th350 case advise

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HotRodPC

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I wouldn't worry about those fluids. ATF fluid is ATF Fluid. In fact I do use the Walmart Super Tech ATF for my squares and never had a problem at all. It's much cheaper too. $11 a gallon IIRC last time I bought it when every other brand and other places were like $17 - $20 a gallon.

Sounds like you got a good build. Just leave the fluid if the level is correct for now. That cloudiness from the trans gel should end up going away. The cloudiness may very well be from overfilling as you mentioned you had done. Overfilling can cause foaming not to mention, you don't know what type lubes were already in the torque converter. I'd just run it and check the fluid level at 100 miles and 500 miles. By 500 miles I'd expect the fluid to be of good color.
 

Tyger13us

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I had that trans apart so many times,, the band,, the bracket that goes to the accumulator pin would get hung up on the case,, i matched it up with 3 other bands and it wasnt right, it was changed and would hang up on the case webs it sat on,, So i used a redband type with what looks like ceramic meterial,, it looked even better than the new borgwarner band,, which in my opinion was a cheap piece of crap,, it was the same type that came apart the last time...
the welds sucked and were off,, but the redbrand is a good quality band...

i had to tear it down to make some CUSTOM length bolts for the stock plate,, the transfer plate i riped of the trans go plate and cut another plate "thin" from another case plate,, to make a super tough sandwich for the dual feed,, so had to have bolts longer to grab as many threads as possable to hold it all together and so it wouldnt EVER leak from the dual feed channel...

i was kicking my self kinda,, and thinking i should have just done the dual feed mod the other way,, but i didnt want to take the drum apart again,, really didnt want to leave out a ring on the pump ether,, it does give the direct drum some support kinda sorta..

so after making special gade 8 bolts,, and testing,, testing and more testing...
had to shave the tops of the bolts down a bit so the shifter S clip cleared,, the shave another on so it would go into park,, shave down another one cause the selector in the valve body would hit the lowest bolt and wouldnt go in to first,,, alot of enginering went into this build...

and for gods sake didnt want to have to tear it out of the truck and down again to fix **** ups that should have been done right the first time........Thats just me,,, lol.... do it right ONCE...

thats also why i wanted to tear the pan off it and change the fluid and see what kind of surprises i find laying in the bottom of the pan,, to see if everything is oky doky in there...

And i used full torington bearing throughout the whole trans..even on the pump....

Its been over 30 years since i rebuilt a th350,, and with NEW tricks and parts on top of it...

back in to ole daze we just tore um down and put um back together the way they came,, just a few drilled holes and leave out check balls,chuck the wave plates, a wood stick here and a piece of fuel line there and call it good... lol....


I was kinda concerned about the end play .012,,,but i figured it would loosen up some as soon as the trans gel was thinned out from in between EVERYTHING that spun and holding all the bearings in....

I did flush out the t-converter with a input shaft and a front pump stator part,, used a whole gallon of atf,, it looked clean? but may have had some crap stuck in it someplace..??

blew out and flushed the lines and cooler till it was clean,, as i could get it anyway,, even back flushed the lines,, just in case...lol....

The single life? i used the dishwasher to clean everything i could,,

cleaned the case in the bathtub with soap and hot water and a brush,,, blew everything off with air so it wouldnt rust or collect crap......
 

Blue Ox

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You know what Jeff Foxworthy would have to say about that, right?
 

HotRodPC

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For Th350's I honestly like the B&M shift improver kit better than the Trans Go, cuz it's much simpler and achieves all the same things without all the springs. The biggest thing I I like better other than simplicity is the dual feed transfer plate is not integreated to the VB separator plate. When I do rebuilds on a shift improver kit transmission, I just use the same OEM VB gaskets that come in the rebuild kit and use a paper hole punch to make the transfer plate holes in the paper VB gaskets. Works like a charm. No reason to try and source B&M or Transgo VB gaskets. Many times they want you to buy a whole kit. Not this guy !!! I just match up the old gaskets.
 

Tyger13us

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I get what you sayin,, but i only paid 20 bucks for the transgo kit,, not the 90 some buck they want for it at some places not to be mentioned...

the dude had it,, said 20 bucks,, SOLD...

all the mods can be done without any kit,, it was easyer for me at the time.

I dont mind the springs,, it re-programs the valve body to behave,, to me? Better...

i used to get shift kits in lil plastic bags reprograming ones,, um um damn cant think of the name of them.. all try to look um up..

Superior GM TH350 Transmission Shift Correction Kit

ive used alot of these kits back in the day,, there still 23-24 bucks...

ive got one in my 500hp sunbird,, b&m 3000 stall th350... works great...

till it started ripping the car apart....

i was gonna put a cage in to stiffen it up some,, but never go to it..

now im to old to care anymore....

ive got so many trucks,,, not any sunbird parts anymore...lol
 

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