Steering correction for 4in lift

[gmbellew]

I bought this truck with the lift on it. Been getting an occasional steering clunk so I started looking around. Based on the photos, it appear I need a drop pitman arm to correct the drag link angle and a new rear drag link because the joint is shot? Or maybe just a new boot on the rear drag link is all I need?

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[K201979]

My lift(4") came with a raised steering arm, wich i feel might be better, but a dropped drag link would probably work. New ends on the link would probably stop the clunk, but it would wear fast because of the bad geometry and the clunk would be back. I would look into a raised arm and new ends for the drag link but a new dropped draglink would probably suffice.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Something needs to change - it don't look right.

 

[gmbellew]

My lift(4") came with a raised steering arm, wich i feel might be better, but a dropped drag link would probably work. New ends on the link would probably stop the clunk, but it would wear fast because of the bad geometry and the clunk would be back. I would look into a raised arm and new ends for the drag link but a new dropped draglink would probably suffice.

i have read some folks complain about bad bump steer with the raised steering arm and the drop pitman arm is what is recommended for 4in lifts (even ORD seems to recommend the drop pitman for 3-4in lifts). did you have any bump steer issues with the raised arm?

 

[skysurfer]

No steering issues for me. Been running a raised steering arm on a 4" lift and 35" tires for 17 years.

 

[K201979]

Yeah. None for me either but if they recommend a dropped link then that will be cheaper on you i think. Just buy a whole new dropped drag link and be done. Instead of a raised arm and new link ends.

 

[77 K20]

The boot in the back wore out and ripped because of the bad angle that 1/2 the drag link is in. It was pretty much piched to death. I'd blame whoever did the last alignment on it. The alignment tech should have loosened up the sleeve that connects the 2 halves of that drag link and then rotate the sleeve to either make the drag link longer or shorter to straighten out your steering wheel. When you do that it often will crank one or both drag link ends to their hard stops. Normally then you grab the drag link ends and make sure both are straight up and down. Then tighten up the sleeve bolts. They didn't do this.

As far as drop pitman arm or raised steering arm- do you have bad bumpsteer now? A stiffer suspension won't have as much. If it is pretty good now then I'd say just go with a drop pitman arm. They are easier typically to replace than messing with the cone washers on the steering arm. You will need to go rent a pitman arm puller from you local autoparts though (unless you are very lucky).

See how both drag link ends are not twisted compared to each other?

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[bucket]

Agree with the above, a drop pitman arm or a raised steering arm will be fine.

Do NOT bother with a dropped drag link, they are just a waste of money. While it will fix the increased angle on the drag link ends, it will do absolutely nothing to fix the steering geometry and it will also make alignments a PITA.

 

[gmbellew]

Thanks everybody. I ordered a drop pitman arm from ORD.

For the record here is why ORD recommends the drop pitman over the raised steering arm for 4in of lift:

"You don’t want the draglink to be level with the ground, you want the draglink angle to match the angle of the arch in the spring. So with a positive arch spring, you actually want there to be a little bit of angle on the draglink. That’s why we recommend the 2” drop pitman arm for 4” of lift."

 

[shiftpro]

Thanks everybody. I ordered a drop pitman arm from ORD.

For the record here is why ORD recommends the drop pitman over the raised steering arm for 4in of lift:

"You don’t want the draglink to be level with the ground, you want the draglink angle to match the angle of the arch in the spring. So with a positive arch spring, you actually want there to be a little bit of angle on the draglink. That’s why we recommend the 2” drop pitman arm for 4” of lift."

Thanks for quoting ORD. I always thought the raised steering arm was stronger than the lowered pitman arm, and obviously harder job to change.
As far as angling the draglink to match the spring... I've heard of this and always wanted to get this verified. So thanks, I feel satiated now.

 

[Gilderbeast]

If you have the money I'd say get rid of the draglink setup and get crossover steering. Its one of the best upgrades I did on my truck along with the XJ steering shaft.