Stalls when pressing gas too fast

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

thecantaloupeman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
447
Reaction score
144
Location
US
First Name
Dawson
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
350
The first link to my thread is a picture. I took it apart again to see what went wrong and the rubber plunger came off the pump rod and was just hung in the bottom of the pump well. I wasn't sure that's what was wrong until I took it apart. The pic shows the pump and plunger as two pieces instead of one like came with the rebuild kit.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Yd6ALD52nNGTrsJa7
Yeah my truck does the exact same thing. I'm gonna pull apart the carb later I think and check out what happened.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

thecantaloupeman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
447
Reaction score
144
Location
US
First Name
Dawson
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
350
It's been a month now. ****, or get off the pot!
I think we've already adressed this claim. I am an 18 year old trying to learn to work on my truck and I can't move it once I take the carb apart. I also have an HOA that's gonna get mad if it sits in the same spot for too long. I keep moving it back and forth from my garage but I won't be able to do that once the carb is taken apart. It doesn't fit in the garage either so I can't leave it there. I also have to order the part which may take a while and my truck will have to sit.

I have not been driving it either so I am not putting anyone in danger.
 

Chevyguy

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Posts
186
Reaction score
60
Location
Eugene,OR
First Name
Clayton
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
5.7 Litre
I think we've already adressed this claim. I am an 18 year old trying to learn to work on my truck and I can't move it once I take the carb apart. I also have an HOA that's gonna get mad if it sits in the same spot for too long. I keep moving it back and forth from my garage but I won't be able to do that once the carb is taken apart. It doesn't fit in the garage either so I can't leave it there. I also have to order the part which may take a while and my truck will have to sit.

I have not been driving it either so I am not putting anyone in danger.
Any updates on your carburetor?.

Clayton

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

thecantaloupeman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
447
Reaction score
144
Location
US
First Name
Dawson
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
350
Well the part came in the other day. I was going to start taking it apart, but they are doing roadwork so I can't leave it parked outside while the carb is apart for a few more days. Thanks for checking in!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

thecantaloupeman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
447
Reaction score
144
Location
US
First Name
Dawson
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
350
Any updates on your carburetor?.

Clayton

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
I got the bad boy apart. The plunger (blue rubber piece) had fallen off the Piston and gotten stuck on the lower spring. I put it back on, but it seems very loosely fit. My replacement accelerator pump has a much better design with the spring under the rubber piece, and it stays on much better, plus it's ethanol resistant, which the original assembly isn't.

Right now I have it put back together, but the pump arm pin is pounded out too far, and it is flush with the choke wall. I can't fit a screwdriver or anything in between it to push it back towards the accelerator pump arm. After that I should be in business. This has basically been my only issue the whole time. Very easy fix, and it took about 2 hours even though I messed around a bit in between. I totally worked myself up for nothing. And I saved 115$ because that's what the shop wanted to do this fix. Definitely worth it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,451
Reaction score
3,819
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
Use a pair of side cutters to LIGHTLY grip the roll pin, then pry it away from the choke bore. The idea is to grip it just hard enough that it won’t slip thru the jaws, but not cut it or raise a burr that will make it harder to push it in
 

thecantaloupeman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
447
Reaction score
144
Location
US
First Name
Dawson
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
350
Use a pair of side cutters to LIGHTLY grip the roll pin, then pry it away from the choke bore. The idea is to grip it just hard enough that it won’t slip thru the jaws, but not cut it or raise a burr that will make it harder to push it in
I tried rubber bands around the pin and pliers, then a really tiny screwdriver and I finally got it out enough to start paying with bigger and bigger screwdrivers. Finally got it. Reassembled the carb and the new pump works perfectly. It doesn't stall at all any more. Just like it was before! It really feels good to have fixed that myself!

On the other hand though, I wanted to drive it to a car show tomorrow, and wanted to fix the little leak that was breaking out near the bigger nut for the fuel filter. This started when I changed the fuel filter before. It wasn't all that bad, but before I drove it again I wanted to address it. I thought I just cross threaded the nuts, so I took them out and rethreaded them. I thought I threaded them pretty good, but the leak got even worse and now I don't think it's safe to drive.

Sucks that once I fix one problem I created another, or make another one bigger. I'm going to go out tomorrow really early and see if I can get it to stop. Maybe I will have time to still go.

Thanks for everyone's help throughout this whole thing though. I loved fixing that accelerator pump and I feel great that I fixed it myself without paying a shop to do it for me.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Chevyguy

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Posts
186
Reaction score
60
Location
Eugene,OR
First Name
Clayton
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
5.7 Litre
I got the bad boy apart. The plunger (blue rubber piece) had fallen off the Piston and gotten stuck on the lower spring. I put it back on, but it seems very loosely fit. My replacement accelerator pump has a much better design with the spring under the rubber piece, and it stays on much better, plus it's ethanol resistant, which the original assembly isn't.

