Solid Motor Mounts

[82chevy350]

Hey guys im trying to find some solid motor mounts that are direct bolt in on my 1982 c10 2wd sbc. I am having no luck finding all 4 mounts. Does anyone on here know which ones will work or make them and sell them?

 

[HotRodPC]

hmm, Summit is usually the place for those. Are you sure you want solid mounts anyway??? Do you have a purpose for needing them? You could always keep what you have and run a chain on each side too if the motor is getting away from you. That will also keep most of the vibration down to a degree. Much less than the solid mounts anyway. I've been in some with solid motor and trans mounts that would rattle your teeth loose.

 

[Mr Clean]

Yeah I was going to ask Why do you want solid motor mounts. I have been in a rock crawler with solid motor mounts, IT SUCKED!

 

[gpmorgan]

Energy Suspension has polyurethane mounts that are almost like solid mounts without any vibration. I installed one of their mount kits on my ride and have been pleased with them.

 

[82chevy350]

Cracked bell housing plus I want my truck to shake lol

 

[82chevy350]

Its a toy not a daily street/strip

 

[HotRodPC]

Hey gp..

With the clamshell design and bolt that goes all the way thru, the motor can't go to far anyway. Back in the race days when we used solid mounts was when it had just the one big bolt that came in from the back side into the rubber and if the rubber gave up you can actually lift the motor high enough to start bending linkages, hanging up throttles at WOT and things of that nature. So if we didn't have solid mounts, we chained it down on the left side. (if I remember right, going forward lifts the left side). Anyway, we chained down the side that would lift going forward. Sometimes just heating up the tires, lose a motor mount and the metal solid fan hitting the metal fan shroud make the most god awful racket you ever did hear.

 

[bucket]

Hey gp..

With the clamshell design and bolt that goes all the way thru, the motor can't go to far anyway. Back in the race days when we used solid mounts was when it had just the one big bolt that came in from the back side into the rubber and if the rubber gave up you can actually lift the motor high enough to start bending linkages, hanging up throttles at WOT and things of that nature. So if we didn't have solid mounts, we chained it down on the left side. (if I remember right, going forward lifts the left side). Anyway, we chained down the side that would lift going forward. Sometimes just heating up the tires, lose a motor mount and the metal solid fan hitting the metal fan shroud make the most god awful racket you ever did hear.

Yeah, it's the left side. I broke that mount on my '69 and luckily that car already had the GM safety cable. I also broke the mount in my 4.3 S10 (same style of mount, not clamshell), that would cause the brake booster hose to get yanked out during a burnout. It also made it nearly impossible to hit 3rd when you were really getting after it. So I used a tailgate cable and tied the motor to the upper control arm just like my Impala, it worked fantastic. I bought mounts but never even put them on because the cable worked perfect.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yeah, it's the left side. I broke that mount on my '69 and luckily that car already had the GM safety cable. I also broke the mount in my 4.3 S10 (same style of mount, not clamshell), that would cause the brake booster hose to get yanked out during a burnout. It also made it nearly impossible to hit 3rd when you were really getting after it. So I used a tailgate cable and tied the motor to the upper control arm just like my Impala, it worked fantastic. I bought mounts but never even put them on because the cable worked perfect.

Exaclty. Using a chain and having a tad bit of slack due to the size of links, it still allowed the motor to lift maybe close to an inch but that's all it was going to get and no more once it got all the slack out of the chain. Believe it or not, it's important when racing to know what the motor is going to do. That torque does transfer to the right rear tire when it's trying to lift on the right front and does help on launch. Plymouth Duster and Cuda, Dodge Demon Challenger and Dart were the worst for it, but the race buddies had rippled floor pans from engine torque on those weak ass chassis. We used to make fun of one buddies car cuz it was twisted so bad it never would sit right. We grab the left rear and act we were teeter tottering it on the left front and right rear tires. Damn near could too. He was running 440's with Tunnel Ram, dual quads and maybe a hint of spray. His ******* would put a new USED motor in it about every other week. He'd get a junkyard motor, install cam, his heads, tunnel ram and adders, and run it till it blew. Usually lucky to get 10 good passes out of it.

 

[82chevy350]

Im thinking of going prothane haha. I installed 4.10s in the rear and made a "lincoln" locker for now. I broke my bellhousing and bent my shifter linkage. Had a bad motor mount on passenger side like literally flopping.

 

[HotRodPC]

So then you were doing some hot dogging in Reverse, to pull up on the passenger side. You shouldn't do that anyway Dawg. You do realize there is a drive side and a coast side to your ring and pinion right??? Going forward to do a burnout, you're on the meaty part of the gear. Doing one in reverse, you're on the thin side of the gear teeth which is the coast side. Burnouts in reverse are not good for several reasons.

 

[82chevy350]

Nah i dont do reverse burnouts i know better than that lol

 

[Driver4r]

Here my .02 . Dont go solid, it will litterally vibrate the bolts loose on your vehicle after a litttle while. Solid mounts are mostly stricly meant for Racing. And if your truly racing, theres the chance your gonna break ****, and hey, the bolts are already loose for you XD.

Just go rubber or poly..........

 

[HotRodPC]

Yep, go rubber, poly whatever you choose and then chain or cable with a touch of slack. Solids are rougher in more ways than 1. Maybe not as bad if your not loping off the mounts, and don't have a **** ton of horsepower, but yeah really I wouldn't go solid. Even in a rock crawler, I'd probably go with OEM and chain or cable. If it's the right side that went bad, and you didn't do any reverse burnouts, then the thing just deteriorated and went bad anyway. Maybe an oil leak, battery acid, coolant, or something got to it. Tough break to tear up so much **** for a bad motor mount, but it damn sure happens.

 

[Driver4r]

Yep, go rubber, poly whatever you choose and then chain or cable with a touch of slack. Solids are rougher in more ways than 1. Maybe not as bad if your not loping off the mounts, and don't have a **** ton of horsepower, but yeah really I wouldn't go solid. Even in a rock crawler, I'd probably go with OEM and chain or cable. If it's the right side that went bad, and you didn't do any reverse burnouts, then the thing just deteriorated and went bad anyway. Maybe an oil leak, battery acid, coolant, or something got to it. Tough break to tear up so much **** for a bad motor mount, but it damn sure happens.

Exspecially when GM had the Big recall back in the late 60's because the rubber would tear. Then they added the factory cables.

I have seen cases where a car had so much HP under the hood that it sheered off the later mount bolt. That was a surprise to see that. But then again, that would take some pretty good torque.