starter wires routing

[BJedi76]

1986 GMC 1500 Sierra Classic 305” 700R4

I noticed that the positive starter wires are routed between the block and the exhaust manifold.

I feel that this is a rather bad placement for this wire routing.

Am I the only one that feels that the heat created in the small space is detrimental to premature deterioration of the wires?

Has anyone else found a better routing that doesn’t involve exposing the positive wires across a gap, without adding another several feet of wiring?

 

[75gmck25]

The stock setup has a metal protective tube bolted on the back edge of the block, and its intended to protect the wires where they get near the exhaust. IIRC, in that sleeve you should have the charge wire from the alternator and the 12 volt supply wire running to the fuse box (both connected to the large terminal) and the starter activation wire running to the ignition switch.

You could definitely find a different routing that would avoid the exhaust heat better, but it would be longer for the wires to the fuse panel. For example, you could run the wire from the firewall down the top of the valve cover to near the alternator, down the front edge of the engine parallel to the hard fuel line, and then back along the top of the oil pan to the starter.

 

[bucket]

The smaller gauge wires go down the back of the block and through the steel sleeve. The main battery cable runs along the side of the block, kind of along the pan rail area.

Personally, I've got no gripes about the stock routing and it's never caused any reliability issues for me.

 

[bucket]

The stock setup has a metal protective tube bolted on the back edge of the block, and its intended to protect the wires where they get near the exhaust. IIRC, in that sleeve you should have the charge wire from the alternator and the 12 volt supply wire running to the fuse box (both connected to the large terminal) and the starter activation wire running to the ignition switch.

You could definitely find a different routing that would avoid the exhaust heat better, but it would be longer for the wires to the fuse panel. For example, you could run the wire from the firewall down the top of the valve cover to near the alternator, down the front edge of the engine parallel to the hard fuel line, and then back along the top of the oil pan to the starter.

Now that I read this again, I remembered that my '84 had the smaller gauge wires running up to the alternator area and then down an back from there. I didn't like it and ran them the old way when I did the engine swap.

 

[highdesertrange]

actually I like to hot shot those wires. it does take a Ford fender mount starter solenoid and a little more wire. but it deletes all the constant hot wires that run down to the starter. you only have one big cable going to the stater and it's only hot when you are trying to start it. highdesertranger

 

[Lonndog]

highdesertranger...or any other savvy electrical minded. I've been reading the pist for a while now and love the forum. I'm also doing the whole Ford solenoid thing in my 86 GMC as well. I'm glad I did, there was some hackery going on but I have a quick question though. Are all the red 10 gauge wires going from the starter (GM Original) to the Junction Block then into the bulkhead connector are constant hot? (I'm not sure if that's what Unswitched meens) I have the wire diagrams for 83 through 87. I'm just not getting a sense of which is which. Along with a Ford Solenoid I'm inserting a factory GM Maxi-Fuse holder. I would rather use a fuse then a fusible link. I saw a lot of nice cars and trucks through the years burn to the ground...not mine. Anyway could you shed some light. Thanks everybody in advance! Lonndog