive on each end. However, a buddy loaned me a trans jack thingy bob that goes on the end of floor jacks. Feeling much better about putting the trans in, probably on Thursday.

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[SquareRoot]

Check this out, good info:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...sel-th400-np208-m1028-m1008-completed.198869/

Your welcome. Lol

 

[MikeB]

@Frankenchevy

Everything is out. Trans, t-case, cooler lines, kickdown harness, vacuum modulator line, floor shifter....

I hate all the extra crap that makes an automatic an automatic!

Man, you're right about that! I converted a 55 Chevy car from TH350 to a Muncie M20, and couldn't believe how much crap I had left when done. And of course the car probably lost at least 100 lbs net. Ended up selling the TH350, B&M shifter, and remote trans cooler for enough to pay for a new generic clutch kit, freshly surfaced GM flywheel, and a GM aluminum bellhousing. Gotta love Craigslist!

 

[SquareRoot]

New flywheel, clutch and bell housing is in! Of course, afterwards I realized I forget to use the new ARP bolts for the flywheel and clutch. Nothing like doing things twice!

Carefully measured (3 times) and cut the new shifter hole. 4" holesaw worked great until it broke thru and damn near broke my wrist.

Underside cleaned, scuffed, primed, painted and 3m undercoated.

More tommorow.

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[SquareRoot]

I needed a jack for the 4500. Ended up buying this from Harbor freight. I usually hate HF, but this actually works great. Still had to jack the truck up 6 inches to get that beast underneath. Hopefully get it bolted up tommorow. Merry Christmas!

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[SquareRoot]

Where ya at @Feankenchevy?

My trans is in, clutch is s in, hydraulic lines are in and the t-case shifter bezel thingy is in.

I moved my stock 208 t-case bezel back one inch. It clears the trans shift tower and the factory linkage easily adjusts for it.

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[Frankenchevy]

Nice! You drive it?

 

[SquareRoot]

Lol no. I'll get it buttoned up tomorrow. Bunch of small things to do yet. Gotta save my fuel map and settings on the PF4. Auto versus manual will be different. Gots to hookup and bleed the linkage yet.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Awesome, nice job! I’ve been Christmas’ing it up—haven’t done much at home in a few days.