SOLVED - Power Window - Pass window won't work from drivers side

[Scott91370]

Passenger side power window worked great until I went to put my door panels on.
It will go up and down with the switch on the passenger door.
It will go up but not down with the driver's side switch.

Anybody know which wire(s) I should check? I'd look at the diagram but on my phone it's either too small or gets blurry when I zoom in.


THANKS!

 

[Tank6x2]

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[gmbellew]

I'd heavily suspect the driver door master switch to be the issue. but I'd confirm by going through the diagnostic in the wiring manual to be sure before you buy a new switch.

 

[Old77]

I'd heavily suspect the driver door master switch to be the issue. but I'd confirm by going through the diagnostic in the wiring manual to be sure before you buy a new switch.

100% agree. That driver side switch controls the group essentially. If it’s not right for some reason it messes with them all

 

[Scott91370]

I'm hoping for the switch being the issue. I haven't had time to find my extra switch but will update when I find the problem.

 

[Ricko1966]

I've had the wires break in the insulation right behind the plastic block that plugs on the switch.I f that's the case crimp on a small eyelet connector slip it over the correct pin on the switch and put the plastic connector back in place it will hold the eyelet in place.

 

[Scott91370]

We're back...

The problem is not the switch. I was able to grab a brand new one (which was needed anyway since the original was scratched) and still the same issue.

Now to look at Tank's wiring diagram to find the wire from driver to passenger side that controls down.

I do have one other question - is the ground provided through the body of the window motor and the positive/power provided through the switch?

One thing I did do and I didn't mention (that is probably important) was the relay upgrade. It is very possible I didn't get a good crimp on a wire and caused this issue.

 

[wlwarnke]

Not sure what year you’re working on, but I assume they’re all the same.

The drivers door has the heavier ground wire. The passenger door, (usually the slower to drive), has the pass through 2 switches (one in each door) to get to ground.

At rest, both pins on the motors are grounded. When up/down is pressed, only 1 pin get switched from ground to +12.

Here is how I added relays for mine. Note I only added a new ground to the passenger door. The power to both doors and the ground to the drivers door was plenty sufficient once connections were cleaned up.

 

[Scott91370]

I think my issue is in the connector on the driver's side. I just haven't had a chance to pull it apart. Once I do I will report back.

 

[Scott91370]

Finally took the time and found my issues.

Pulled the door panels from both sides and found that when I installed them the last time one wire from each plug (from harness to the plastic plug the switches plug in to) had broken.
Another $60 later and everything is working like a champ!!