Stock 350 getting hot, but only on the highway with AC on

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Old60Driver

1983 K20 Silverado
Joined
May 17, 2020
Posts
245
Reaction score
306
Location
Houston
First Name
Michael
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20 Silverado
Engine Size
350
Okay, this makes no sense to me. I can cruise around all day in this heat, city or highway, no problem. Temp gauge is 180° or so consistently. I can turn on the A/C and cruise around city driving, no problem.

Here's the issue. When I hit the highway and turn on the A/C, the temp climbs to 208-210.

Thinking my lower hose might be sucking closed.

Thoughts y'all?
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,263
Reaction score
2,206
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
I worked through a similar issue with my K25 and the final fix was a new aluminum radiator. Due to the 4.10 gears and higher rpm, mine was apparently generating a lot more heat at 65-70 mph. It never overheated, but did run hotter on the highway. It really liked about 40-45 mph a lot better.

Based on my AFR gauge my Quadrajet also runs quite lean at cruise, so that may have been affecting the engine temp.
 

squaredeal91

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Posts
2,534
Reaction score
4,583
Location
Cave junction Oregon
First Name
Greg bush
Truck Year
1991 SB
Truck Model
K30
Engine Size
5.9 Cummins 12 valve
When it happens pull over fast and look at the lower hose. I like your theory on that
 

1STLS1

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2018
Posts
207
Reaction score
505
Location
West Phoenix AZ
First Name
MIchael
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
My bet is the radiator is plugged up or has debris between the condenser and radiator blocking air flow.
Is the shroud in place and any other ducting between the rad and condenser?
Going down the road at 2-2500 rpm requires higher flow thought the radiator to get rid of the heat from the engine, adding the heat from the condenser just takes takes it over the top.
Copper brass radiators end up getting corrosion at the end of the tubes that can restrict flow, a competent radiator shop can "rod" the radiator by removing a side tank and running metal strips through each core tube then resolder the tank on to restore coolant flow.
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,451
Reaction score
3,819
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
Unless it gets hotter, 210 is no big deal.

Make sure all the shrouds and baffles are in place. Make sure the shroud fits snug to the radiator. Make sure any air that enters the grill has to pass thru the radiator on the way out. Make sure there is nothing trapped between the condenser and the radiator. Leaves, pine needles, papers, etc somehow find their way in there. Carefully blow out the radiator and condenser, you will be amazed at the amount of bugs and debris gets caught that you can’t see.
 

fast 99

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Posts
2,029
Reaction score
2,934
Location
Spokane, Washington
First Name
Brian
Truck Year
81,85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
If it has a fan clutch does it work? Fan blades should stick out the rear of the shroud about 1/2 - 1".
 

Old60Driver

1983 K20 Silverado
Joined
May 17, 2020
Posts
245
Reaction score
306
Location
Houston
First Name
Michael
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20 Silverado
Engine Size
350
Thanks for all the tips y'all. Travelling this week, so I'll be taking a look over this coming weekend.

It's crazy though. I can run at 65 mph all day on the highway. Only when I turn the AC on does it heat up.

Gonna check lower hose, and air flow blockages. See if I can see something obvious. I'll let y'all know how it pans out!
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Uhhhh ...

Uhhhhh....

Air in the cooling system...back to CAVITATION. Is it full of water or coolant ?
Air in the cooling system oh wait! I got it.
Fan clutch not unlocking. Bingo! That's it. Bad fan clutch.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Think about it. It should unlock at highway speeds. It doesnt unlock light to light and there is no problem. Doesn't unlock on the road..that's it.
Bet if you look at it hard enough you will find signs of the oil leaked out.
Cooler ambient temps? Non problem.

Take pix ffs and post them here pliz.

**I only install Hayden brand fan clutches but only because they are the best in my experiences.


Don't thank me, buy a bumper sticker from the GMSB.com online store and post the pix, you'll be alright. :waytogo:
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
In addition:

The lower hose is intended to have a spring in it - to keep it from sucking closed. A guy or girl (you) should always re-install that spring in a new hose if necessary, that is why they are there OE. The lower hose "sucking closed" is a problem that should never be a possibility.

I thought I would add that and very recently I have turned off of editing threads and pledge to spend more time in composition to provide a better end user experience from this website. Frankly, you all deserve better of me and it is possible to provide it for you. I really want to help but have enjoyed poking fun at noobs occasionally . Last weekend I reached the breaking point after TEN YEARS in this site :shrug: i've had plenty of lulz and I'm not about to apologize (lol) but I will do better as well all move forward. Thanks to the mods that have allowed me to be a jackass sometimes because I actually add something positive occasionally , I guess. I don't know but this IS the WORLD WIDE WEB.

Is no matter because that's behind us now.
:party33:
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,263
Reaction score
2,206
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
In my experience lower hoses I’ve purchased no longer have a spring inside. The molded design is supposed to prevent collapse.
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,750
Reaction score
18,191
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
If you hear a loud roar, and it ain't your exhaust, at highway speeds then it's the fan clutch.
 

Buck69

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2023
Posts
227
Reaction score
293
Location
Northern British Columbia
First Name
John
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
D30 CUCV
Engine Size
6.2 (removed)
You should also check your belt condition and tension. A bit of a long shot, but an oily or glazed belt will not always screech when it is slipping. The extra load at higher rpm may just be enough to make the difference.
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,917
Reaction score
4,116
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
Do you have a 16 LBS radiator cap? Just ran into this with a friend that put A/C on his '62 Belair. No over heating issues until the A/C was installed/used. Previously he had a 13 LBS cap which was standard for a non-A/C car.

With the new cap, no overheating.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,162
Posts
950,639
Members
36,273
Latest member
dannyphx
Top