Starter Wiring

[Stormhawk]

Good morning gents,
I have an odd question. Lately my 83 K20 will struggle to start. The starter sometimes sounds very strong and sometimes struggles to turn the engine or even engage. I went under it yesterday and saw that the wiring from the ignition switch was melted and the terminal for the main power feed from the battery was loose. Turning the nut on the terminal just spins it the whole terminal, it won’t tighten or loosen. I wrapped the melted wires with electrical tape and tightened everything down as best I could and the truck starts great, but I’m concerned about that terminal loosening over time. Is there a trick to removing the nut on the terminal without reminding the entire starter?

 

[Robert Bare]

Replace the starter, repair and insulate wiring.

 

[fast 99]

Once the terminals are corroded or burned only permanent fix is removal for buffing, sanding or replacement. Have to be clean or it creates heat which is what likely how the problem started.

 

[Fitz]

Hey Marine; I know this is an older thread. However, listen to this old 'Nam Vet Marine and learn something. Just like Fast 99 stated, you can buff, sand or replace. However, 99 did not tell you the rest of it. So, here goes....... Remove your starter from the truck. Lay it on your work bench, AKA the tailgate. Remove the 5/16" headed bolt from the bottom terminal on the solenoid. That is the one that has the copper lug coming out of the starter housing. Now remove the two 3/8" headed small bolts, which hold the solenoid to the starter nose piece. Grab the solenoid, and rotate it 90 degree to allow the mounting tang to clear the slot between the nose piece and the starter housing. Next you will remove the two 5/16" machine screws, which hold the black baklite cap on the rear of the solenoid. Do not remove the other two 11/32" nuts on the two smaller studs. Your solenoid may only have one stud. Lift off the black cap. Now, you have stated that the large stud only spins. This is how you fix that. And, this is what Fast 99 was talking about buffing. Now that you have the black cap removed from the solenoid, turn it around and look inside. You'll notice what appears to be a big flat solid copper washer at the top, or 12 o'clock position. Look closely and you'll see pitted and burnt areas on just one half of the copper washer looking part. What you are looking at is the head of the copper stud that the battery cable attaches to. I have many times removed the thin copper nut on the stud on the front side of the black cap. Removed the stud itself, used 600 grit sand paper to "buff" out the pitted areas on the head of the copper stud. That is what Fast 99 was referring to. Clean it up really well. Once you have it buffed and cleaned (smoothed out) as best that you can. Turn it 180 degrees before putting it back into the black cap. Use just a small drop of Blue loctite on the threads of the copper stud RIGHT NEXT to the black cap. Reinstall the thin copper nut onto the stud. And tighten down to 72 INCH POUNDS. Do not over tighten. Doing so, will break the black cap. By turning it 180, you now have the untouched, unburnt area of the head that will make contact with the round copper disc, which has a metal rod and a small spring attached to it. Pull the round copper disc assembly out of the hole in the solenoid. Use the 600 grit sand paper to buff the pitted, burnt areas on the disc. Install it back into the solenoid. Make sure the 11/32" nuts are tight on the one, or both of the small studs if you have more than one. Reinstall the black cap onto the solenoid. Reinstall the solenoid onto the starter. Reinstall the starter on your truck. Hook up the wiring, correctly I might add. Once you have done everything. Fire that puppy up and go create hate and discontent. There Marine, you have learned how to buff out and clean the main power stud connection on your starter. Semper Fi. OUT!!!!!