Right now I have it put back together, but the pump arm pin is pounded out too far, and it is flush with the choke wall. I can't fit a screwdriver or anything in between it to push it back towards the accelerator pump arm. After that I should be in business. This has basically been my only issue the whole time. Very easy fix, and it took about 2 hours even though I messed around a bit in between. I totally worked myself up for nothing. And I saved 115$ because that's what the shop wanted to do this fix. Definitely worth it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I knew you could do it, congrat's. We all have been where you are, and we still go there when we run into something we haven't dealt with before. I just dealt with a leaking heater core, and a bad vacuum line on my defroster/floor vents. It's all part of owning an older truck that is an American Classic. I've owned mine for 30 years.

Clayton

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

Chevyguy

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Posts
186
Reaction score
60
Location
Eugene,OR
First Name
Clayton
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
5.7 Litre
Did you get the fuel leak fixed?.

Clayton

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

thecantaloupeman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
447
Reaction score
144
Location
US
First Name
Dawson
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
350
Did you get the fuel leak fixed?.

Clayton

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
I made it better and it doesn't seem to leak as much, but it was still there. After a while of the engine running it stopped. Maybe it fixed itself somehow. I'm not sure.

The battery is next on my list though, because it is from 2014 and just died. I'm going to the auto parts store tomorrow to get a battery. I'm either getting an optima red top or Napa legend battery. Not totally sure yet.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Nonstop

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2014
Posts
775
Reaction score
2,421
Location
Ca
First Name
Nick
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K2500
Engine Size
454
Congratulations, it was good to see you were persistent. Sorry for doubting you could do it! Feels great when you are able to fix it yourself, especially when people (like me) are telling you to have someone else more experienced fix it. May I recommend investigating the Optima a little more? I ran one years ago and it was okay. I heard their quality has dropped though. I also understand they need a specific battery charger if you need to charge it.
 

thecantaloupeman

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
447
Reaction score
144
Location
US
First Name
Dawson
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
350
Congratulations, it was good to see you were persistent. Sorry for doubting you could do it! Feels great when you are able to fix it yourself, especially when people (like me) are telling you to have someone else more experienced fix it. May I recommend investigating the Optima a little more? I ran one years ago and it was okay. I heard their quality has dropped though. I also understand they need a specific battery charger if you need to charge it.
Thank you! I wish I didn't work myself up so much. It really was super easy and my only difficulty was the stupid pin. That was my fault though for pounding it out too far. Everything I thought would be hard ended up being really simple. The only tool I needed was a flathead and a 13mm socket. I'm glad I ended up doing it on the car because it was a lot more simple to take the top off than taking the whole carb off. Real easy 100$ saved right there. Too bad that 100$ is now going towards a new battery. I just noticed today that it was a 2014 battery. So it wasn't as new as I thought, and I guess it is time for a new one anyway.

I actually wanted an optima at first because they look super cool and have such good starting power (800 something CCA) but the red top apparently is only good for starting and not great for reserve capacity. The yellow top is too expensive for me, plus the factory was moved to mexico. I watched a few videos about optima saying not so great things. I'm sure I'd be fine with one if I got it, but I think I'm going to stick with either interstate or NAPA. The NAPA is cool because they sponsor the car show I wanted to go to. I'm going to go next year so that might be cool. But both batteries are about 150$ bucks which is a great price for me.
 

Chevyguy

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Posts
186
Reaction score
60
Location
Eugene,OR
First Name
Clayton
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
5.7 Litre
I made it better and it doesn't seem to leak as much, but it was still there. After a while of the engine running it stopped. Maybe it fixed itself somehow. I'm not sure.

The battery is next on my list though, because it is from 2014 and just died. I'm going to the auto parts store tomorrow to get a battery. I'm either getting an optima red top or Napa legend battery. Not totally sure yet.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Walmart batteries are good too. They are made by Johnson Controls. They make AC Delco, and Motorcraft batteries.

Clayton

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

Chevyguy

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Posts
186
Reaction score
60
Location
Eugene,OR
First Name
Clayton
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V20
Engine Size
5.7 Litre
Thank you! I wish I didn't work myself up so much. It really was super easy and my only difficulty was the stupid pin. That was my fault though for pounding it out too far. Everything I thought would be hard ended up being really simple. The only tool I needed was a flathead and a 13mm socket. I'm glad I ended up doing it on the car because it was a lot more simple to take the top off than taking the whole carb off. Real easy 100$ saved right there. Too bad that 100$ is now going towards a new battery. I just noticed today that it was a 2014 battery. So it wasn't as new as I thought, and I guess it is time for a new one anyway.

I actually wanted an optima at first because they look super cool and have such good starting power (800 something CCA) but the red top apparently is only good for starting and not great for reserve capacity. The yellow top is too expensive for me, plus the factory was moved to mexico. I watched a few videos about optima saying not so great things. I'm sure I'd be fine with one if I got it, but I think I'm going to stick with either interstate or NAPA. The NAPA is cool because they sponsor the car show I wanted to go to. I'm going to go next year so that might be cool. But both batteries are about 150$ bucks which is a great price for me.
If you can try to go through a battery dealer who rotates their stock often. NAPA batteries are ok since Exide redid their internal plate design to help with battery discharge. I like Interstate but actually switched back to Exide last November because I got a lower price and a 3 year free replacement. It's been a good battery so far. Interstate batteries are made by Johnson Controls.

Clayton

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,171
Posts
950,814
Members
36,286
Latest member
goodwrenchca
Top