Tbi to carb.

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Jims86

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You think turning up the idle will fix the idle surging problem? It's not an all the time thing. It's only every now and then it will do it.

Maybe a half a turn to see what happens. its a torx 20. before that I would go ahead and do a minimum idle setting to start off with. Too lazy to write it, so I will find one of the other 50 posts where I splained it, and past it here.
You have a tach?

Snagged this one from a buddy on the EFI forums..........

Initial EFI Conversion System Setup for TBI systems, works with TPI/MPFI as well.

I know the first thing guys want to do when hooking up their fuel injection set up is to start it up and hear it run....
Well there are a couple things that need to be done after the installation.

1. Timing
Disconnect the bypass wire and set timing to 0° at idle when warm. Procedure- warm up motor then turn off. Unplug bypass. Start motor. Set timing to 0°. Turn off motor. Reconnect bypass. Unplug ECM to clear fault code.

2. IAC reset/min idle speed- This sets the throttle plate on the throttle body to a specific rpm. It should be set to 100-125 RPM below idle commanded in bin file. At ALDL connector you need to put a jumper between pins A and B of the connector. These are pins A9 (what/blk) and A12 (blk/wht) on the ECM. This puts the ECM into ALDL mode. Turn the key on (not start) and the IAC should drive completely closed. You will normally hear a buzzing from the IAC. If you have the TunerPro running up and running on your laptop, or a Scan Tool you should see the IAC went from 145 to 0. Now unplug the IAC connector. Turn the key off. Remove jumper. Start motor. If the idle is too low you may have to keep it running. On the front drivers side of the throttle body is the adjustment screw. It will probably be behind a silver plug. If so just use a drill bit slowly to drill a hole, not to deep as to damage the torx screw behind it, just enough to use a punch to grab it and remove it. Then use a #20 torx bit to adjust the idle speed to at least 100 rpm less then your warm idle speed in bin. If 600 then set to 500 rpm. You are looking for the lowest consistent idle your motor will do. When set, turn off motor and reconnect the IAC. I try to keep the IAC count to at least 10-20 with the motor warm and idling. Higher number are OK but more air pushing gas past throttle blades on TBI engines is better!

3. TPS Throttle Position Sensor. With the idle set, you need to set the TPS idle voltage. This need to be set to about .54V to .60V
The TPS is on the passengers side and will have 2 screws holding it on. The factory TPS will not have much room in the holes for adjustments so I use a drill bit or file to elongate the holes as needed. Or bend tang on throttle shaft. To adjust, just loosen the screws and twist the TPS. You can monitor the voltage on Pin B of the connector with the key on or at pin C13 of the ECM. You can also see it in TunerPro or Scan tool! Anything away from .54V will also show as a percent of throttle on 1227747 ECM like .2 percent or 1.7 percent...depending on how far from .54 you are. But otherECM/PCM set to 0% when key on. I try to keep the idle setting to within 1 percent do to settings in bin file.

This is also a good time to check your TPS voltage. Once it is set, just watch the voltage as you open the throttle. you should see a steady rise in voltage up to about 4.5-4.8V at WOT-wide open throttle. If it jumps up and down or skips some then you will need to replace it.

4. Fuel pressure The systems calculates the fuel needed based on the initial settings for injector size at a specific pressure. If the pressure changes then the fuel calculations will be off. I recommend checking the feed and return line pressures at the very beginning. This can save a lot of time later. The pressure on TBI should be 13 psi and 43.5 on TPI/MPFI with stock regulaters.
These are feed side pressures and should not change with rpm or load.

The return should be near 0 psi.
 
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72chevy2door

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Hey Jims86 I haven't been on in a couple days got busy doing stuff. Yes I do have a tach, it's an autogage 8000rpm. Man that sounds to be pretty complicated stuff just for an idle fix. I'll try to give it a shot though. I mean worst comes to worst I just undo everything and go carbureted I know I got a lot of money in this and it will cost a considerable amount to go carbed. It's not a drivable truck anyway but I'm trying to get it so it can be my daily driver that's why I wanted to keep tbi. But I will give this a shot. Thanks you Jim for all your help with everything so far.
 

Jims86

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Hey Jims86 I haven't been on in a couple days got busy doing stuff. Yes I do have a tach, it's an autogage 8000rpm. Man that sounds to be pretty complicated stuff just for an idle fix. I'll try to give it a shot though. I mean worst comes to worst I just undo everything and go carbureted I know I got a lot of money in this and it will cost a considerable amount to go carbed. It's not a drivable truck anyway but I'm trying to get it so it can be my daily driver that's why I wanted to keep tbi. But I will give this a shot. Thanks you Jim for all your help with everything so far.

You dont need to worry about the TPS stuff... just the throttle adjustment. Takes less than 10 minutes if the engine is warm.
 

72chevy2door

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Oh ok. I will just pop that plug out and adjust idle. Should I put it at any specific number or just guess and she what it does
 
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Tbi to carb

if you do a lot of off roading with your van going by your screen name then TBI is the way to go simply because carbs do not like Vertical at all and most off roaders prefer fuel injection because of that. If you dont go off road much then a carb is much simpler.
 

72chevy2door

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Carbs are perfect for all my vehicles. I don't do any off roading, just a windy road to work that's about it. But the 72 2 door is because I own a 72 chevelle and on titles it's called a 2door. That's how the user name came up. I couldn't use Heavy Chevy as it was already taken.
 

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