stock height with 31x10.50 wheels

[Mmoore031908]

How much would a set of axles cost? Also Wouldnt the 4 inch lift look funny with the smaller tires? Anyone have pictures of that?

 

[MadOgre]

it all depends on how lucky you are I guess. I read on here somewhere yesterday I guy picked up 2, 1-ton trucks for $450. up here the wreckers want about $150 per axle. I believe a little patience can pay off in your search. ive been looking for a 14 bolt FF for a while, turns out my father in law has exactly what ive been looking for stuffed in some trees in his back yard lol. I never knew the thing was there, any ways its mine now for free.

who cares if its funny looking for a bit. it will save forking out for a new transmission. I have had little tires on mine a few times over the years, and every time guys tell me " I knew you had big tires for that thing"

I mean if you drove it with 28.5s on a 4" inch lift for the rest of your life that might be a little different now. lol

I think with 35s on a 4" lift you can still bend fenders with your tires if you get carried away 4 wheelin. if you articulate your axles to much it'll start rubbing fenders

Im gonna go with corporate 10 bolt in front and 14 bolt FF in the rear 3.73 gears on 33s

 

[Mmoore031908]

That doesnt sound to expensive. Does anyone have pics to see what the smallish tires will look like with 4 inch lift? The transmission is why i wanted to go with the smaller tires.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm assuming you probably have 10 bolts front and rear right now. There a bit harder to find that the 3.08's but there are some used 3.73 10 bolt axle sets for sale time to time for about $300 for both front and rear axles. If you can find a set like that, then you can keep your 3.08 set for spare parts. Being that 10 bolts aren't the strongest, you're likely break an axle or maybe even a carrier from time to time. If you can do that, then go ahead and run those 35's til they wear out then replace them with 33's. 4in and 33's is a fairly common set up without having articulation issues and eating your fenders or tearing up your tires.

This is my K1500 with stock 31x10.50x15's and OEM height without any lift. Just a hair taller than my OEM height C20. I hope to go 4in and 33's at some time.

 

[Mmoore031908]

If I found a rear axle before the front could I put the rear in with 4.10 as long as I don't use the 4x4?

 

[HotRodPC]

If I found a rear axle before the front could I put the rear in with 4.10 as long as I don't use the 4x4?

If you're not running an NP203, yes you can. If running an NP203, NO you can not. If you're running an NP205 or NP208 and get the 4.10 rear axle, I'd go ahead and install it, and to be on the safe side, don't install your front driveshaft. This will also allow you to put the Tcase in 4LO, and your rear axle still work. If you have a Locker or LSD, you'll at least have 2 rear wheels working in 2 Low.

 

[Mmoore031908]

I looked awhile back but I'm pretty sure it's the NP208. What are the difference I the np203,205,208? Is it possible to use the k20 gears and housing but the k10 axle shafts? Just a thought to use the same rims and tires from the k10

 

[HotRodPC]

I looked awhile back but I'm pretty sure it's the NP208. What are the difference I the np203,205,208? Is it possible to use the k20 gears and housing but the k10 axle shafts? Just a thought to use the same rims and tires from the k10

If it's the original Tcase, it should be the NP208. That unit is an aluminum case. The NP203 and NP205 are Cast Iron cases. No, it is NOT possible to use K20 gears and housing and K10 axles. That's the whole point of upgrading to K20. Bigger gears, bigger bearings AND BIGGER AXLES. You can do that on the front though since the K10 and K20 both used 10 bolt fronts. Difference being, K10 is 6 lug, K20 is 8 lug. So what you can do, is upgrade the Rear axle to a K20 axle, then regear your front axle to match the same gear ratio and then convert to 8 lugs hubs and rotors. Usually cheaper just to find a matching set of 3/4 ton axles in 4.10 or 3.73 ratio and swap your axles, use a special conversion U joint in the rear, or have the shaft modified, then rock on.

 

[Mmoore031908]

What's the easiest way to swap the rear To have the special U joint or to modify the drive shaft?

 

[HotRodPC]

What's the easiest way to swap the rear To have the special U joint or to modify the drive shaft?

You may not have a choice but to modify it. If the length needs cut or lengthened depending on the axle you install, then you'll have to mod the driveshaft and if you're doing that may as well have the right U joint end cap put on the shaft so you don't need the special U joint. The special U joints usually cost 3 times a standard U joint.

What's best, is if you're running a long bed, try to get the driveshafts out of the truck the axles came from, then you get to upgrade to heavier stronger driveshafts too. Depending on the trans you have and the donor truck has you have at least a chance it'll bolt in with out mods or special U joints.

 

[bucket]

The rear shaft doesn't have to be the ideal "proper" length, the 208's output is plenty long. Even if the shaft ends up a couple inches too short compared to a stock truck, it will be fine. I ran mine like that for years and beat on it with no troubles. I did finally have a proper shaft built though, my stock rear yoke was slightly bent causing the u-joint not to get greased properly and the conversion joints only lasted about 30K each. I finally had the shaft made rather than eventually killing a few more joints, but it would have worked fine all along if it weren't for the defective yoke.

 

[HotRodPC]

The rear shaft doesn't have to be the ideal "proper" length, the 208's output is plenty long. Even if the shaft ends up a couple inches too short compared to a stock truck, it will be fine. I ran mine like that for years and beat on it with no troubles. I did finally have a proper shaft built though, my stock rear yoke was slightly bent causing the u-joint not to get greased properly and the conversion joints only lasted about 30K each. I finally had the shaft made rather than eventually killing a few more joints, but it would have worked fine all along if it weren't for the defective yoke.

Yup, I'll agree with that. I'm in the same boat on my 2 pc shaft for the C20. You know I put the 3.42 14b SF in it. Now my dshaft is about 2 inches to long from taking the 14b FF out. I do have the dshaft out of the 85, but in needs 3 U joints and a carrier bearing. I don't have the cash, so I'm probably putting the 14b FF 3.73 axle in the C20 next time I get to my dads and pick it up. Then I though, maybe I should just do up the 14b SF dshaft cuz with the length of the splines after the carrier bearing, I bet that 14b SF dshaft will work for both the 14b SF and the 14b FF if and when I swap back. The FF dshaft is so long, I can't even get it in the pinion yoke, let alone having some space to slide.

 

[MadOgre]

I have a 6 inch lift and still running the stock length drive shaft. but only because it doesn't see to much articulation. and I have had 0 problems np 208 and 10 bolt rear

 

[Mmoore031908]

Will the 88-98 axles work with the k10 or will there have to be some modding?

 

[marks86]

Will the 88-98 axles work with the k10 or will there have to be some modding?

88-98 has front indepentant totally different, as for the rear no you cant use that axle, can you kindly explain why you need new axles for your truck when your first question was can I run 31x10.5 im just confused