Steering column help needed, where do these parts go?

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mtnmankev

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Wasn't sure if this should be in the steering or interior department, as the steering column is in the inside of the truck for this operation.
I'm working on my steering column, and I'm not sure how to set the gear that actuates the rack for the ignition switch when I put it back together.
Also, the spring that goes next to the little horn contact thingy fell out when I removed the contact, and I can't figure out which way it goes back in. I guess that should be electrical ?
 

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mtnmankev

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I figured out the horn switch spring thingy by trial and error.
The real pain I am having now is reassembling the column and getting the plastic gear to line up properly with the rack.
I may just buy a complete column and say the hell with it.
 

RetroC10Sport

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That's not the horn contact spring, that is for the key-in-ignition buzzer.

As for the gear, it takes a few tries but the big end meshes with the big dip in the slider.
 

mtnmankev

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Thanks for the reply,
I don't have the key buzzer, so I will just eliminate that part.
After much fighting to get the cover back on and sitting flush with screw holes lined up, the gear is off just a tad and the key cylinder won't line up and go back on.
There is a steel collar on the backside of the key cylinder, it can fit either of two ways, and there's a little tab that sticks out. I can't figure out how that goes either.
This project is getting ridiculous.
All I want is for the truck to start in both Park and neutral, and not have to raise up on the shift lever to start it in park. It won't start in neutral now.
And the supposed neutral switch on the truck only controls the backup lights.
 

mtnmankev

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I cannot get the plastic gear to mesh at the proper location on the rack.
And the YouTube vids I watched skip that step.
What am I missing ?
If need be, I will remove the turn signal and dimmer switches, remove the ignition electrical switch, and let the rod loose that runs down from the rack.
Then I can have more freedom of movement of the key housing section.
I'm trying to do this with the column in the truck and a minimum of disassembly.
 

mtnmankev

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I'm going to take the steering column out and do a complete disassembly.
It's the only way I will be able to do this.
Started taking it apart and found this:
The rack mechanism for the ignition switch has a ton of wear on it, and the coil spring that returns the shifter lost a coil.
 

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mtnmankev

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Thanks, I saw that one a couple days ago when I first started the project, but mine is a non tilt. Lots of differences.
And I'm thinking at this point, parts availability will be my biggest issue.
 

MadOgre

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I got to rip in to mine one of these days so I feel for ya.
 

mtnmankev

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I think I'm making progress, I removed the steering column mounts at the firewall and it dropped down so I finally had access to the switch itself. I was able to put the rod from the switch to the rack back together, and after a few tries, found the secret combination to getting the rack itself in its proper position.
The switch had 30 years of dirt and dust on it, so I am betting that is a lot of my no start problem. I adjusted the switch so it has a little more bite into the "start" position. Maybe it'll find a good contact to work with there. I am almost ready to put the column back in its home and test it out before doing a final button up of everything. None of the parts stores in the city had a new switch in stock, so replacing it will have to wait. I gotta have this truck running, I haul my water and depend on it.
Note to others who will have to do this job: be prepared to sprain your wrist when removing the two nuts that hide under the power brake booster. They are bitch to get off. 15mm locknuts with no room for a socket or to swing a wrench.
 

mtnmankev

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Well, I did make one improvement for all my labor, the truck now starts in park without having to lift up on the shifter. The shifter housing still blocks the truck from starting in neutral though.
I will just have to live with this until I can get a complete good column where everything works right, and I will bolt it in.
The neutral switch still activates the backup lights in N or D only.
Toggle switch time for that.
 

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